Also if the drywall is installed horizontally, the correct way, and the trim is relatively narrow it can tilt because of the taper on the drywall.Also if t's drywall there's a gap between it and the floor. A low nail into the sole plate can tilt the trim.
Hanging drywall vertically only works if your framing is perfect. This rarely happens. It might align perfectly on once side of an interior wall, but it won't on both sides due to the outside corners. Hanging it horizontally puts one long joint down the middle of the wall at an easy height to finish. Using 12' sheets can eliminate butt joints in many situations. It is for this and many other reasons that the pros hang most drywall horizontally. I'm finishing my basement right now and I did have a few sheets vertically, if a single vertical sheet covered the entire wall, I'd hang it vertically, I had a few places were that was the case. But using 12' sheets was much easier than doing a bunch of vertical seams floor to ceiling.For a while architects designed houses with no trim at the bottom of drywall. I don't know if the drywall was installed vertically to avoid butt joints and tapered bottom edges or not. A friend of mine had such a home and added base trim to protect the edge from damage due to furniture and vacuum cleaners. Hospital design in that era was the same though the wall panels were prolly not drywall. I noticed in hospitals that damaged edges were occurring and vinyl trim later added.
I didn't hang my own drywall but if I had I would have hung it vertically in order to avoid butt joints plus easier lifting. Butt joints can present problems when installing countertops. A friend had problems when he added granite counter tops in his kitchen. I don't agree that horizontal drywall is the correct installation.
Before adhesives came along I just trimmed the first panel to make the fake joints align with studs. But my point is paneling is vertical as is 8 ft drywall neither should present a problem to the installer unless he's just lazy.We'd add or sister a stud, when installing over framing, and use adhesive when the wall was finished.
Typically when installing paneling, you'd install it over drywall. As paneling from the 1970s is really thin and quite easy to break if you leaned into it between studs. Alternatively, you could run strapping horizontally around the room to give you something to nail into at the edges, or install a stud or a piece of strapping at the seams that didn't land on a stud. You CAN do it on the cheap just over the studs, but it isn't a best practice.If your theory is correct how does one install paneling? Paneling has to be more accurate than drywall because you can't mud the joints.
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