Jeep Yj MPFI conversion.

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I did a Howell fi on my father in laws 82 CJ with the 258. Costs about a grand for that one but it got rid of about 30 pounds of hoses and crap from the engine compartment. Took a day or so to install.
 
Deckape said:
Great idea on the battery connections! I'm sure you all have seen the wimpy post connectors that Detroit (or Beijing) are forcing on us now-a-days. The metal is so thin, I doubt it will last 3-5 years on some of these newer cars & trucks. Just sayin'.
MG, how much do you figure the FI conversion part has cost you? I'm thinking about doing something similar to my '75 CJ 258 cu-in. How hard would it be to use salvage parts from a newer Mopar Jeep to the AMC version? (OBD II computer, etc.)
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if you can get the whole intake exhaust manifold and wiring harness you can do it relatively cheaply. there are several write ups on jeep forum.
or you can buy the intake and exhaust manifold you can get hesco's wiring harness which is already modified and cut down so there are just a few wires to hook up. Hesco sells many stages of the kit. http://www.hesco.us/products/7902/40l-conversion-parts I bought the whole thing because that way I had everything I needed without having to spend a lot of time figuring out what to do and what I needed. remember besides the wiring harness you have to get a speed sensor that has both cable and electronic signal. you have to either get a bellhousing for a 4.0 or convert to a front firing crank position sensor like hesco sells. you also need an electric fuel pump either an inline or swap to a newer style fuel tank... all of those individual parts are sold by hesco as well,
 
mustanggarage said:
if you can get the whole intake exhaust manifold and wiring harness you can do it relatively cheaply. there are several write ups on jeep forum.
or you can buy the intake and exhaust manifold you can get hesco's wiring harness which is already modified and cut down so there are just a few wires to hook up. Hesco sells many stages of the kit. http://www.hesco.us/products/7902/40l-conversion-parts I bought the whole thing because that way I had everything I needed without having to spend a lot of time figuring out what to do and what I needed. remember besides the wiring harness you have to get a speed sensor that has both cable and electronic signal. you have to either get a bellhousing for a 4.0 or convert to a front firing crank position sensor like hesco sells. you also need an electric fuel pump either an inline or swap to a newer style fuel tank... all of those individual parts are sold by hesco as well,
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Thanks, I was thinking of going in that direction, and the Hesco info will most likely save me a lot of grief when push comes to cranking.
 
Since my jeep has the full Hesco system, keep in mind that they have their own forum, and Leee (that's his spelling) will walk you through anything and everything they sell. A really nice/helpful guy.

http://www.hesco.us/forum/default.asp
 
just got the bikini top on and it decided to rain. Ozzie still wanted to go for a ride. I did not but I did take it out today.



He thinks this is his jeep.

 
Have you thought about a family style roll bar out of a 92-95 yj?
 
Chris said:
Have you thought about a family style roll bar out of a 92-95 yj?
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yes I have. I have looked on craigslist and ebay. I haven't found one close enough yet. I have kind of given up at this point. especially since my babies are all grown up now. I pretty much keep the seat tilted forward and bungied all the time now since the only ones riding back there are the dogs. but if I found a good one near enough to me I would really consider it. in the mean time I guess I am fine with the sport bar. since I really don't need it at this point I don't want to spend a ton of money on an aftermarket version.
 
I would give you mine if I were closer. I am about to do a full cage.
 
man I would jump all over it. that is the problem though every time I find one they are too far away.
 
I got mine a few years ago at a junk yard. Not sure if it was a California thing or nationwide but they were doing a cash for clunkers and giving people 4500 bucks for any car they had that was old to get them off the road. The junkyards were full of jeep parts for about 6 months.
 
I keep looking every so often, maybe someday I will find one. in the meantime Ozzie really doesn't care so I guess I will just not worry too much about it. that will be a great find for somebody however.

anyway I developed a vibration in my jeep at about 45 mph the other day. no real surprise I guess the front u joint went out on my front driveshaft. so I took this opportunity to replace it with a Tom woods drive shaft. I also stripped and painted the rear driveshaft.

I also kept hearing this scraping noise. it sounded like a bearing dragging so while it was up on the lift I checked it out and it sounded like it was coming from the back of the transfer case. so I changed the fluid in the transfer case and that helped a lot, but I suppose someday soon I am going to have to fix something in there. I may go ahead and do a slip yoke eliminator at the same time, but for now just changing the fluid seems to have it under control. that is first time I have done that actually so I had to go buy a stupid 30 mm socket. with all the tools in my shop I did not have a 30 mm socket. or an inch and 3/16 would probably work. I have 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 but no 1 3/16 anyway the jeep is in good running condition. I am still off work until monday. so I took the buddies for a ride.



then
 
I had a kind of scraping sound coming from my transfer case. it sounded like a bearing going bad. it also had a lot of slack in the chain. I also wanted to do a slip yoke eliminator on it. so I found this rebuilt transfer case from 4wd parts. with the slip yoke eliminator and a one year warranty for 1037.00 so rather than try to gather all the parts up including the new chain and slip yoke eliminator then spend the time rebuilding my old one I just bought the rebuilt one and slipped it in this weekend, with new tom woods driveshaft to match my front one. so now I am pretty good to go.





I also took the time to clean, sand, paint with rustoleum industrial black paint, and bedliner the skid plate.

as soon as I can get some help out here I need to adjust the shifter linkage a bit, I have to pull it down almost to neutral to get into 4hi. but no big deal.
 
I put the hard top back on. it is starting to get chilly at night around here. I put in one of those quick release kits that use thumb screws for the body and suitcase style latches on the front. it makes it tool free to remove the top and with the adjustments I made in the hinges and the windshield angle with the aftermarket rollbar it seals up better than it ever has. I still need to pull that heater box out and put some more insulation in there to seal it up better, but it seems to be working ok for now.
 
Got any pictures of the hard top quick release stuff? I'd love to do that.
 
No ****! Where ya at MG?
 
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