Hi all. Hope your wood's holding up. I'd like to ask some for your opinions and any ideas re the following.
I'm preparing, not sure if its the correct term, shoemolding for baseboard. These pieces have a different profile than traditional (see diagram not to scale):
The bulk of the lengths are done, here's a pic of two pieces, one ripped and one not ripped yet:
This next shot is the thing that's going to challenge me unmercifully and I'd like your help on how to accomplish it. I need to put that routed profile on that curve (you can see, on this scrap, that the profile is already cut on the right side):
That curve will be mirrored on the other end so that the baseboard heater can sit on it like so:
I've puzzled over this and came to some conclusions:
1) This will not feed along a fence (yeah, I know. But I gotta start small...)
2) I'll have to use that little nipple thing that screws into the router table after removing the fence.
3) Watch a few vids of folks demonstrating said nipple use.
4) Be really careful to not lose any fingers.
I took a jig saw to create that curve (I couldn't see using the router to cut away all the excess). that curved edge will ride against the router bearing.
practice, practice, practice on scraps. I haven't tried it yet but feel like I'm missing something that could help me control the feeding. It was hard enough to feed long lengths in straight along the fence with it wanting to try to come off alignment. Can't imagine the hassles doing it "freehand". The bearing is supposed to help with that "pressure" required to keep the feed going evenly.
The vids I saw talk about using the starting pin as point of first contact and then (gradually?) transferring that contact to the bit bearing.
Any of this correct? No? Where'd I go wrong? What do you suggest?
Do you think I should use a longer piece so that there is 3-4-5 inches of straight 1 1/4" wide work and that will allow easing into the curve -- rather than bam! start the curve as soon as the wood touches the bit.?
Finally the simpler question (and effort) regarding attching the simple straight pieces to the studs (since there is no baseboard behind the molding).
What length? I've got a brad nailer (max is maybe 1 1/2") and assume at this point it can't hold long enough fastenters. I've been challenged before with using the right length of nail when toenailing 2x4s....
What type o' fastener here and how long to grab the stud?
And, fasten where? Parallel to the floor (ie through the "arch" of the molding) or angle the fastener down through the top of the molding into the stud?
I wish I could feel comfortably confident (by looking backwards at what's been done) -- but I keep looking forward and beginning all over again...
thanks for any help
I'm preparing, not sure if its the correct term, shoemolding for baseboard. These pieces have a different profile than traditional (see diagram not to scale):
The bulk of the lengths are done, here's a pic of two pieces, one ripped and one not ripped yet:
This next shot is the thing that's going to challenge me unmercifully and I'd like your help on how to accomplish it. I need to put that routed profile on that curve (you can see, on this scrap, that the profile is already cut on the right side):
That curve will be mirrored on the other end so that the baseboard heater can sit on it like so:
I've puzzled over this and came to some conclusions:
1) This will not feed along a fence (yeah, I know. But I gotta start small...)
2) I'll have to use that little nipple thing that screws into the router table after removing the fence.
3) Watch a few vids of folks demonstrating said nipple use.
4) Be really careful to not lose any fingers.
I took a jig saw to create that curve (I couldn't see using the router to cut away all the excess). that curved edge will ride against the router bearing.
practice, practice, practice on scraps. I haven't tried it yet but feel like I'm missing something that could help me control the feeding. It was hard enough to feed long lengths in straight along the fence with it wanting to try to come off alignment. Can't imagine the hassles doing it "freehand". The bearing is supposed to help with that "pressure" required to keep the feed going evenly.
The vids I saw talk about using the starting pin as point of first contact and then (gradually?) transferring that contact to the bit bearing.
Any of this correct? No? Where'd I go wrong? What do you suggest?
Do you think I should use a longer piece so that there is 3-4-5 inches of straight 1 1/4" wide work and that will allow easing into the curve -- rather than bam! start the curve as soon as the wood touches the bit.?
Finally the simpler question (and effort) regarding attching the simple straight pieces to the studs (since there is no baseboard behind the molding).
What length? I've got a brad nailer (max is maybe 1 1/2") and assume at this point it can't hold long enough fastenters. I've been challenged before with using the right length of nail when toenailing 2x4s....
What type o' fastener here and how long to grab the stud?
And, fasten where? Parallel to the floor (ie through the "arch" of the molding) or angle the fastener down through the top of the molding into the stud?
I wish I could feel comfortably confident (by looking backwards at what's been done) -- but I keep looking forward and beginning all over again...
thanks for any help