Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

[zannej]

Ahh. Yeah. I took the amazon one to mean that was the size of just the door not including the frame because they aren't always accurate with their measurements.
I believe I have over 83" in height for the doorway, but I will have to go back and check my measurements. The video on HD suggested the height be about 82" for an 80" high door. It had a little chart.

 

[nealtw]

Ahh. Yeah. I took the amazon one to mean that was the size of just the door not including the frame because they aren't always accurate with their measurements.
I believe I have over 83" in height for the doorway, but I will have to go back and check my measurements. The video on HD suggested the height be about 82" for an 80" high door. It had a little chart.

As long as you are higher than you need you will be fine, no nails in the top and the molding hides all sins.
Doors go in before floors so they have started making the frames higher to allow for hardwood floors. Usually you can cut a little off the bottom of the frame if needed.

 

[zannej]

As long as you are higher than you need you will be fine, no nails in the top and the molding hides all sins.
Doors go in before floors so they have started making the frames higher to allow for hardwood floors. Usually you can cut a little off the bottom of the frame if needed.

The videos I saw suggested putting blocks under the frame at the bottom to compensate for the finished height of the floor. Some suggested going with the specific height of the floor while another suggested a full inch. I would probably go with 3/4" to 1" shims. We haven't picked the flooring for the laundry room yet. I have a general idea for the bathroom though-- sheet vinyl that doesn't have to be glued down.

 

[zannej]

...View attachment 10827......................

What about this?

Alternately, I could run the sink's drain directly to the main line just like the toilet's is done. But it might just be easier to merge it with the toilet's drain. or have the toilet merge near the sink and run to the main line.

What do you think?

 

[nealtw]

That is what they used to do but with so many different floors, the install these taller ones and then the floor guy comes in and cuts the bottom to fit the floor he is using. The have a neat little saw for that.

The biggest trick to success you already have. Just knowing that is something you have think about.
Remember that checking the floor for level and if you are going to leave exact space for the floor or have the floor down first. If the floor is out of level one side of the frame will have to be cut to fit

 

[frodo]

What about this?

Alternately, I could run the sink's drain directly to the main line just like the toilet's is done. But it might just be easier to merge it with the toilet's drain. or have the toilet merge near the sink and run to the main line.

What do you think?

nothing wrong with that...

 

[zannej]

Good point, neal. I'm pretty sure the floor is not level there. It's going to be "fun" getting everything leveled out. I'm leaning toward the popping the frame up about an inch (if there is room) to leave flex room for the floor-- and if someone ever wants to change the floor later on, it would be easier to have more clearance than to have to cut something.

Thanks, Frodo. I'm trying to pick the best spot for everything to tie in and I know I'll have to end up moving the location of where the current main vent meets the soil pipe because I think the overflow pipe position will conflict with the current vent position. I'll have to do some measuring to figure out just how far from the wall the vent is, but it's hard to reach the spot to measure. Right now I have a guesstimate based on the size of the ceiling tile. I'd say it's from around 11" to 13" from wall to center. The overflow for the tub is 14" from the wall edge. For the P-trap, I'll either have to run it toward exterior wall and up or toward the interior wall. I'm thinking exterior might have less interference, but I'd have to see what it looks like behind that old paneling. I'll have to measure the height of the joists in the attic to figure out at what height the auxiliary vents should meet the main vent and which one will be higher. Does the slope of the vents matter as much so long as they are at least 1/4" slope?

Should I have the 3" combo with cleanout behind the toilet? Or would that just be a bad idea? I'm thinking bad idea. Maybe the cleanout would be up near the tub running perpendicular to the toilet's line? For the toilet, would that be a closet 90? or long sweep 90 at 3"?

I'm trying to think what fittings would be needed for this modified design. I also need to figure out where the hell the kitchen sink's drain ties in and how.

 

[zannej]

Quick question: Is this layout ok under IPC?

I wasn't sure if the wye was allowed there.

 

[frodo]

Quick question: Is this layout ok under IPC?

I wasn't sure if the wye was allowed there.

yes under ipc, but, why would you do it that way ?

look at this comparison



in the picture, the red round circle, it is a blockage.

in your plumbing, to clear it, you will have to pull the toilet

the other, you rod it thru a clean out.

 

[frodo]

Good point, neal. I'm pretty sure the floor is not level there. It's going to be "fun" getting everything leveled out. I'm leaning toward the popping the frame up about an inch (if there is room) to leave flex room for the floor-- and if someone ever wants to change the floor later on, it would be easier to have more clearance than to have to cut something.

Thanks, Frodo. I'm trying to pick the best spot for everything to tie in and I know I'll have to end up moving the location of where the current main vent meets the soil pipe because I think the overflow pipe position will conflict with the current vent position. I'll have to do some measuring to figure out just how far from the wall the vent is, but it's hard to reach the spot to measure. Right now I have a guesstimate based on the size of the ceiling tile. I'd say it's from around 11" to 13" from wall to center. The overflow for the tub is 14" from the wall edge. For the P-trap, I'll either have to run it toward exterior wall and up or toward the interior wall. I'm thinking exterior might have less interference, but I'd have to see what it looks like behind that old paneling. I'll have to measure the height of the joists in the attic to figure out at what height the auxiliary vents should meet the main vent and which one will be higher. Does the slope of the vents matter as much so long as they are at least 1/4" slope?

Should I have the 3" combo with cleanout behind the toilet? Or would that just be a bad idea? I'm thinking bad idea. Maybe the cleanout would be up near the tub running perpendicular to the toilet's line? For the toilet, would that be a closet 90? or long sweep 90 at 3"?

