Garage Tilting

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It all has to be stabilized before you jack anything for the quick fix, it would just be temp walls and bracing.
 
Just so you know what I have been thinking
The cause of the problem
The beams sitting on the ground. Has been lifted by frost, if the beams are attached to the piers then the piers have moved to.

My fix would be to lift ones side, straighten and level that side, remove all the beams on that side.
Ignore the piers and convert the structure to a pole barn by cutting a notch in the bottom plate, digging down 48" and install a post every 10 or twelve ft.
Set a 2x10 on top of the posts and screw it to the studs and then add another 2x10
The posts in the corners and beside the doors could be placed inside so to keep the wall together.
 
Just so you know what I have been thinking
The cause of the problem
The beams sitting on the ground. Has been lifted by frost, if the beams are attached to the piers then the piers have moved to.

My fix would be to lift ones side, straighten and level that side, remove all the beams on that side.
Ignore the piers and convert the structure to a pole barn by cutting a notch in the bottom plate, digging down 48" and install a post every 10 or twelve ft.
Set a 2x10 on top of the posts and screw it to the studs and then add another 2x10
The posts in the corners and beside the doors could be placed inside so to keep the wall together.

So why would you suggest a pole barn? Also who would you keep the post from rotting? Below is whats in my head from what you said. Is that picture correct?

Untitled.jpg
 
Treated lumber that is rated for under ground use would be enclosed in concrete and even when raw lumber is planted the only place it rots is where it meets water and air so at the surface.
For extra protection we just wrap a 6" peel and stick around the post at ground level.
Your picture is good except the post would be higher, as high as possible to give the wall stiffness. In a pole barn they go right to the roof but I doubt you could get that in there.
Once that is done the space where the beams were would have to be filled but that would be constructed so it would crush first so the frost would not hurt the building again.
 
Only if you send your wife and the baby to one or the other of your mother-in-laws.

If jacking is your method, next is assembling the material for raising the entire structure, deciding what you are going to use to attach the new 6X6, acquire the treated 6X6, then you can safely work on lifting the garage.
 
Is there a reason that i couldnt set it up the same way it is now. Im not sure I want to do a pole barn.
 
Just so you know what I have been thinking
The cause of the problem
The beams sitting on the ground. Has been lifted by frost, if the beams are attached to the piers then the piers have moved to.

My fix would be to lift ones side, straighten and level that side, remove all the beams on that side.
Ignore the piers and convert the structure to a pole barn by cutting a notch in the bottom plate, digging down 48" and install a post every 10 or twelve ft.
Set a 2x10 on top of the posts and screw it to the studs and then add another 2x10
The posts in the corners and beside the doors could be placed inside so to keep the wall together.

Im confused about the 2x10. is the 2x10 the top sill plate where the roof connects?
 
Also if my post i have in the ground right now are 48" deep they shouldn't be subject to frost right?
 
Im confused about the 2x10. is the 2x10 the top sill plate where the roof connects?

That is where I would screw it to the wall if you can get an 11 ft post in a hole on the inside of the garage.
If it were right at the top, it carry the roof and the screws would just hold the weight of the walls
 
Also if my post i have in the ground right now are 48" deep they shouldn't be subject to frost right?

You have posted picture but I still don't have a clear picture of how the roof in the front section ties into the back section, can you post a photo or two of that .
 
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