starting bathroom enclosure frame

Discussion in 'Framing and Foundation' started by muskox37, Sep 13, 2013.

  1. Sep 13, 2013 #1

    muskox37

    muskox37

    muskox37

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    I am about ready to fully enclose the newly built shower and the existing small toilet and sink in a new and larger bathroom enclosure.

    I have not framed anything in before other than the back to the shower stall.

    I am trying to convert a mudroom [containing washer/dryer] and half bath [toilet/sink] into a laundry room [washer/dryer] and full bath [toilet/sink/shower].

    It would be nice if I could leave the half bath in place while I am building the enclosing frame [which will enclose all of the space of the half bath as well as some of the existing mud room space]. But this is not essential.

    Just trying to not make too many mistakes in the building of the frame [which will have an entry door]. I don't think I have any load bearing walls around the bathroom. Except for the rear wall which is the centre wall of this small bungalow and I know the rafters are supported fully on it. I will not be touching this wall.

    I will try to supply pictures if I can figure out how to upload them to the site.
     
  2. Sep 13, 2013 #2

    bud16415

    bud16415

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    The only suggestion I have for that type of DYF framing is I like to use screws to put it together. Get the type with a square drive and made for construction. When you make a mistake they are easy to back out.

    The second tip I would suggest is with plumbing like a shower if you can arrange your design so there is an access opening behind to get at the plumbing you will be thankful you did it later on.

    Plan your studs to fall on the end of your drywall sheets and 16 on center. Leave more room around the toilet sides than you think you need or spec says. And put in backer blocks where you want to mount the TP roll hanger and towel rods etc.
     
  3. Sep 14, 2013 #3

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    The door opening is 82 1/2" high and 2" wider than the door that you intend to use. Two studs on each side of the door opening and you want the opening to be at least three inches from any corners in the wall. When you frame two walls that will make a corner, nail two studs together in an ( L) shape. One stud to end the wall the other faces the other wall and will give you drywall backer on the inside of the corner. The other wall just gets one stud on the end. You may be able to attach the wall to the ceiling joist above, but if you are running in the same direction you may have to put blocks between the joists in the attic. This could go on for ever so, just ask question.:D
     
  4. Sep 14, 2013 #4

    CallMeVilla

    CallMeVilla

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    Remember wet wall framing requires a 2x6 footer and top plate ... to leave room for drain pipes and other plumbing. If you use 2x4, you will discover it is too narrow. If the plumbing is on an outside wall, remember to compensate for the possibility of freezing pipes.

    Finally, think through your electrical needs while the walls are open. Easier to run new electrical with studs open.

    Here is a good intro video [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHkJASBiiu4[/ame]

    And a pic of one setup (although I use copper, not PVC)

    Bath%20plumbing.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2013
  5. Sep 14, 2013 #5

    muskox37

    muskox37

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    All of this is very helpful. I don't expect to have any plumbing inside this wall because I have already plumbed the shower and the sink/toilet are previously plumbed inside another wall. The new wall will be free of plumbing. The door opening is the major complication I can see at the moment. Any future plumbing will largely be done through the fairly decent crawl space. I do have plans to move the water heater into a part of this space but this replumb will largely be done through the crawl.
     
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  6. Sep 14, 2013 #6

    CallMeVilla

    CallMeVilla

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    muskox37 likes this.
  7. Sep 14, 2013 #7

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    Villa; Not likey will have room to lay wall on the floor, instructions on stick framing in place would be more usefull.:rolleyes:
     
  8. Sep 15, 2013 #8

    muskox37

    muskox37

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    I had a quick look through this site and bookmarked it for future reference. I am not dealing with a basement floor but everything else is relevant to what I will be doing. I might have enough room to build the wall on the floor if I move a few things out of the way. I will have to check that out.
     
  9. Sep 15, 2013 #9

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    If not stick framing isn't the end of the world either.
     
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