I'm trying to think what fittings would be needed for this modified design. I also need to figure out where the hell the kitchen sink's drain ties in and how.

you are WAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYY over thinking this.

you are doing what I call "brain fuking it" please excuse the crude expression,
clean out needs to be on the big pipe, thats the toilet.
if you want one at the shower, good idea. you simply, stick a tee
on the pipe. facing into the laundry room

 

[frodo]

i amend my drawing, moved the sewer line.. to exit by the tub with a clean out

 

[zannej]

Neal, I probably am way overthinking it, but I'd rather over-think than underthink and get it all screwed up-- I mean, I'm hoping that a local plumber would know if my plans were bad, but I don't trust one of them and the other I only me once. Had the latter scheduled to come out but he never showed up.

Thanks Frodo-- so to be clear, I would have a 3" drain with a cleanout and cap from the tub side traveling down and the tub and washing machine would connect to it with combo wyes (or whatever angle necessary to fit hit it and have the right incline), the toilet would have a 4" flange with 4"x3" reducing closet bend to go toward the wall on the right then have a 3" sanitary tee reducing to a 2" for vent at top (probably need a reducing coupling). That vent would go up to the attic after merging with the 2" vent from the lav.

What fitting would connect the lav drain to the toilet drain line? and would it have a cleanout underneath? Or would that invite sewer spillage from the pressure of the flush?

I considered having the closet bend go toward the lav and merging with the lav's drain underneath where the P-trap tees to the 2" vent. Under LPC, I can have 10' of run before a vent for a 3" pipe.

Would I be able to put a sanitary tee above the closet bend to have a closer vent and just run the bend toward the main soil pipe?

Would a 1/4 bend with low heel inlet be allowed in place of a closet bend? (I'm sort of guessing "no").

I'm not sure I'm quite understanding how the cleanout will work for the toilet. I've been trying to find photo examples that are more in line with my setup, but haven't had much luck so far.

 

[frodo]

the 3'' would connect to the 3'' under the house. a 3'' line would run



you will have 2 vents, 1 for the tub/washer and 1 for the terlet/lav

inless you tie them together in the attic

is the toilet/lav wall a outside wall?

 

[zannej]

the 3'' would connect to the 3'' under the house. a 3'' line would run



you will have 2 vents, 1 for the tub/washer and 1 for the terlet/lav

inless you tie them together in the attic

is the toilet/lav wall a outside wall?

Affirmative. Toilet/lav are against an exterior wall.

Thanks. I had a brain fart. For some reason I wasn't thinking straight. I was playing around with a diagram that had the toilet line running to meet the lav line, expanding to a 3" and then heading toward the main line. But I'm guessing that would make it still have the cleanout problem.

So, P trap for lav goes in to wall-- I think it's a 1.5" drain so I would adapt it up to 2" and have it go from the twist-on fittings to one that glues on and put that on a 2" tee.

Now, should I have it with a long sweep and run to the lav's vent inside the wall? Or have it drop down under the house to run it? I'm leaning toward the latter since it won't involve cutting as much wood, but it will make the connections trickier. Lav drain is less than 4ft from center of the toilet so it will be almost an inch drop. So, maybe I should just go through the studs and have the 2" line for lav meet with 3" line for toilet.

Gah. Neal is right, I'm overthinking this. LOL. I'll play around with different setups in sketchup. I wish I had more of the tools for it to make the plumbing planning easier.

 

[frodo]

all you will need for the toilet and lav, including a clean out are as follows

 

[zannej]

Thanks, Frodo!
That is clearer for me.
I saw this sketch:

But I know that where it continues to go down it should have a cleanout and then redirect toward the main soil pipe. Also, for some reason I think that having the lav line under the toilet line might be a bad idea. I would think the force of the toilet flushing could force stuff up into the lav's drain if there is a clog.

(although, I think you are suggesting just having a bend where the trap arm comes in to the wall and having it travel through the studs?

I was thinking of using the 1/4 bend with low heel inlet at #1 and having a cleanout attached, but the combo wye makes more sense.

This was an earlier sketch of mine (with the idea that the toilet drain would run to the lav drain). Just imagine this with the cleanout under the toilet and lav going to the toilet's line instead.

So, instead of going to 2" at this point, I would go 1.5 long 90 (for the drain) to have it go toward the toilet line and then have a 2x2x1.5" tee where it merges.

Closet fittings makes perfect sense now. I wasn't sure on that. I kept only seeing the 3x4 closet bends available. So, 4" flange, 3x4 bend... got it. Thanks so much!

 

[frodo]

yes, correct

 

[frodo]

now, that you have that in your head, lets make it better.

a "trap arm" on a sink, is always the lil SOB that clogs up because of tooth paste, hair, soap etc.

so,,,


lets move the whole thing over behind the sink. so that their is no ARM

the tee for the toilet, will just turn it twards the toilet

 

[nealtw]

Neal, I probably am way overthinking it, but I'd rather over-think than underthink and get it all screwed up

I don't think you are over thinking anything, more people should become their own general contractor so they can spot a mistake before a check is writtin.

 

[zannej]

Thanks guys,

Frodo, that last sketch is so much simpler. I love it! So, my sketch of running toilet to the sink's line is ok then? Do the fittings look about right? I would just have to turn the tee to be the correct angle to meet with the line from the toilet.

So, I'd still have the 3x4 closet bend, 3" pvc pipe, 3" sanitary tee, 3" wye, cleanout with cap, and the other stuff indicated in my sketch?

Picked up my brother's cold or whatever crud he has so I'm feeling like hell today.