Support for balloon frame exterior wall

[Al A]

I’ve got a 2.5 story balloon frame house and want to safely open up a load-bearing wall on the first floor. The wall is an original exterior wall that supports one of the eave ends of the roof. It does not support the ceiling/floor above. The floor joists for the second floor run parallel to the wall we want to open. I’m not sure about the attic floor joists. I am a fairly experienced DYI'er and believe I’ve got the load-bearing figured out (but always open to suggestions/corrections).

The wall in question is 28 feet in total. Half of the wall was opened previously, possibly even when the house was originally built 100 years ago. I need a 53" wide opening for a 26" pocket door. I’m planning to use a 2 x 12" LVL for the header and Versa LAM columns for the jacks. The stud on the right of the opening that I plan on using for the king was cut to create a diamond-shaped window when the house was built. I am planning to use that as a king by mending it using one of the other studs that gets removed. I’ll put in some blocking to help prevent any future twisting. There is a rock foundation below the wall.

I am wondering about a safe way to go about removing the studs and getting the header in and supported while supporting the existing framing. I don’t think temp wall on the other side of the wall is helpful since the joists are parallel. Thank you in advance for any advice/critiques.

 

[bud16415]

IMO the eave ends are not supporting the bulk of the structure roof and floor loading.



I am also not a pro or a structural eng.



I normally try and replace the number of studs removed at a minimum and better yet add in an additional on each side. It looks like you are removing 4 so adding 3 in on each side supporting a header would be my plan. Your layout where the large area was removed prior doesn’t show that. It looks like 10 were removed and only 2 replaced. If that is the case that shows how little load bearing is being done by this end wall.



I don’t know the strength specs on the LVL or the LAM posts I suspect the 12” LVL will be over kill.



As to cutting it open I think I would face screw a temp header across the opening and then remove the bottoms and frame it in. something long bridging 3 studs on each end held in place with 3 deck screws at each stud I think would do the job.



Again I’m not a pro and some pros should be along shortly.



The framing around that window looks really strange also.

Lastly welcome to the forum.

 

[Al A]

Thanks for the welcome and advice, Bud!

The window used to be a diamond shape before a porch was framed in at some point in the past. Then a double-hung went it. I always wondered about the strangely angled trim in that area until I opened it up. It matches a window directly above it that is still in place.