Framing, boocking, bracing, not sure...

Discussion in 'Carpentry and Woodworking' started by Frank, Jan 2, 2019.

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  1. Jan 2, 2019 #1

    Frank

    Frank

    Frank

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    How's it going folks. I'm trying to walk-in/enclose my one of my 2 garage doors. My building is built form the early 1900s for old Jeep's to be worked on in the military (Fort Riley, KS). It's galvanized steel.

    I have like 5 questions. Pics and video posted.

    1. When it rains, water comes underneath the bottom/sill plate YET there is no bottom/sill plate. I did add FOAM sealant but water still gets in.
    I tried using drip edging and it's so tough trying to match the slits I cut into the sheet metal so it's a constant fight. I also TRIED cutting the drip edge every 15 3/4" to fit between the metal studs BUTTTT it has gaps on the outside and it looks awful. I THINK my next move is to spray flex seal (oh yeah I used silicone to caulk air holes. Wmhow can I get that drip edge to work?

    2. How do I take this spring off without getting hurt? This is the where I'm building that wall!

    3. Where that wall is going up, the studs are 8' 1". The top of the angle iron is like 7'4" or close to it. The PROBLEM I'm having is what do I attach the suds to since there is NO TOP PLATE and there is a 3 1/4" gap behind the 2x4 wall stud so again, what do I attach/anchor the wall too so it's secure. I'm wanting to insulate the building as well.

    Please Help???
     

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  2. Jan 2, 2019 #2

    Frank

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    More pics for clarity!
     

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  3. Jan 2, 2019 #3

    Snoonyb

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    A more panoramic view in some of your photos will be appreciated.

    The springs look to be about a #4, so they'll be tough to manhandle.

    Spring are usually removed with the door fully open, so they are in a relaxed position.

    There is a tool that was commonly used, which amounted to an 1-1/2", 1/8" flat bar with a length of chain and an "S" hook. However in your case, do you have a purchase for a come-along overhead?

    If you are closing the entire door space, just leave the door there and flash, caulk and insulate it.
     
  4. Jan 2, 2019 #4

    Frank

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    Hey snooby! Yes I will get more pics.

    Yes I want to leave the door there bc it's less siding I have to buy. I want to put furring strips CV and cover first insulation but I don't know what to attach/anchor the top plate to.

    Freaking 10 degrees out. Hate the cold
     

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  5. Jan 2, 2019 #5

    Frank

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    No comealong but can probably get one
     
  6. Jan 2, 2019 #6

    Snoonyb

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    Is this looking up; Screenshot_20190101-232919.png

    Fill the cavity with insulation and use 3-5/8"steel track as the top and soul plate.

    Is it your intent to build the wall out and fill the entire cavity with unfaced batt insulation? If so, I would instead use EPS, expanded polystyrene, and seal the edges with non expanding spray foam.

    If you keep the new framing aligned with the existing, you can order it cut in specific blocks to fit.
     
  7. Jan 2, 2019 #7

    Frank

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    Man all that so sounds confusing bc I've never done this kind of work and too dang poor (living off 250$ a week). But the foam panels crossed my mind and then expanding foam on the creases/joints.

    I'm not sure how to picture the steel Trac running as a top plate.... I just don't have experience... Can you draw a pic from a few angles so I can try and picture it.

    I'm wanting to keep the garage door for added security and plus that's siding I don't have to buy bc I'm broke as it is.
     
  8. Jan 2, 2019 #8

    Snoonyb

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    Frank likes this.
  9. Jan 3, 2019 #9

    Frank

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    The track don't exist up top bc there's a almost 4" gap...
    Metal studs plates aren't going to doing anything. I need a spot to anchor the metal then...
     
  10. Jan 3, 2019 #10

    Frank

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    Here's pics for what I'm doing now. What do you think. That Gap is only 3/4" (vertical).
     

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  11. Jan 3, 2019 #11

    Snoonyb

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    Those photos don't tell me anything.

    When I say panoramic, it means stand back from the subject about 8'.
     
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  12. Jan 4, 2019 #12

    Frank

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    Here ya go
     

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  13. Jan 4, 2019 #13

    Snoonyb

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    Thanks.
    Now you need to be descriptive, because I do not see that depicted in post #10.

    Also I do not see the cavity shown here; Screenshot_20190101-232919.png
     
  14. Jan 4, 2019 #14

    Frank

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    I will do my best to describe it. Is there a way I can email you and send you a video because this website will not let me upload videos. It has a limit on the megabytes size
     
  15. Jan 5, 2019 #15

    Snoonyb

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    You understand that by doing so, I would be ethically obligated to provide a 3rd party narrative for the benefit of other subscribers who may face a similar circumstance as you.
     
  16. Jan 5, 2019 #16

    Frank

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    Gotcha.

    The picture with the garage doors. I'm trying to put a wall on the right side garage door. There are many different angles and the angle you were asking about is from the side. It's not from the top or from the bottom.

    I'm thinking I may have found the solution but I may be wrong. Slotted angle iron may be able to work but I'm not a hundred percent sure.
     

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