Chimney Cap/Damper Options?

Discussion in 'Bricks, Masonry and Concrete' started by o2284200, Apr 30, 2013.

  1. Apr 30, 2013 #1

    o2284200

    o2284200

    o2284200

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    My damper is stuck open and I've got no chimney cap. I'm concerned about rain, birds, critters, snakes, etc...getting in my house through my chimney flue & vents. The flue is 13inchx13inch and the other 2 vents are basically a concrete block on it's side being used to vent a convection oven + built-in grill (does not work; planning to demo) in the kitchen.

    I'm not finding many with experience on chimneys/fireplaces in this area but one co. I called told me that I could not put a cap on it because the flue and vent openings are flush with the chimney top. Also the chimney top is flat but should be pitched away from openings.

    I was told that if I want to put a cap, I have to chip away some of the concrete around the flue & vent openings and add enough additional flue/vent to rise above the chimney top to be able to attach a cap...then I need to build up and pitch the chimney top away from the new higher flue/vents.

    Thanks, your thoughts and opinions are greatly appreciated.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2013
  2. May 1, 2013 #2

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    I don't think your guy is wrong. I think the flue should be above the chimney something like 4" and the top should have a slope on it.
     
  3. May 2, 2013 #3

    BridgeMan

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    Adding a short section of tile flue and concrete crown should be fairly simple to accomplish. As you were told, chip away some of the flush concrete surrounding the flue, then roughen the entire surface to promote good bond with your new concrete. Set a new section of flue tile in place, then pour your crown. Install a new metal cap (with appropriate mesh screening) once the forms are stripped and concrete has cured.
     
  4. May 2, 2013 #4

    bud16415

    bud16415

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    Two other options that come to mind are to do something custom depending on the aesthetics of the house. That is a pretty massive chimney by the looks of it and might look funny with a smallish cap. You might take the photo and the dimensions to both a Chimney builder and or a weld shop and see what ideas they might have. I’m picturing an angle iron frame to drop around the whole thing and then a structure above it with a flat top.

    Doing a google search gave me a lot to look at so rather than attach a bunch of linke I will attach the photo search path and see if there is anything that you think would look good. There is a lot to be said for building something in the shop and taking it up and putting it on compared to working up on the roof. A full size cap would also protect what you now have.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=fla...E9gS_tIHYCQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1224&bih=1011
     
  5. May 7, 2013 #5

    o2284200

    o2284200

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    Thanks, I had a chimney guy/mason referred to me and he quoted me $500 to do all you suggested not including a new metal cap & install. How does that sound?
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013
  6. May 7, 2013 #6

    o2284200

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    Thanks, giving me some great ideas; I want both a damper & cap and I figure copper is the way to go because I'm close to the ocean & my flashing is copper. Looks like if I can find the right one & it's pitched properly, I won't need to add the section of flue and concrete crown.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2013
  7. May 7, 2013 #7

    bud16415

    bud16415

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    Yes some of the copper ones look quite attractive. Chances are you are looking for a custom built unit and will need someone to get up there and measure your chimney first and then go up and install it.

    Depending on where you live and how much you enjoy designing things you might have a local artist / tin bender around to work with. Start with a heavy base and some good set screws around the base to clamp it on and then go up from there.
     
  8. May 7, 2013 #8

    BridgeMan

    BridgeMan

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    Plan on a custom copper cap assembly costing several thousand dollars. And if it's too big and complex, each time the flue needs cleaning will cost you another $300 in labor to remove/replace the thing.
     
  9. May 8, 2013 #9

    o2284200

    o2284200

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    Ouch! Looks like stainless or aluminum and not custom. lol

    FWIW, I don't need custom or copper, I need it to WORK...Seal properly when needed and keep unwanted critters & birds out; spark arrestor, etc. As long as it doesn't look bad, I'm not too concerned about aesthetics. Initially I was thinking something like this:
    http://www.fireplaceessentials.com/c173/c95/c264/Chimney-Damper-Lock-Top-II-13-x-13-p1996.html

    That $500 the mason quoted me to set a new section of flue tile in place, then pour a crown is sounding pretty good right now.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013
  10. May 9, 2013 #10

    o2284200

    o2284200

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    I'd also like to re-stucco the chimney to a more smooth finish rather than the brick look. That said, which should be done first...?

    A) Adding a short section of tile flue and concrete crown.
    B) Re-stucco brick finish to a smoother finish.
     
  11. May 9, 2013 #11

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Problems do show up on chimneys that need repairs, when stucco is applied these problem show up as a problem with stucco and repairs are made while the chimney continues to fall apart inside.
    Google (stucco chimneys floida) and you will find that most people there are looking for repairs. I think you are just buying more trouble.
     
  12. May 10, 2013 #12

    o2284200

    o2284200

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    Thanks, I had the chimney inspected & cleaned by a local chimney sweep with no other issues brought to my attention. He actually thinks the damper may be able to be closed, if I'm patient and really work at it with the WD 40...Pressure & Time.

    Working damper changes my options, so we'll see!
     
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  13. May 11, 2013 #13

    o2284200

    o2284200

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    Introducing my new best friend;
    PB Penetrating Catalyst.
    [​IMG]

    Sorry I didn't post before pics but but after 2 rounds of WD-40 & wire brush, I found this stuff on sale at HD and ended up using the entire can in several stages today.

    I have 3 hinges on my damper & handle; I basically smothered the 2 top hinges on each side especially the middle one, let them soak for a while, then aggressively scraped the hinges with the wire brush, then forcefully tried to pry the damper handle open & closed manually.

    ..repeated...repeated...
    ...repeated...repeated...

    Let me say, I probably was not forceful enough when I first tried to pry open the damper after the first 2 rounds with the WD-40 but since I had the inspector tell me not to worry about breaking anything, I started all over again...

    I smothered the 2 top hinges on each side, let it soak for a while, then hit the hinges with the wire brush then tried to pry the damper handle open & closed.

    ..repeated...repeated...

    That did it; POP!
    This Biatch is closed!

    So now my options change...
    I can go for a chase cover and/or just cap...or am I missing any other options?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2013

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