Patching a Large Hole in Plaster Wall

House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If you did go thru the floor it looks like you could put the trap on the basement side. it would be much simpler and easier to service it down there and keep the mess out from under the sink.

Fernco makes a Y saddle connection that should work with your cast pipe.
So either the Hepvo or cutting the pipe in the basement? Honestly I'm inclined to go with the easier option and install the Hepvo.

However, it does need to be sloped 1/8" per foot and I'm not sure I can meet that. I'll have to measure again, extremely precisely (I have a laser measurer I can use rather than trying to even out a measuring tape through thin air) and see if the opening to the vent pipe is just about 1/4" lower than the outlet of my garbage disposal. I'm wondering what would be the worst case scenario if they are even? It would certainly be better than the situation I have now.
 
You mite want to scroll down the page, to the PDF'S; HEPVO ILLISTRATED

While widely used elsewhere, IE RV'S, you may also ask ICBO, to see if there are any pending U.S. approvals.

Should have said; IAPMO - Wikipedia
 
You mite want to scroll down the page, to the PDF'S; HEPVO ILLISTRATED

While widely used elsewhere, IE RV'S, you may also ask ICBO, to see if there are any pending U.S. approvals.

Should have said; IAPMO - Wikipedia
They have a whole page on their site dedicated to kitchens so I would assume it's fine to use it in mine.

I don't know much about plumbing codes but they say HepvO fully meets the requirements of ASME A112.
 
Your copper is 1/2", your sink drain is 1-1/2" and the cast/iron is 2", all of which are nominal sizes and are generally available.

3/8" copper have a separate set of connectors, known commonly as compression.
What would be the proper way to connect a new pvc vent arm to the cast iron vent pipe? The pvc is 1 1/2" and the cast iron inlet is the same size as the flex tube that is attached to it now.

Also, someone mentioned that after I replace the shutoff valves, I should run PVC all the way up to the sink line. What type of fittings would I use to connect the pvc to the flexible metal tubes that are there now?

Outlet under sink3.jpg
 
Last edited:
What would be the proper way to connect a new pvc vent arm to the cast iron vent pipe? The pvc is 1 1/2" and the cast iron inlet is the same size as the flex tube that is attached to it now.
It's hard to see the drain pipe because your camera is focusing on the brass tee in the foreground but, I think usually, in older homes (like mine), the plumbing starts off as galvanized pipe and transitions to cast iron at the building drain (the 3 or 4" pipe that goes to the septic or sewer). Your house may have originally had galvanized pipe all the way to the sink like mine did.

I had a similar situation as you but at some time in the past (before I bought the house) the galvanized pipe corroded and was apparently leaking.

IMG_0596.jpg

You can see at the end of the trap arm, there is a trap adaptor on my old galvanized pipe. You may have something like this on your pipe sticking out of the wall.
If you do have threads there, then just get a PVC adaptor from fpt (female pipe thread) to 1 1/2" PVC (Or from Male Pipe thread to 1 1/2" PVC...whatever you case may be). From there you may have to adapt it to what your Hepvo needs...probably 1 1/4" PCV. It looks like the Hepvo comes with a PVC slip fitting. I would draw a sketch of what you know you have once you get your Hepvo and then take it to your home supply place (a small one if you want advice...like ACE or a locally owned hardware) and say , "I need to go from this to that," and show them your sketch.

In my case, Some time before I bought the house, they abandoned the corroded galvanized and installed a PVC drain through the floor.

IMG_0662.jpg

Unfortunately, the PVC was installed incorrectly and they set up an "S" trap which is against code. I ended up using a sawzall to cut the old galvanized out and replaced the "S" trap with a proper setup using an AAV (Air Admittance Valve) for the vent. As a side note...as you are finding out, when you start working on kitchen sinks, it often opens a can of worms. I ended up replacing several wall studs and the sub floor due to rot.

IMG_0690.jpg


Also, someone mentioned that after I replace the shutoff valves, I should run PVC all the way up to the sink line. What type of fittings would I use to connect the pvc to the flexible metal tubes that are there now?

