Refinishing a Bathroom Sink

Discussion in 'General Home Improvement Discussion' started by dglass4321, Mar 11, 2019.

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  1. Mar 11, 2019 #1

    dglass4321

    dglass4321

    dglass4321

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    We are remodeling a guest bathroom in our house. We took out a 42" wide Jacuzzi tub and are replacing it with a 30" apron tub. We had the plumber in to recenter the plumbing for the tub. He was also going to replace the drop in sink. The problem is that the sink is so solidly glued down it won't budge. Trying to force it out will probably result in damaging the marble counter top. It is real marble and this particular stone fractures easily. We have already experienced several cost overruns due to the Jacuzzi removal. I'm trying to get back in budget so decided maybe to just try to refinish the sink. It is currently almond and I want it to be white. Has anyone had any experience with refinishing a sink? Any particular products better than others? Or does anyone know if someway of getting the sink loose? Thanks for any help / ideas you can offer.
     
  2. Mar 11, 2019 #2

    Brian Famous

    Brian Famous

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    Assuming it is a porcelain sink, Rustoleum has a good Tub & Tile refinishing kit that works well.
     
  3. Mar 11, 2019 #3

    dglass4321

    dglass4321

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    Yes, it is porcelain. Thanks for the information. I'll check it out.
     
  4. Mar 11, 2019 #4

    Snoonyb

    Snoonyb

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    A photo would be helpful.
     
  5. Dec 10, 2019 #5

    dglass4321

    dglass4321

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    20191210_145658.jpg 20191210_145642.jpg Okay, I am finally getting started on this. I couldn't find the Rustoleum refinishing kit locally so I bought the Homax Tough as Tile kit. I'm following the prep directions but have hit a major snag. The kit provided 000 steel wool. I spent a half hour on it and all I did was to polish the porcelain. There was not a dull spot on it. To sum up my efforts, I've used 0 steel wool, 150 grit sand paper, 600 grit wet dry and attempted to etch it with Dry Lok Etch and Cleaner (a sulfuric acid solution) and the surface is still bright as ever. I went on line and I've done everything that was suggested but nothing has dulled the surface. I called Homax and they said I wouldn't get proper adhesion if the surface is shinny. Using a machine is out of the question due to the fluting in the bowl. Now I'm wondering about priming. Does anyone have any ideas / suggestions? I'd appreciate any help that can be offered.
     
  6. Dec 11, 2019 #6

    Jeff Handy

    Jeff Handy

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    Hire a pro, they have better systems, it will look better and last longer.

    Once you do it yourself, it’s ruined to have a pro do it again, if yours comes out poorly.
     

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