Base for storage shed

[Pcnerd]

Looking to start another project in the future. I want to build a 120 sq ft storage shed.

15x8 (haven't determined height yet but city allow 15 ft max on height. ).

I have a driveway behind the iron gate that goes 34.5 ft long x 12.5 ft wide. Planning the end of the driveway as a placement. I want to be able to roll my boat trailer into the shed, so my base should be flat.

Option 1 - I am thinking of just using the slab currently on the driveway. Just use treated wood for the bottom plate.

Option 2 - use 1x1 sq ft paver for a base, but I will have a hard time rolling my trailer up unless I have a on ramp slope.

Any better ideas?


PCNerd.

 

[slownsteady]

The current slab sounds like a good idea. you could put a row of blocks around the perimeter and start your wall on that, but it would prob still need to be PT.

 

[tractng]

The current slab sounds like a good idea. you could put a row of blocks around the perimeter and start your wall on that, but it would prob still need to be PT.

I was thinking the same. Line up bricks around the perimeter and wall sits on top. Every 4ft or so run a bolt down to the slab to keep it from moving. Still a concern that water will go and cause issues.

 

[slownsteady]

You prob already know whether it puddles on that spot now. You could put in a floor drain, or just some weep holes in the blocks (easier). But as long as the walls shed water well, there should be "no problemo".

(make sure to leave room for the trailer too!)

 

[tractng]

You prob already know whether it puddles on that spot now. You could put in a floor drain, or just some weep holes in the blocks (easier). But as long as the walls shed water well, there should be "no problemo".

(make sure to leave room for the trailer too!)

Are you talking about this block?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oldcastle-16-in-x-8-in-x-8-in-Concrete-Block-30161345/100350252

I am thinking of using one of these for perimeter and wall sits on them.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Angelus-...-in-Concrete-Top-Cap-062H0190100100/100322582

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-8-in-x-2-1-4-in-x-4-in-Clay-Brick-RED0126MCO/100323015

 

[nealtw]

The 8" high blocks would be best as they would keep the wood products away from the ground.

 

[slownsteady]

I wasn't being specific. But the "cinder blocks" (CMUs?) is pretty much what i had in mind. Be careful with the masonry materials that you get at the big box. I have seen landscape blocks crumble in normal use. I'm not saying that they're all bad, but after you build something, it's a lot harder to replace.

 

[Pcnerd]

The 8" high blocks would be best as they would keep the wood products away from the ground.

If that high, I don't want to cut my current driveway slab to bury the block. I could probably have them sit on the slab and connect each with mortar and every 4 ft have a rod that goes down into the driveway slab.

 

[slownsteady]

I wouldn't dig down either, if I could avoid it. But yes, you will have to secure the blocks some way.

 

[Snoonyb]

I wouldn't dig down either, if I could avoid it. But yes, you will have to secure the blocks some way.

So, when is ANYBODY, going to ask what the walls and roof material are going to be.

Because while many municipalities allow this type of non-occupancy structures, they also require them to be built too minimum building standards.

Besides which, any structure over 6' in height is governed by wind forces.

 

[slownsteady]

So, when is ANYBODY, going to ask what the walls and roof material are going to be.

Because while many municipalities allow this type of non-occupancy structures, they also require them to be built too minimum building standards.

Besides which, any structure over 6' in height is governed by wind forces.

OP didn't ask for advice on that.

 

[Pcnerd]

So, when is ANYBODY, going to ask what the walls and roof material are going to be.

Because while many municipalities allow this type of non-occupancy structures, they also require them to be built too minimum building standards.

Besides which, any structure over 6' in height is governed by wind forces.

I inquired with city inspector and been told no permit required under 120 sq. ft.. I will build using normal wall/roof requirements.

 

[Snoonyb]

I inquired with city inspector and been told no permit required under 120 sq. ft.. I will build using normal wall/roof requirements.

So, what will those be?

Because what you have received so far, is a typical support for hardware store, backyard, lightweight, steel, storage shed.

 

[bud16415]

8x15 x 15height that’s pretty tall for a shed.

If I was going to build that as a storage shed for a boat I think I would build it as a pole barn structure.

 

[Pcnerd]

8x15 x 15height that’s pretty tall for a shed.

If I was going to build that as a storage shed for a boat I think I would build it as a pole barn structure.

Probably looking at 7 ft height wall and a few more feet for the roof (Gable style).
I want to keep it as simple as possible.

 

[nealtw]

So it's a shed with an open end like a garage. Making it stiiff enough to resist wind will require a foundation of some kind. But you talked about rolling the boat up a ramp so you are thinking a floor. I think most of us were thing the driveway would be the floor.
Nothing is out of the question but we should all get on the same page.

 

[Snoonyb]

Probably looking at 7 ft height wall and a few more feet for the roof (Gable style).
I want to keep it as simple as possible.

2 x 3's, 2 x 4's, steel studs?

What's the exterior wall covering, or is it open and what roofing material?

 

[tractng]

Ok here are the specifics.


1) concrete top cap (8x2x16) on the driveway slab around the perimeters of the shed. Then the 7ft wall will be on these top cap. Anchor bolts every 4 ft (bottom plate through concrete cap and into the slab). The inside of the shed will be the driveway slab.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Angelus-...-in-Concrete-Top-Cap-082H0190100100/100322590


2) Wall and rafter will be 2x4 studs with 16" OC. Add a few joists if needed.


3) Hardie back sidings onto stud. Not sure if I should add additional OSB.


4) OSB board for roof, black paper, shingles


5) Roll up doors, side small window, roof vent, skylight


6) 8x15 with 7ft wall with gable style roof (another 2-3 ft).

Budget $1200 plus a few beers

The side driveway was poured last year, 4" inch thick.

 

[Snoonyb]

Ok here are the specifics.


1) concrete top cap (8x2x16) on the driveway slab around the perimeters of the shed. Then the 7ft wall will be on these top cap. Anchor bolts every 4 ft (bottom plate through concrete cap and into the slab). The inside of the shed will be the driveway slab.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Angelus-...-in-Concrete-Top-Cap-082H0190100100/100322590


2) Wall and rafter will be 2x4 studs with 16" OC. Add a few joists if needed.


3) Hardie back sidings onto stud. Not sure if I should add additional OSB.


4) OSB board for roof, black paper, shingles


5) Roll up doors, side small window, roof vent, skylight


6) 8x15 with 7ft wall with gable style roof (another 2-3 ft).

Budget $1200 plus a few beers

The side driveway was poured last year, 4" inch thick.

There are 3 methods which will decrees the weight of the wall;
1. Use 2 x 3's.

2. Skip the OSB and use let-in braces or framing straps.

3. Use 2-5/8", 20ga. steel studs.

 

[slownsteady]

If the slab is concrete, you can use landscape adhesive to glue down those suckers on the bottom to supplement the bolts. Not sure if the adhesive works on asphalt.