View attachment 29992
There are many choices for water supply. Copper, CPVC (not PVC ...against code for drinking water), galvanized (not used much anymore, or PEX (most used these days). I originally had a combination of galvanized, copper and stainless steel flex supply line on my old sink. I redid it with PEX and then the SS supply line.
IMG_3854.jpg

You can see the brass to PEX TEE in there for the dish washer. IMO, PEX is the easiest to work with but it requires some tools (just like all the other types of plumbing). I use the Expansion PEX which is super easy but the expansion tool is expensive. I have a Milwaukee cordless expander. You also need a PEX cutter which is cheap. Some people like the crimp PEX and the tool is cheaper but a little more awkward to use.

My house still has a lot of galvanized in the crawlspace. I am currently adding a bathroom and continuing the removal of galvanized in favor of PEX so I'll get my money's worth out of the expansion tool.

1677249487599.png
 

Attachments

  • 1677246794646.png
    1677246794646.png
    116.6 KB · Views: 0
I can't tell you how much I appreciate all of your help. You have saved me a lot of money! Hopefully, I'm bringing this thread to a close after just a couple more questions!

It's hard to see the drain pipe because your camera is focusing on the brass tee in the foreground
It's really difficult to get a good picture but here's the best I could do. It looks like the existing connection is threaded around the outside of the white flex tube and the inside of the connecting nut. When it comes to pipe threads, I don't know which is female and which is male.

Under sink 3.jpgUnder sink 4.jpg
(not PVC ...against code for drinking water)
Glad you mentioned that, I had no idea. This is my first foray into plumbing.

One last question, I found this P trap and I'm wondering if I could use it instead of spending the extra money on a Hepvo?

EDIT: I just used my laser measure to measure the height of the vent inlet and the P trap outlet and it's exactly 1/4" higher on the outlet side. Meaning I believe I can use the trap pictured below and get the 1/4" slope required. Hooray!
Screenshot_20230224_125831.png
 
Last edited:
They have a whole page on their site dedicated to kitchens so I would assume it's fine to use it in mine.

I don't know much about plumbing codes but they say HepvO fully meets the requirements of ASME A112.
While the ASME A112 has tested and approved, IAPMO and your local building authority, still govern.

You see, you need to be careful about how you repair, because you, when you sell, may be facing a sizable repair/ to compliance cost were the purchaser require a comprehensive inspection, and the measures you embarked upon, as a convenience, proved illegal.
What would be the proper way to connect a new pvc vent arm to the cast iron vent pipe? The pvc is 1 1/2" and the cast iron inlet is the same size as the flex tube that is attached to it now.

Also, someone mentioned that after I replace the shutoff valves, I should run PVC all the way up to the sink line. What type of fittings would I use to connect the pvc to the flexible metal tubes that are there now?

View attachment 29992
The existing flex too hub connector, seems to be working, and were you to disassemble, you would likely find that the flex has a rigid pipe stub, a;;owing a washer to seal.


For the water, I would use a valve similar to this; https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...Vh3xvBB0jawcNEAQYBCABEgJMcvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

That affords you the versatility to individually control, should a repair be needed.
 
You see, you need to be careful about how you repair, because you, when you sell, may be facing a sizable repair/ to compliance cost were the purchaser require a comprehensive inspection, and the measures you embarked upon, as a convenience, proved illegal.
Thank you, I wasn't aware of this. I'll have to check. However, I found this P trap and I'm wondering if I can just us it rather than spend the extra money on a Hepvo:

EDIT: I just used my laser measure to measure the height of the vent inlet and the P trap outlet and it's exactly 1/4" higher on the outlet side. Meaning I believe I can use the trap pictured below and get the 1/4" slope required. Hooray!

When I replace the Ptrap, do I need to use any type of PVC cement in addition to the threaded fittings?
Screenshot_20230224_125831.png
The existing flex too hub connector, seems to be working, and were you to disassemble, you would likely find that the flex has a rigid pipe stub, a;;owing a washer to seal.
Yes, I suppose there is nothing wrong with the connector that's there now. However, I'm confused about male and female threads. I believe the flex tube is threaded around the outside and then the connector is threaded around the inside. So which is female and which is male, or what type of threaded connector do I need to buy?

I'll replace the copper with PEX. What type of fitting do I use to connect the PEX to the T that's there now?

