12 years ago the balustrade imaged was installed. I did it. And I was way inexperienced. So, quite a few of the balustrades were shorted by millimeters on length. To get them in place I shimmed one end.
I took one down last week to replace some of the balusters that were rotting (yeah, pretty likely amateur painting -- more omission than commission though)
A fews reqs for help/suggestions on reinstallation:
1) Any ideas on how I can remediate the shortness? Best I can think of is a shim cut from scrap pieces of top and bottom rail -- then _applied to the existing piece. but how to apply? ss screws? magic glue?
2) in the pic you can see the clearance btwn floor and bottom rail. the kit manufacturer's instructs said to install L brackets and then screw into posts. I saw this as an issue. Whether I attach the brackets to the post or the rail first didn't matter -- how the heck was I going to drive the screws with no clearance for a driver?
Is there a magic driver? Would one of those Minnie Drivers used by electricians have enough torque?
3) given 2's issues. Are there, I'll call them "rests": A u-shaped, U standing up, which is attached to the posts in the four corners. then align the 'strade above the Us and drop it into place. I suppose they'd have to be custom shaped to provide a bit of snugness, but it seems like they could be stronger -- and you could easily put the 'strades away for the winter, clean the floor more easily etc. ach, so convenient. maybe not so cosmetically desirable but paintable or kerf-y could help that...
Hah! if i had these brackets, maybe I wouldn't need to shim too!
I took one down last week to replace some of the balusters that were rotting (yeah, pretty likely amateur painting -- more omission than commission though)
A fews reqs for help/suggestions on reinstallation:
1) Any ideas on how I can remediate the shortness? Best I can think of is a shim cut from scrap pieces of top and bottom rail -- then _applied to the existing piece. but how to apply? ss screws? magic glue?
2) in the pic you can see the clearance btwn floor and bottom rail. the kit manufacturer's instructs said to install L brackets and then screw into posts. I saw this as an issue. Whether I attach the brackets to the post or the rail first didn't matter -- how the heck was I going to drive the screws with no clearance for a driver?
Is there a magic driver? Would one of those Minnie Drivers used by electricians have enough torque?
3) given 2's issues. Are there, I'll call them "rests": A u-shaped, U standing up, which is attached to the posts in the four corners. then align the 'strade above the Us and drop it into place. I suppose they'd have to be custom shaped to provide a bit of snugness, but it seems like they could be stronger -- and you could easily put the 'strades away for the winter, clean the floor more easily etc. ach, so convenient. maybe not so cosmetically desirable but paintable or kerf-y could help that...
Hah! if i had these brackets, maybe I wouldn't need to shim too!