Replacing main shower valve/faucets-getting behind the ceramic tile

[vyacheslav]

Greetings,

I need to replace my main shower valves/faucets, as they are so old that water from them is leaking into my basement each time I run the tub or shower (the basement ceiling is open there for tub drain access, so it's just dripping onto my concrete basement floor with a floor drain nearby). I've had the valves "re-packed" several times already, but it's only a temporary solution and I want to take care of the problem permanently. My house was built in 1947 and has the original tile. I had a plumbing company I trust (the ones who have done the re-packing in the past) come in today to give me an estimate. They referred me to their "ceramic tile" guy so that he could take care of removing the tile and whatever the tile is adhered to so that they can come back in once the access to the pipes has been cleared.

I am going to be painting over the ceramic tile after the work is done. The bathroom tiles are 4.25" square, which are available today. I can replace the tiles with new ones and they don't have to match the color because I will be painting them anyway.

My question is: Is taking out the certain section of ceramic tiles (the plumber told me which ones needed to be removed) something I can do myself? If so, what would I use ....a Sawz-All or a certain type of ceramic tile cutter? I just don't want to have to pay a "second guy" to knock out tiles and open up the wall if I could do it myself, especially if I don't have to worry about saving the removed tiles. Obviously, I'm looking for your opinions and I would also be extremely careful and follow any advice you could give me.

In the picture attached, the plumber told me the tiles that needed to be removed are the 9 that are just above the tub spout (3 wide and 3 high), starting where the hot/cold handles are and going two more rows up from there, three wide each.

Thanks!

V

 

[vinny186]

You can remove the grout with an oscillating tool then carefully pry up the tiles with a 3 or 4 inch wide blade and gently tap the blade handle with a hammer.

 

[vinny186]

Just noticed you have additional tiles so everything I said will still work or you could use a pry bar which could be faster but will likely break the tiles which in this case doesn't matter.

 

[Snoonyb]

What's on the other side of the valve wall?

What is the make and model of the new faucet?

 

[bud16415]

What's on the other side of the wall?

 

[vyacheslav]

Thanks for the replies! I'm not sure what's behind the wall honestly. I took a photo from the basement directly below the tub. Where you see the yellow wire coming down is the wall in-between my kitchen and bathroom. There is rebar to the right but it looks like above the drain (where the faucets are) there is no rebar.

vinny, when you say "oscillating tool", does that mean a Dremel?


I'm not sure of the brand/type of faucet that I will install. Probably just a basic, chrome two handle model (not one lever that rotates back and forth, I don't like those). Any suggestions for a faucet?

 

[vinny186]

Here you go
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Worx-2-...qI19lwXRRukzmSaclwwaAhacEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Snoonyb]

See post #4. To clarify; the faucet is in the/a wall cavity and that wall cavity has another side, often known as the other side, so, what is the other side of the faucet wall?

Why would you need to remove any tile, if you are replacing the faucet in kind?

 

[vyacheslav]

Thanks vinny.

See post #4. To clarify; the faucet is in the/a wall cavity and that wall cavity has another side, often known as the other side, so, what is the other side of the faucet wall?

Why would you need to remove any tile, if you are replacing the faucet in kind?

On the other side of the wall cavity is my kitchen, which has the cabinets, counter top and sink on that wall. There is no access to the bathroom plumbing from that wall (that option was already explored by the plumber), unless a large hole is made in that wall and even then, there is a support panel in almost exactly in the middle of where the work would need to be done. See attached photo. The area I circled in red is where the work would need to be done. The other half is on the other side of that support panel.

The faucet is being replaced, but the existing faucet is leaking badly into the basement from inside the wall. The whole assembly needs to be repaired/replaced. If you refer to the photo in my initial post, if the hot and cold faucet handles are taken off, there is only a small section of pipe barely sticking out of the wall where each handle was. That whole unit needs to be repaired/re-soddered first. Plus, the plumber said that since the repair needs to be done first anyway, it would be a good idea to move the faucet assembly up a little bit.

I can ask the plumber if I leave the faucet where it is if any less tile can be removed. He made it sound like he needed those 9 tiles to be removed so that he had enough room to get in there and work.

 

[Snoonyb]

Thanks, that's the information I was looking for, and yes your options are reduced.

You'll also need to remove the cement base and lath and if you are carful to leave enough of the lath exposed it will be easier to tie to and patch for the replacement tile.

 

[vinny186]

If you choose to use an oscillating tool for this job, look for a grout removing attachment and another to cut through the cementitious backing the tiles are attached to.