Circuit breaker trips only while taking a shower, in master bathroom?

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Two things here. This is the first mention of a main breaker tripping. Did you mean the GFCI breaker tripping in this post?
Also, if this circuit is protected by a GFCI breaker there is no need for a GFCI receptacle. The receptacle does not provide any extra protection and in fact may not play nice with the GFCI breaker.



Also are you saying that the guest bathroom is on the same GFCI (breaker) circuit as the bathroom you are having issues with? Does that guest bathroom also have a GFCI receptacle?

Your post #16 - at this time I would say that the hot water heater would have anything to do with this issue. Hot water heaters do play a part in other issues such as back feeding a lost leg etc but let's not get into that now.

Have you changed anything in the way of electrical with the devices that are affected where they worked fine prior to doing any electrical work.

Also, you keep mentioning water. Just wondering and may not have anything to do with this but has any plumbing work been done on the house recently. Such as copper piping or copper piping being removed and replaced with PEX.

Another note. Covering the prong holes on a GFCI receptacle is really not such a good idea overall. If moisture is getting into a GFCI receptacle covering the prong holes will cause the GFCI longer to dry out inside (less air flow). Moisture can still penetrate it even with the holes are being covered.
You keep mentioning water
no plumbing work has been done and I have the vinyl type pipes, and I haven't touched the electrical system so this is very curious.
 
the fan and light are on separate switch right next to one another. So I should loosen the light fixture and check the connection as well as the light switch?

First you need to turn off breakers to the circuits you are going to be working on.

1. Remove the wall plate with the switches to the fan and the light and unscrew the actual switches from the switch outlet box. Leave the wires connected. Look closely at the wires and see if there is any discoloration or black soot. Check to see the wires are TIGHTLY connected to the screw terminals on the switch. Sometimes the wires are pressed into the back of the switch and those connections can get loose. You can remove those wires, from the back and attach them to the screws on the switch (Black wire on Gold Screw, White wire on Silver screw).

There will be other wires in the box (white, green). Make sure all of the white wires are FIRMLY connected to each other. They are usually held on my wire nuts. You can unscrew the wire nut (counter clockwise), make sure there is a firm connection and then screw it back on tightly (clockwise)

The green(or bare) wires are the ground wires and those should be tightly connected to the green grounding screw on the switches.

2. If you don't find any issues in the switch outlet box above, then you can check the light fixture and fan. Unscrew the light fixture and check the wires as you did above. Do the same thing with the fan.

If this does not do it, then I would call out a licensed electrician to sort this out for you.
 
Update

The 30 amp Breaker for the Hot Water Heater got replaced yesterday, now hot water heater is getting replaced now.

I figured out “I believe “, why my power would go out when I showered.

The water heater breaker was shot!

I know it had to be something with the hot water heater. Just didn’t know it was the breaker, because it didn’t trip. That’s why the 15 amp breaker tripped instead. Strange!!

So was it a faulty breaker only? Or was it a faulty hot water heater , that caused the breaker to be damaged?? I’d say it is a faulty breaker. But the water heater is also getting replaced for other reasons, so it’s all good.
 
15 amp breaker sounds too small for a water heater...
 
Did not wade completely through every post here.

But it is easy to mis-wire a gfci, so I would not suggest anyone start rewiring multiple gfci’s and switches in the same box, unless they know what they are doing.

Also, there can be more than one circuit running through a junction box, and if you turn off just one breaker, several other circuits can still have live wires in that box.

Lights and outlets are often on different circuits in the same room, so use a non-contact voltage tester before sticking your hands into any box or touching any wires or switches or outlets.

Maybe the water heater and its breaker was the problem.
But from skimming these posts, it sounded like the issue was arcing due to a bad connection, which others pointed out.

Back stab type connections often go bad and can cause arcing, which can pop the breaker.

Some newer gfci outlets have a push in connection that looks similar to a back stab, but the connection clamps down securely by tightening the screw, without needing to wrap the wire around the screw.

Sorry for looong post!
 
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