Best Bonding Agent for PVC Trim

Discussion in 'Carpentry and Woodworking' started by Curmudgeon10, Feb 22, 2011.

  1. Feb 22, 2011 #1

    Curmudgeon10

    Curmudgeon10

    Curmudgeon10

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    I have a exterior hose reel that attaches to a wooden mounting plate, the plate is attached to the side of the house with standoffs and the holes the standoffs fit though in the vinyl siding are sealed with foam. The problem has been the wooden mounting plate -- I've made three over the last 10 years and Mother Nature/water ALWAYS gets the best of me. It doesn't matter what material, design, coatings I use; eventually my plate fails through joint failure (whether the joints are in between two boards, or I've used plywood with hardwood edge treatments attached with biscuits and Gorilla glue; that also has failed after several years. So this time around, I'm going to use PVC.

    I bought a PVC trim board at the home center. In order to make a plate sturdy enough, I'll edge join two pieces about 12" long and attach another pair of edge joined pieces rotated 90 degrees. For appearance only, I'll probably put a small radius on each corner and round over the edges. For paint, I'll use an oil based primer and two or three coats of exterior latex.

    But what is the best material to join the material both on edge and when lapping the 2nd piece? With regard to edge joining, should I also secure with pocket screws? What material should I use to fill any gaps?
     
  2. Feb 24, 2011 #2

    joecaption

    joecaption

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    Impossble to tell without a picture, but I can tell you I'd never use any form of wood that's showing to do this job.
    What we do is is a meter mounting siding block and run the siding around it. Before installing it we put a piece of 3/4 Advantec subflooring just sitting inside the block.That was the screws have something to pull on.
    Mount Blocks and Utility Vents
    The box stores most likly will not have these, but any real siding supply company will.
    By doing it that way the reel gets attached directly to the side of the house but there's 0 chance of water getting in behind the wall.
     
  3. Feb 25, 2011 #3

    Curmudgeon10

    Curmudgeon10

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    That's a good idea, and it would be perfect for new construction. But where I live (outside D.C.) trying to get any trade (other than plumbing and electrical) to respond on a small job is problematic. Problematic in that the only guys who will come out for a small job are often guys you don't want working on the house.

    Anyway, my mounting system with standoffs and foam sealant has withstood the test of time (11 years), and I'll continue using it. I found a special purpose bond/fill product that will enable me to construct a mounting plate from my PVC (see: Plastic biscuits, PVC joining, PVC biscuits - Bond&FILLĀ®).

    Thanks for your interest.
     
  4. Nov 18, 2013 #4

    Honest_Nigerian

    Honest_Nigerian

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    I just came on here to see if anyone had experience with Bond&Fill. Saw it for the first time today at the lumberyard and it seems like a really useful line of products.
    Anyone have comments one way or the other?
     
  5. Nov 18, 2013 #5

    nealtw

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  6. Nov 19, 2013 #6

    bud16415

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    I haven’t used much of the PVC trim until recently and then only needed to caulk and seal a joint in it and found a product sold alongside it in a caulking tube made for that. As to bonding it I was wondering the same thing and if you can use regular PVC pipe products on the cellular PVC trim materials. It seems you can after I Google it. But there are color based products (white) made just for joining even biscuit joints for edge joining.

    I found this article quite good. http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2012/08/31/ten-questions-pvc-trim/
    As well as these, http://www.versatex.com/pvc-trim-adhesive.php http://www.trimtight.com/

    http://www.prweb.com/releases/2012/10/prweb10070417.htm http://www.osipro.com/products.pl?id=TEQBOND
    VID: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CQuUEbx8k4
     
  7. Aug 5, 2014 #7

    mako1

    mako1

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    I use it all the time and use the new white Gorilla Glue.It sets faster and works well on PVC.Why would you paint PVC.It will not bond well.Why make the project from a material that won't rot and then have to keep painting it.PVC trim comes in many colors.
     
  8. Aug 5, 2014 #8

    beachguy005

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    I used pvc trim boards on my fascia and used pvc cement as recommended by the mfgr. I wasn't sure how strong it would be so I tested a couple pieces of scrap. Didn't bother with primer, just cement and it held tight...much to my surprise.
    I cemented the scarf joints on 50 feet of fascia and the mitered corners....south side of my house..in Florida...bonded great.
    I did paint with exterior latex semi gloss.
     
  9. Aug 6, 2014 #9

    Curmudgeon10

    Curmudgeon10

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    This thread is quite old now, old enough to report that I constructed my mounting plate from PVC and used garden variety plumber supply PVC Cement. It's weathering quite nicely.

    For the individual(s) who wondered about or advised against painting PVC in an outdoor application, you need to think a little more about how you can use this versatile and durable building material. I have constructed never-rot window boxes and birdhouses from the planks of trim available at the home centers, and just used rattle can paint formulated for plastics to paint it whatever color I want. I haven't see any deterioration in the paint on my projects, one now five years old.

    What has happened is that on one application of unpainted PVC fascia trim on some stairs that lead from my driveway down to my pool deck, squirrels have knawed the heck out of the PVC trim. I am replacing the entire stairs this fall with Trex Transcend and we'll learn over the winter whether the squirrels have a similar appetite for that material.
     
  10. Aug 6, 2014 #10

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    When painting over lead paint now they use a primer with a bad taste to stop kids from eating it. I wonder if that would work for squirls.
     
  11. Aug 7, 2014 #11

    Curmudgeon10

    Curmudgeon10

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    That might work except squirrels are so numerous around here and so stupid, I'd probably get 50 of them taking one or two knaws before they figured out it didn't taste good. Result: the same.
     
  12. Aug 7, 2014 #12

    slownsteady

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    I would want the answer to that before I spend big $$ on Trex. Maybe get a scrap from somewhere & put it where the squirrels can taste it.
     
  13. Aug 8, 2014 #13

    Curmudgeon10

    Curmudgeon10

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    This is a small set of stairs --- five risers --- and about half the material is already on hand, leftover from the deck project. I'll be making these stairs, just around the corner from the deck, match with Trex and cable railing. Currently everything is wood, with painted wood railing/balasters, epee risers and treads and PVC trim. For a variety of reasons, all this needs to be replaced, and I am over PVC trim for this application. Squirrels just helped me along. The Trex fascia on the deck has been available for squirrel chewing for about 10 months now, and they have passed it by...

    I just put a couple of photos of the deck in the "Projects" section.
     
  14. Aug 8, 2014 #14

    nealtw

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    Checked your photos, nice job. nice house.
     

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