Switch wiring question

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kaddy99

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Hi,

I had to replace a 2 way switch in a junction box with 2 switches and 5 pairs of wires.
Some of the connectors came off when I pulled out the old switch and I can't figure out how to wire it back up. The breaker keeps blowing on any combinations I try.

This is currently how it looks. I'm not sure how to wire "B" and "Y" in the circuit.

Any ideas? Thanks! wiring.png
 
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Snoonyb

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Welcome.
So, lets start with a little clarification of terminology.Residential switches are standard, single pole, (just 2 screws on the side where the conductors/wires are attached and a grnd screw), 3 way, (2 points of conductor attachment on 1 side and 1 on the other), 4 way, (2 points of attachment on both sides).

Timer come with both screw points of attachment and with pigtails, (factory conductors molded in, as an assembly).

Do have a VOM, (Volt, Ohm Meter), or a proximity voltage detector? They are specific, but handy.

It appears that B & Y should be connected to the black conductor of the hot pair, however, since you are tripping a breaker, I would individually disconnect the conductors from the B connections, until that subsidies.
 

kaddy99

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Yes i have both a multi-meter and proximity voltage detector. The time just comes with the pigtails and not screws for attachment. I'm going to go take a look at it now.
 

kaddy99

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So testing with a voltmeter I'm not getting any voltage from pairs 1 or 2 connected to ground and nothing the proximity voltage detector as well? Could both pairs not be hot?
 

kaddy99

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Number #1 or #2 weren't hot. Hmmm. I think I actually blew the fuse in the break box. I'm not getting any power to the receptacles or switches on that line now even after cycling the breaker over and over.
 

geochurchi

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Hi, how many fixtures are you controlling, is the timer for one and the single pole switch for another?
 

kok328

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Assuming the timer was already existing we can conclude that you have legitimate neutrals in the box and none of these runs are "switch legs".
B on the timer is line power and R on the timer is load. B for the timer needs constant power as does the toggle switch.
X, #2 is possibly powering two different loads.
So B & Y should connect to #1. One of the B's connected to #1 is pass-through power but, that doesn't matter here if B, Y, & #1 are all under 1 wire nut.
 
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