Outlet under sink3.jpg
 
Last edited:
One last question, I found this P trap and I'm wondering if I could use it instead of spending the extra money on a Hepvo?
Screenshot_20230224_125831.png
Yes, I am not sure the Hepvo would help you get the slope. As for slope not very much is needed.
 
Yes, I am not sure the Hepvo would help you get the slope. As for slope not very much is needed.
I just used my laser measure to measure the height of the vent inlet and the P trap outlet and it's exactly 1/4" higher on the outlet side. Meaning I believe I can use the trap pictured below and get the 1/4" slope required. Hooray!
Screenshot_20230224_125831.png
 
Thank you, I wasn't aware of this. I'll have to check. However, I found this P trap and I'm wondering if I can just us it rather than spend the extra money on a Hepvo:

EDIT: I just used my laser measure to measure the height of the vent inlet and the P trap outlet and it's exactly 1/4" higher on the outlet side. Meaning I believe I can use the trap pictured below and get the 1/4" slope required. Hooray!
View attachment 30006

Yes, I suppose there is nothing wrong with the connector that's there now. However, I'm confused about male and female threads. I believe the flex tube is threaded around the outside and then the connector is threaded around the inside. So which is female and which is male, or what type of threaded connector do I need to buy?
It appears that the brass nipple is male threaded, so the slip-joint trap will fit.
 
You see, you need to be careful about how you repair, because you, when you sell, may be facing a sizable repair/ to compliance cost were the purchaser require a comprehensive inspection, and the measures you embarked upon, as a convenience, proved illegal.
I bought and sold a couple houses in the last few years...sold two in California and bought one in Alabama. My daughter just bought a house in Alabama too. Both states are similar in some ways and different in other ways.

I had done quite a bit of remodel in both of the California houses...mostly without permits. The buyers got an inspection and some things were flagged. The flagged items became a negotiation as to what would be fixed and who will pay for it. The things that were flagged in my house were things like, an outlet cover missing in the garage. Nothing big and nothing about the plumbing work I did.

I agree with Snoonyb, Do your repairs to code, neatly and correctly and you won't have any problems during the sale. I was never asked about building permits on either of the California houses. We bought the house in Alabama after getting it inspected. There were problems but nothing major so we bought it as-is. It was our decision.

The existing flex too hub connector, seems to be working, and were you to disassemble, you would likely find that the flex has a rigid pipe stub, a;;owing a washer to seal.
I think you are saying that there is a trap adaptor in her wall that the flex is connecting to. That means she could loosen the nut on the wall, pull the flex out, and insert a 1 1/4" trap arm right into it and tighten it down. Wah Lah, done. The trap adaptor is like a compression fitting.
For the water, I would use a valve similar to this; https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-...Vh3xvBB0jawcNEAQYBCABEgJMcvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

That affords you the versatility to individually control, should a repair be needed.
That's a fitting made by Sharkbite but it isn't a push to connect connector.

1677266178346.png

I think she wants something where she can cut the valve off and easily connect a new valve on there. Like this one for the hot with a connector for the faucet and another one for the dishwasher.

1677266411665.png

And either one of these for the cold that just goes to the faucet.
1677266546671.png
 
Yes, there are a number of these available and the key is matching too the flex fittings, which, from the photo's, appear to be 3/8 compression.
 
I was looking at these types of stop valves. I like them better. Is one any better than the other?
View attachment 30015
That particular product is generally used in connection with hose bibs, so that, in cold weather, the supply can be shut off and the line drained, to prevent damage from freezing.

Here is a product more easily adapted, in your case; Brass Push Dual Shut-off Valve
 
This valve looks like it's threaded on one end? Is that right? Will I need an adapter to connect it to the new PEX pipe? The pipes I was going to get are 1/2" so they'll fit on the tee further up the line.
Screenshot_20230224_042907.png
 
This valve looks like it's threaded on one end? Is that right? Will I need an adapter to connect it to the new PEX pipe? The pipes I was going to get are 1/2" so they'll fit on the tee further up the line.
View attachment 30016
Yes, the threaded end on the valve connects to your faucet's supply line. Take that little nut off the valve and your faucet supply line screws on. If you want to keep your faucet connections up high like they are now, the valve you proposed would work but like Snoonyb said, they are not the normal valves you see under a kitchen sink.
1677275956170.png
 
Back
Top