Cast Iron Drain Problem

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sjm1027

sjm1027

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I have a pin hole in my cast iron sewer drain pipe about 2 inches from the floor level. Very small and no water on the floor yet. Just a white mineral type line about 1/8 inches think. I know at some point I will need to dig up the basement floor and replace the pipe if I have a pin hole. BUT my question is, how can I fix this pin hole right now and maybe buy another 5 years if possible?

I added 2 pictures. No cracks only a pin hole in the pipe.

IMG_3780.jpg

IMG_0518.JPG
 
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Rubber clamp over the pipe. Something similar to this.

flexible-pipe-union-rubber-pipe-repair-clamp.jpg_350x350.jpg
 
That looks like the crack is on an elbow? If so, a rubber clamp may not seal on a curve like that. I wonder if lite grinding to expose some clean iron, then coating it with a 2 part epoxy or something similar? They make a 2 part epoxy that's made for cast Iron. JB Weld being a good choice. I've used it on cast automotive parts. Works well in certain situations.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014OVHAOY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Gary said:
That looks like the crack is on an elbow? If so, a rubber clamp may not seal on a curve like that. I wonder if lite grinding to expose some clean iron, then coating it with a 2 part epoxy or something similar? They make a 2 part epoxy that's made for cast Iron. JB Weld being a good choice. I've used it on cast automotive parts. Works well in certain situations.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014OVHAOY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Click to expand...

Actually that is a cobweb making it look like a crack. I went to Home Depot today and picked up the JB Weld. I will give it a try when my wife is out so the water isn't running. Appreciate your time. Thanks
 
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The pictures weren't there when I posted the clamp. It will not work on the elbow.
The JBweld might work temporarily. Hot glue might also work.
 
JB weld came to mind because I had a 1993 Chevy P.U. years ago that had an intake leak. The anti-freeze had corroded the aluminum intake and created a leak on the mating surface to the head. Water was puddling on top of the intake. I cleaned the corrosion off the area, mixed up some JB weld, and applied. When it had set up a little I used a utility knife blade and shaved the JB weld off almost flat with the intake surface. I let it cure & then block sanded it flat. I reassembled and had no more leak. I drove it that way for several years and it was still leak free when I traded it off. It had to hold up to engine heat & cooling system pressure and passed the test.
 
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I used jb weld on my beater plow truck . The oil filter housing rusted and cracked where the filter gasket mates , cleaned it real good with degreaser, jbwelded it , sanded it flat. Good as new .....well no leak , lol.
 
sjm1027 said:
Actually that is a cobweb making it look like a crack. I went to Home Depot today and picked up the JB Weld. I will give it a try when my wife is out so the water isn't running. Appreciate your time. Thanks
Click to expand...

Allow for cure time before using the drain.
 
Thats what I am afraid of. I know I will need to replace it eventually.
Anyone know about the rubber spray I have seen on TV? (I know, can't believe I am asking it) But they sprayed a screen door and made a boat out of it :) Anyway I am almost thinking of trying that too.
 
sjm1027 said:
Thats what I am afraid of. I know I will need to replace it eventually.
Anyone know about the rubber spray I have seen on TV? (I know, can't believe I am asking it) But they sprayed a screen door and made a boat out of it :) Anyway I am almost thinking of trying that too.
Click to expand...

I've seen it at Lowes recently. have no idea how it would hold up.
 
sjm1027 said:
Thanks, I will see if I can find it.[/QUOTE

Spray seal will work but, probably isn't the best way to go compared to what has already been recommended.
That stuff has a strong odor and comes out of the can so strong that it would go all over. When said and done, two coats of the spray seal turns out to be paper thin.
JB Weld or Silicone will hold back the leak for awhile.
Click to expand...
 
That spray stuff is too expensive.
 
Will start with JB Weld for now. Just waiting for a good time when drain won't be used.
 
That rubber spray is actually pretty good stuff. I've used it several places and it has held up 100% so far. Things like metal chimney boot after the regular sealant failed, rain gutter joints. I even sealed a damaged tree with it to keep moisture out of the trunk. I sealed a brick chimney with it also. Sprayed it on and then used a paint brush to work it into the brick. (Used Clear). It was undetectable when dry, but the water beads off like a duck.
I wonder though if the leak is so small if the sealant would just sit on top? It might peal over time if that's the case? Don't know that for a fact, just wondering. It seems like it holds up well in situations where it has something to soak into or latch on to something.
 
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"Waterweld" epoxy putty by JB weld should work. 15 minute cure time, 1 hour to full hardness, sets up under water.

Phil
 
back in the day old timers would heat the area around the pin hole and then but in bees wax.
 
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