Deadbolt handle cannot be turned from inside

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albertkao9

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My door deadbolt handle cannot be turned from inside so the door cannot be opened. Please see attached photo.
How to fix this problem?
 
Remove the screws and the cover and unless the door has an excess of tension you should be able to twist the blade and open the door.
 
To be clear; knob won't turn or knob turns but, won't retract the bolt?
 
Many of these have a thin, narrow flat shaft which is easily bent making operation difficult or impossible when someone has tried to force a mis-adjusted lock closed or open. Remove the interior plate and you'll see how it works and whether anything is bent. Bent parts can be made straight but the lock plunger has to operate freely or it will happen again. If the plunger doesn't operate freely with the door open you probably need a new lock. If it binds only with the door closed, the strike on the door jamb needs to be reset to eliminate the binding.

Phil
 
The deadbolt handle is hard to turn even the door is opened.
This problem only occurred yesterday suddenly.
The left screw was loose. I tightened it but this hard-to-turn problem occurred so I posted this question.
 
Last edited:
See post #2, apply WD-40 or PB Blaster.
 
Which happens when the lock is improperly installed or the door has not been correctly bored.
 
slownsteady said:
If you loosen that screw just a bit, does it make the bolt easier to move? It may be binding from overtightening.
Click to expand...

If I loosen that screw just a bit, it make the bolt easier to move.
Currently I discover the optimum tightness of the screws - not too loose nor too tight and push on the door from inside.
I also put some Graphite Lubricant in the keyhole and the door key is easier to turn now.
What else can be done?
 
Last edited:
It appears correct.

Somewhere on this lock, and usually on the latch plate, will be stamped the brand name, from which you can pull up a PDF of the installation instructions.
 
Yep, that was a quickset set. I just googled as many as I could until I found a similar set up. If I remember correctly, the cone in that support plate goes inward, so more "meat" as there to grab on the horizontal key pin.
 
The OP's lock has some of the properties of the older SCHLAG that used an 1-1/2" boring, but not even they used a wood screw to secure it in place.

Sure would be handy if the OP could Identify the product.
 
The plate is set correctly. These locks were meant to be used with either a 2 1/8" single bore or smaller holes and you turn the plate accordingly. The 2 inner screws attach to the cylinder on the other side. Loosen those screws a bit and see if that helps. If it does then you tighten then somewhat while checking function- you may need to move the plate or cylinder slightly to obtain good functioning, it's a trial and error operation. One it's good tighten the screws well and reinstall the thumb lever plate.

These kinds of locksets are prone to getting misaligned like this since everything 'floats' and there's only clamping pressure from those 2 inner screws to hold it all in place. I'd recommend boring the door to the 2 1/8" standard, then flipping the plate(s) over so nothing moves around even if the screws loosen slightly, then this won't happen again.

Phil
 
Mastercarpenty said:
These kinds of locksets are prone to getting misaligned like this since everything 'floats' and there's only clamping pressure from those 2 inner screws to hold it all in place. I'd recommend boring the door to the 2 1/8" standard, then flipping the plate(s) over so nothing moves around even if the screws loosen slightly, then this won't happen again.

Phil
Click to expand...

You do have to explain your trick for over drilling a 1 1/2" to 2 1/8" hole.
 
2-1/8" is now pretty much the standard boring, while SCHLAG in the 40's and 50's were the pioneer of the residential deadbolt lock industry, were you to install one of their original locks in a 2-1/8" boring, the only thing keeping it from flying through the hole would be the bolt.
 
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