ground wire

[bud16415]

Since the power is coming into the Switch A box already and there is a cable BW/g going to the light from there then the common screw on switch A should have the "power in" black wire. Then run a BRW/g cable to the new switch location switch B. At this common screw connect the black wire to the common then on switch A "location" take the black wire that is going to the light and connect that to the black wire coming from switch B's common screw then just connect the two other travelers to switches A and B. The neutral connections in switch location A should not be changed. They can remain wire nutted together. This seems to be the easiest solution.

There should be a neutral at switch B by code only because now so many people are using smart switches where many of them on the market requires a neutral. Not having a neutral at switch B location is not a safety factor code violation.

This will work. For the little extra cost and the ability to have a neutral at switch B I would still run a power cable up the stairs with the switch cable and get the neutral. I would also put a double box there and have the B switch on one side and a duplex outlet on the other side making use of the power cable. At least in every house I have owned the top of the stairs needs a nice place to easily plug a sweeper in.

 

[kking16]

Thanks afjes-2016. This image is on the link you sent me. Is it correct?

 

[kking16]

The image would solve my problem.

 

[afjes_2016]

Yes kking16. The image you provided will provide you with the results you are looking for.

Just note though - the switch on the left does not actually show which screw is the "common" in the diagram. Just be sure you are working with the common screw on both 3way switches.

 

[kking16]

For me to understand it helps to see a diagram. In the links you sent me I found only 2 pictures ( I have attached a pic) that might apply to me, where power comes in at the existing middle switch A, as opposed to coming in at one end at the existing the light, or at the other end at my new switch B.

 

[kking16]

Guess this last post is redundant. Thanks

 

[kking16]

afjes_2016, After searching for a long time those were the only diagrams that related to my situation of power in at middle switch. I am wondering why. Is it a unique situation? And were your instructions the same as the diagram? Thanks

 

[afjes_2016]

kking16 don't refer to switch A as the middle switch in this scenario. There are only two switches in the setup that you are attempting to achieve. Anyone reading this may assume because you say middle switch that this is a 4way setup which is totally different than a 3way.

Yes, the diagram in your post #25 is correct and the one you should follow according to what you have described already as your existing setup and what you want to achieve.

Why are you asking if it is a unique situation? As I said there are several ways to wire a 3way setup. With your existing setup and what you want to achieve this is the best route to go.

 

[kking16]

Wiring is now done according to the diagram above. Everything works fine. Thanks to all, especially afjes_2016

 

[afjes_2016]

.
You are very welcome kking16 - glad we could help you and you accomplished what you wanted to

.

 

[mabloodhound]

My solution above assumes there is already a cable with only a WB/G running from the single pole switch that’s going away to the light fixture. Generally the harder run to make with a finished house especially a two-story house is one in the ceiling below a finished floor. So I suggested using those wires that are in place already.

That then leaves running a cable between the old switch location and the new location on the second floor. Walls are easier to fix IMO. That cable needs to have the traveler wires WBR/G. that then needs a power supply cable to the upstairs WB/G. There may or may not be power close to that new switch location, but my thought was that needing to fish one new cable between the switches you might as well fish power along with the travelers killing two birds.

Why would he need the additional WB/G to the upstairs since the 1st switch already has power and the WBR/G to the new switch will carry power to the upstairs.?

 

[afjes_2016]

Why would he need the additional WB/G to the upstairs since the 1st switch already has power and the WBR/G to the new switch will carry power to the upstairs.?

mabloodhound I think Bud suggested that so the OP would have a neutral at the new location for switch B which present code now states. Finding x/4g is not so easy to find. The OP would have an extra wire but that could be capped off.

 

[Snoonyb]

Since the power is coming into the Switch A box already and there is a cable BW/g going to the light from there then the common screw on switch A should have the "power in" black wire. Then run a BRW/g cable to the new switch location switch B. At this common screw connect the black wire to the common then on switch A "location" take the black wire that is going to the light and connect that to the black wire coming from switch B's common screw then just connect the two other travelers to switches A and B. The neutral connections in switch location A should not be changed. They can remain wire nutted together. This seems to be the easiest solution.

There should be a neutral at switch B by code only because now so many people are using smart switches where many of them on the market requires a neutral. Not having a neutral at switch B location is not a safety factor code violation.

Post#8, 1st sentence.

Finally! hooray for Hollywood.

 

[bud16415]

Why would he need the additional WB/G to the upstairs since the 1st switch already has power and the WBR/G to the new switch will carry power to the upstairs.?

@afjes_2016 explained it well. I figured as long as you are fishing one wire from point A-B why not fish two. What I suggested is to add an outlet there as well with a double old work j-box. My arm reaches in the bigger hole a lot easier.



You are correct if you ran two wires they could both be WB/G one WB for the power the other WB as the travelers. I have seen DIYers and done that myself as a lot of times a guy has a roll of WB/G romex for common household wiring projects but normally doesn’t have any WBR/G especially in light gage wire laying around. That would give you the neutral also.



So good catch. I should have sketched it out and saw I didn’t need WBR/G with two cables.

I don’t think code would have issue with doing a 3way with two cables.