Electric Water Heater Not Working - Any Help is Appreciated

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Okay, thanks guys. I decided to take some photos for your guys' viewing pleasure. It was definitely an issue around here. Look at the breaker, it is burned up on the side that I could not get a reading out of. There is a bit of burn marks and dust, that I just blew off a bit inside the panel where the breaker was. I'm not going to touch or attempt to clean that without the panel being turned off. I just blew it off a bit with some air, and now I'm just going to replace the breaker.

Also, I looked online, and could not find the exact breaker. This breaker is very old. Made by a company called Crouse Hinds. Apparently, that is now a division of a company called Eaton. Can't I just buy a 30 Amp double pole Eaton as a replacement? Or does it need to be the exact same old one, because I don't think I can find a Crouse Hinds double pole 30 Amp breaker.

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Any of the local hdw. vendors will carry replacements that will fit.

It's a really common breaker.
 
I would not just install a new breaker without first taking a good look at that buss stab where the breaker attached. Looks pretty burned. The other breaker across looks a bit suspect also. That part of the panel is where the power comes from so if you get into it, keep that in mind.
Appears to be a Challenger Electric load center.
 
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beachguy005 said:
I would not just install a new breaker without first taking a good look at that buss stab where the breaker attached. Looks pretty burned. The other breaker across looks a bit suspect also. That part of the panel is where the power comes from so if you get into it, keep that in mind.
Appears to be a Challenger Electric load center.
Click to expand...

Have you looked at the rust in the box on top of tank.:confused:
 
Hey guys, just saw your posts after I reinstalled the new breaker. I went to the store, got an Eaton 30 amp double pole breaker and installed it. I put everything back together, I removed the new thermostat and re-installed the old thermostat (no need to use the new one if the old one wasn't the problem) and the water heater now works!

That's the good thing at least. I was also a bit concerned about the kind of burned up part of the panel where the old breaker was before. I went in there before installing the new breaker and just used compressed air to blow out any debris. But I'm hoping that is okay and won't need attention.

The thing I am most concerned with is why the circuit breaker went bad. I noticed my water heater, before it stopped working, had started to very softly whistle a bit for a few months or so. After turning it back on today, I noticed it is whistling again, but very softly. Can it be that the old thermostat is not shutting off and is continually heating, causing it to whistle, and causing it to burn up the circuit breaker? Or is it okay that the water heater is whistling?

UPDATE: The water heater stopped whistling
 
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Did you make sure both t-stats were working.
the pressure relies valve is on the right and we can't see if that goes into a drain, if it is make sure it isn't spraying water.
I am not sure about a whistle from wiring, maybe some one else will.

So the next time something happens you will check the breakers first and if it gives you trouble you may have to change that part with the knives if you can get the part, if not it may be a new panel
 
Good job so far.

There could be a problem with the heating element fed thru the thermostat connected to the white conductor or it may have been from a compromised connection in the wirenut.

And by the way, did you twist the conductors together prior to installing the wirenuts?

There is a wraparound meter used to measure current draw in individual conductors, which may tell you the story.

The easiest place is the subpanel.

Does the sound appear to be more prominent from a particular area of the heater, relative to the heating elements?
 
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amodoko said:
Okay, I walked around my building, I think I found the only things that looked like they could be related to that. I've attached photos of them. Do any of these look like they could be what you are talking about?

Also, if I'm careful, and wear electrical gloves, shouldn't I be able to be okay without having to shut off all power to my unit?
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There is always a chance of a fire and you should know how to shut it down.
I believe the black cover beside each meter is hiding a switch.
If they are not labeled you can find yours by comparing the reading to your hydro bill.
As all the apartments will have the same set up, talk to your neighbors and save them some pain by shortening their learning curve.
 
Yep, I tested both thermostats and they seemed to check out fine. Both were getting proper voltages. Yeah, the relief valves doesn't seem to be spraying water at all. The whistling sound has stopped also. Thanks for the kind words neal.

I did try twisting the wires together before using the wire nuts. I don't think I did the best job since those wires are not easily bent, which is why I think the previous installer didn't bend them. I tried to bend them, but don't know if it did any good.

The whistling sound has stopped, but it sounded like it was coming more from the top of the water heater. I'll have to check again when the sound comes back since it's gone now.

Okay, thanks neal, I'll have to check the black covers then to see if there are switches in there.

Thanks guys so much for your help thus far, I haven't had a hot shower in so long and can't wait to finally have one again! You guys helped me out a ton! Can't thank you guys enough
 
And now you have a job for the week end
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l54HUTG4kKY[/ame]

While you are there wrap them with black electrical tape too and that will keep any moisture out, maybe.
 
With only 2 solid wires in the wirenut there really is no need to twist them. If you have more than 2, twisting them will help to prevent a wire from pulling out from the wirenut.
 
I twist all gauges from 18 to 10, because the cause of fires in residential, attributed to elec., are the result of loose connections.

As the video linked by neal shows, use lineman's pliers, and grey wirenuts.
 
Oh, that video makes it look easy. Okay, sounds good, I will go ahead and do that then. It was mentioned that I should use grey wirenuts. What does the grey color designate? Like, what's the difference between grey or yellow wire nuts?

And just took a hot shower, finally, last night. It was amazing!!!
 
The different color of wirenuts are a simple way of determining the number of conductors which can comfortably be contained and there is an explanation on the pkg.

However, there are "grey" for 22ga wire as well as for 10ga. which you have.

Professionals develope a standard method that allows them to adapt without lugging and entire hardware store with them.
 
Ahhhh, I see. Okay, thanks for that info. And once again, thank you all for your help. I really needed it and I do appreciate it
 
Just an aside....no one mentioned the cause of that bad breaker. In my limited experience, the burnt leg was caused by arcing. That means the clips in the breaker were not tight on the spade lug in the panel. This cause the current to 'jump' from the spade to the breaker clip and created heat hence causing the burning.
Hopefully the new breaker has a tight enough clip on the spade and this won't occur again. BUT, after a month, pull that new breaker out and take a look at that clip and see if it is getting burnt/black residue from arcing. If it is, then the panel spade lug needs replacing or a new panel. If it looks good, then you're fine. You do not have to disconnect the wires from the breaker to inspect it if there is enough slack in them.
Good job and now you know to always check the breaker first.
Dave Mason
 
Thank you for that information, I will definitely check it again soon then!
 
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