Shore power setup for commercial vehicle

Discussion in 'Electrical and Wiring' started by DigitalBenny, Jan 21, 2018.

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  1. Jan 21, 2018 #1

    DigitalBenny

    DigitalBenny

    DigitalBenny

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    Want to put a 40A single pole breaker in my box. Run 6/3 NM-B to a 14-50R outdoor receptacle. 50A RV cord with 14-50P on one end and SS2-50R female twistlock on the other. Vehicle will have 50A inlet to my inverter setup.

    The inverter will pass 30A through to allow me to use my equipment on shore power. But the inverter's built-in charger will be drawing power additionally, not to exceed 40A total. This is NOT 240v, NOT 2 split 120v circuits (like an RV) this is a SINGLE 120v circuit...

    Will this setup work?

    (Posted in DIY Chatroom, no response...)

    Sent from my E6883 using Tapatalk
     
  2. Jan 22, 2018 #2

    hornetd

    hornetd

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    The receptacles and cord connectors, and inlets you are planning to use are for 250/125 volt 4 wire cords. There are 5-50 Receptacles available [​IMG] but it will be hard to find the cord connector and inlet in that pattern. I guess if you use the L14-50 Cord connector and inlet it could work as long as one of the hot terminals are completely unused.
     
  3. Jan 22, 2018 #3

    DigitalBenny

    DigitalBenny

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    Yeah the limited availability of compatible cords and outlets is what led me to my current plan.

    Any code issue leaving a dead hot?
     
  4. Jan 23, 2018 #4

    kok328

    kok328

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    Interesting post.
    I think they sell cord/plug adapters at the RV store but, not totally sure was just tagging along with my brother-in-law.
    I have a question about what happens if you pull a full 40 amps across the inverter rated at 30 amps throughput?
    I see you up sized the cords and plugs but, was just looking at the weakest link in you setup.
     
  5. Jan 23, 2018 #5

    DigitalBenny

    DigitalBenny

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    The inverter has over current protection built in.
     
  6. Jan 23, 2018 #6

    bud16415

    bud16415

    bud16415

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    Along with being weather proof I would want a disconnect of the new type where the circuit has to be open before the bayonet plug can be removed. Being around water and mobile I think this would be safest.

    You are just using this yourself no one else is going to be coming along and plugging in I take it. I don’t know if it is kosher or not but I would get the 240v plug run your 120 to both power leads like it was 240v but off the same phase and recombine them on the other end. Then label it so anyone coming along later would know it is 120v then you could go with a smaller wire also.

    OK now the pros can tell me all the codes that violates. :hide:
     
  7. Jan 23, 2018 #7

    DigitalBenny

    DigitalBenny

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    I would prefer to keep the cord large for durability. I don't think I'd want to use both hots on the same phase. Do you have an example of this disconnect you speak of?
     
  8. Jan 24, 2018 #8

    DigitalBenny

    DigitalBenny

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    Tapatalk is acting wonky... Sorry for the multiple posts. I get a message that my post wasn't published and then it appears after I try again
     
  9. Jan 24, 2018 #9

    bud16415

    bud16415

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    Ya don't re-post just trust they go thru. i will clean them up.
     
  10. Jan 24, 2018 #10

    bud16415

    bud16415

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    I just took a look at Hubbell and also Thomas & Betts water tight units that have a interlock and a disconnect as well as a coded voltage pin arrangement.

    They make them and I have used them at work mostly for 440v cabling but they have them for all voltages they just use different pin locations in the plug.

    They are not cheap though. Go to Granger and look around I think they carry T&B and see if anything looks like what you want.
     
  11. Jan 25, 2018 #11

    DigitalBenny

    DigitalBenny

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    Yeah... Not cheap at all!
    Definitely nice connectors. I like the Russellstoll ones. As much as I'd love to use them for everything, probably overkill for my application.
    I think I'd rather put the inlet socket of the vehicle behind a door to shield it from the elements both when used and when unused.
    The "shore side" socket, I went with an outdoor style only because it's in the work area of my garage. But it is indoors. The cord is long enough for me to plug in the vehicle inside the garage or parked outside the garage.
    Thanks for the input. The perfect scenario would be a pin & sleeve weather tight connector that ALSO had a power eject like a fire truck inlet... I'll stick with RV style. At the price savings I can replace it 10 times if it failed
     

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