Stucco waterproofing paper

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Nanewnanew

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I've recently removed some drywall under a window and have found that some of the black paper on the stucco has disintegrated leaving what looks like the inside of the stucco (hard uneven gray surface). I'd like to strip the rest of it and put in some new waterproofing membrane. Does the stucco need to be taken out and then replaced with a new membrane underneath it or is there something I can put in from the inside?

Thanks
 
IMG_20190726_081155300.jpg IMG_20190726_081309668.jpg
Can you post a pic of the area you're referring to?
The top image is the peeling black paper with what looks like stucco behind it to me. Is that right?

The second photo shows an additional spot where I want to remove the black paper and the brown paper behind it, closer to the stucco. Can I remove all that and then put in the replacement weatherproofing stuff?
 
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Yes, just make sure that it adheres completely.
 
Okay. What is that thick brown paper below the black paper in the second photo? It looks a little worse for wear and so want to get rid of it. Can I just cut into it with a utility knife?
 
I don't see any brown paper in the photo, except at the top.

The brown paper at the top of the photo is called SISAL-CRAFT and was the, and still is, flashing that is applied at all openings where a fixture such as a door or window is to be installed.

Because it is part of the weather proofing the stucco Kraft paper would lap under the SISAL at the silence of a window opening and then on top of the vertical sides and also over the header, followed by the BANJO WIRE and 1"/20 stucco netting over the KRAFT and SISAL.
 
I don't see any brown paper in the photo, except at the top.

The brown paper at the top of the photo is called SISAL-CRAFT and was the, and still is, flashing that is applied at all openings where a fixture such as a door or window is to be installed.

Because it is part of the weather proofing the stucco Kraft paper would lap under the SISAL at the silence of a window opening and then on top of the vertical sides and also over the header, followed by the BANJO WIRE and 1"/20 stucco netting over the KRAFT and SISAL.
Okay thanks.
 
If I wanted to also treat the studs with some antimildew or antimold, what is the best product for that? I have heard of Concrobium, KILZ primer, vinegar, or just bleach/water combo.

Any suggestions?
 
I wouldn't bother because all you could treat would be 3 sides.

For mold to exist it needs moisture and air, so if you correct the cracks in the stucco, you'll have pretty much addressed to problem. Because caulking all of the framing member intersections, and then painting with any of the oil based primers, would be a daunting task.
 
1564431303129996686825.jpg I see.

So I am removing all the drywall between the floor and the window, and in the process it looks like there is something under the metal corner bead, as I approach the window sill. Is there anything to watch out for as I remove the drywall on the window sill? I've attached a photo. Thanks.
 
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There are a couple of causes for the discoloration.

The windows could have been changed and the new may have been slightly smaller, causing the opening to be infilled.

There may have been a mil core used as a finish for the drywall prior to a wood sil being installed.

Since the drywall mud is waterbased, it could just be rust.

As you proceed you're bound to encounter some oddities, it was built by man.
 
Do you think I can remove it and the drywall on the window sill without removing something that will force me to reset the window or anything related to it?
 
Yes, however, where the bottom rail of the window meets the drywall there should be a bead of caulk that needs to be cut, before you get aggressive, because the drywall may be under the window.
 
Okay. And removing the drywall under the window won't compromise the external seal of the window or disrupt flashing?
 
So I'm having a hard time removing the corner beading that has been nailed through the drywall into the studs. The nails are old and I'm just not sure how much force I am able to apply (pulling with the forked end of a hammer). Can I just yank it as hard as needs be, or is there a tool that works well for this?
 
Update: I tore off the corner bead. I was trying to come at it from the front and instead decided to try the top of it. So I chiseled into the drywall along the window sill just beyond the edge of the corner bead and worked the hammer fork in there and yanked up. Once it was up a little along the top I then went back and forth along the front and back of the corner bead.

I should say corner beadS. When the windows were replaced someone put this one on top of another. The one below was super rusty.

Once these were off, I scored the where the window meets the drywall and removed the drywall, that went under the window. BTW, for future reference, does anyone know if you can take off the bottom flap of the window that skirts the window (where the drywall caulks to)? It seems if that was removed it would give you a better chance of being able to remove the drywall in sheets (some of mine came off in sheets but a lot of it I had to chisel away).

Thanks for your help, appreciated.
 
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