Ask Doors Done Right - Answers to Questions About Your Garage Door Or Opener

Discussion in 'Garage & Workshop Forum' started by doorsdoneright, May 28, 2016.

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  1. May 28, 2016 #1

    doorsdoneright

    doorsdoneright

    doorsdoneright

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    Hi everyone,

    My name is Scott. I own a garage door and opener installation and repair business in New Jersey. I have twenty seven years of experience and have some pretty extensive knowledge about all the ins and outs of installing and repairing doors and openers.

    I'm new to this forum, but I am happy to help out where I can.

    If you have a question, feel free to reach out. I am subscribed to this thread, so this is the best place to ask. I'll get back to you ASAP.

    Scott
     
  2. May 28, 2016 #2

    havasu

    havasu

    havasu

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    Thank you for your help Scott. I know many, like myself could sure use someone with knowledge when it comes to garage doors.


    1) Your first question... I purchased my house a year ago, and it came with a new, cheap, roll up door. Do they make universal insulated interior garage door panels that I could add for soundproofing and insulation, of would I just be better off tossing this cheap door and purchasing one that already has the insulated panel?

    I've seen the styrofoam panels that you cut and glue, but found that to be unsightly and seems the little styrofoam balls are always breaking off, so I want to avoid this.
     
  3. May 28, 2016 #3
    I have a Genie, shaft drive opener that sounds like a 747 taking off. I tried lubing the shaft drive and rollers. I can disconnect the door and it moves freely. I tried using rubber washers on the mounting bracket. Is there anything I can do to lower the noise or do I hope it soon fails so I can replace it?

    View attachment image.jpg
     
  4. May 28, 2016 #4

    doorsdoneright

    doorsdoneright

    doorsdoneright

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    Havasu,

    Yes, you can certainly do that, and you should get some benefit out of it, but I generally find they end up being a poor fit. With most manufacturers the foam panels are put into place while the door is being put together, so they tuck under the end caps. You won't really be able to do that with the foam insulation kits. You'll just be tucking under the upper and lower rails. It probably won't look so pretty and will provide incomplete benefits.

    If you do give it a try, I would use the styrofoam-with-vinyl backer type. The vinyl backer on the styrofoam kits reduces breakdown of the styrofoam to some extent. I have gone into houses where people used the big blanket-type kits and the doors weighed a ton - not good for safety and not good for your opener. You would probably also need to replace your springs to counter-balance the door properly, which might be tricky to get just right. Those blanket-type insulation kits also make it impossible to do any work on the door, such as remove hinges to replace rollers, etc.

    If it's in your budget, the best way to go would be to get a new 3-layer door - steel + insulation + steel. They cost only a little more than 2-layer doors but are leagues better as far as strength and durability. Depending on how much insulation you want, most brands provide you with these four 3-layer construction options:
    1-3/8" with polystyrene insulation: r-value = about 6.5 (a big jump up from your current r = 0)
    2" with polystyrene insulation: r-value = about 9
    1-3/8" with polyurethane insulation: r-value = about 13
    2" with polyurethane insulation: r-value = about 18

    In my area, a new 8' x 7' 3-layer steel raised panel door would start at around $750 installed. Windows with designs would add about $150.

    Hopefully that helps.
     
  5. May 28, 2016 #5

    doorsdoneright

    doorsdoneright

    doorsdoneright

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    Those screw drives are supposed to be lubed with some sort of low-temperature grease, such as white lithium grease. If you're using something lighter (WD-40, silicone spray or oil), you might not lose the rattling of the screw in the casing. Anything heavier and the screw might seize up in cold weather.

    If you buy a tube (not a spray can) of white lithium grease and run a bead down the full length of the screw and then run it, it should make a huge difference in the noise level.

    It might get a little messy, but shouldn't be too bad.

    Home Depot's white lithium grease is very liquidy and doesn't allow you to get a good bead to stick to the screw, so if you can find it somewhere else, I would recommend that.
     
  6. May 28, 2016 #6
    Thanks, I'll give that a try. I did use grease from my grease gun a long time ago, I think I'll pull the shaft out, clean it, use the white grease and see if that helps.
     
  7. Sep 15, 2016 #7
    I have a garage door recently repaired by http://www.dooronthego.ca/. I had few difficulties opening it. It was better after the repair. Recently I again felt difficulties opening it. Do you know the reason behind constant door jamming? How shall I overcome this??
     
  8. Nov 3, 2018 #8

    Ron Carter

    Ron Carter

    Ron Carter

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    Hi, I have a 30 year old one piece steel sheet metal door, double with, that’s on its last leg. Need to replace this door. My garage has extreme restricted head room of about 4”. Had a sectional door company give me an estimate and they want to reduce the door height 6” to get more headroom. Unfortunately this puts the garage door rail in front of my fuse panel and side entry door. Does anyone make a one piece door anymore that I could replace this one with? Anyone in middle TN?
     
  9. Nov 8, 2018 #9

    havasu

    havasu

    havasu

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    Don't reduce the door height. They make low slung brackets. I had one installed at my old house but I kept the door height maximum, and when all mounted was only 4-5" off the ceiling.
     

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