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So it sounds like a recently built house. http://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/index.jsp?state=Minnesota You probably do have 2" x 2'(or 4') perimeter insulation under the slab, so a sill sealer would work. IMHO, insulate the wood rims before building the wall- unless you have 2" FB...

IMHO, don't use any wet wood as you want to cover it before it can totally dry out... and tar paper is not recommended under a bottom plate- it is from 5-30 perms, use some foil-faced 1/2" rigid foam board for an air/water/thermal break to the studs- they may let you use non-pt wood (full of...

Research your choices on the web...

"If you don't know enough to choose whose BS to believe the engineer is the only way to go. "------ I agree with that. Especially just getting opinions from some of your sources rather than facts (with links to back them up) to help find the source of your problems. Being there goes a loooong...

The dark ones look like chestnut shells that squirrels have already eaten out, possibly washed in from the exterior by the incoming water flow, same with the white (mold) ones. Did the rock chunk break the PVC pipe (drain line; 1-1/2-2") or is that your incoming water supply (1-1/4")? Where is...

"You can lift 8 ft at a time by just putting studs under each rafter to the floor, 1/4 inch to long hammer them into place "------------------- may want them under the lower top plate near the rafter so you don't rip the wood out of the rafter (only toe-nailed) if you forgot an anchor bolt...

You may also need to ground the dishwasher/plug... I ran my DW across from the sink (6' away) with the standard drain hose under the floor, in the crawlspace to hook it at the garbage disposal outlet built for that purpose, then a loop or vent at sink, check local AHJ for that. The water shut...

I'm guessing they made the weeps at the bottom, right on the brick ledge in the concrete. As you would be digging to that level to paint, add some membrane in front for drainage off the brick face, with an impervious membrane below the weeps. You don't want to block the weeps- if any are...

May require a trim board on each side to makeup the difference. Or install a custom made narrow cookie sheet unit cabinet in corner. The drain/hot wtr supply usually go through the rear sides of the other cabinets... DW is one of the last units to install. Gary PS don't forget to remove the...

You are correct, I hope there are "weep" holes to let moisture out as I don't see any in the picture with green algae growing on the mortar joints between bricks. As per diagram drawing, the weep holes should be visible above grade and every 16" or ? on center spacing to help dry the wall as it...

I think you need to add the rafter ties back in at Code requirements for spacing and amount of nails at that connection. You need them OR change your ridge BOARD to a structural ridge BEAM...

------Welcome to the forums!---------- You are correct; local problem, the solution; http://www.advancedenergy.org/portal/crawl_spaces/pdfs/Builder%20Online%20Article%20-%202005.pdf Save energy...

--Welcome to the forums!------ First I thought is was a shrinkage crack until you showed the brick cracked also... appears to be a "settlement" crack, especially if the crack extends vertically as shown--- "The house is built on a raised slab atop some kind of fill,"---- could easily be the...

--------Welcome to the forums!----------------- Don't shoot the messenger...; http://buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-9910-wood-durability/view No vinyl wallpaper or big mirrors (without air gap) on the exterior walls if you run an AC at...

Your code is lacking the height to the egress opening; http://www.municipalaffairs.alberta.ca/documents/ss/STANDATA/building/BedroomWindowFAQ06.pdf Check with your local AHJ for more info. Some jurisdictions are aware of this problem- and others; built-in furniture added, window swing...

If they are "cut" stringers (notched for treads/risers), 3 are required per code, which you would want inspected as for your liability when you change places with your renters upstairs. If in US, under Prescriptive Codes, 10" is required for minimum tread depth and no nosing IF open risers...

It's pretty easy to research stucco; cups- up; http://www.mnlath-plaster.com/library/documents/LathInspectionResourceManualUpdate2009.pdf 2 layers of tar paper;http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-029-stucco-woes-the-perfect-storm More on lath as that is where the most can go...

Soooo, exactly what I said in post #3... use caulking between the extension and original jamb for a good moisture seal (in the video) and low expanding canned foam around the inside window wood/framing as the link read if you read page 123, the link should have opened there for 8 tested ways to...

That unit could have the old 3" ducting exhaust, if so- may want to replace the ducting as well. Use straight smooth wall for less condensation - better air flow than flex pipe. Be sure to insulate/vapor barrier with some flex ducting over the metal pipe, tape all joints of both duct materials...

http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/pdf/tech%20data/TB-R-value%20claims%20of%20Poly.pdf pp.40,41; http://www.floridabuilding.org/fbc/publications/AtticVentReportFinal.pdf Where are your rafter ties at 48"oc? Are those 2x10 rafters, able to leave exposed to fire, similar to floors, check local...