I didn't install this outlet -- But I did replace the supply line from old BX (may or not have been properly grounded) with NM 12/2. Its a 20amp circ, upstream from the outlet are a couple of (new) wall-switched (via 12/3) ceiling fixtures, downstream are a couple of switches (one to light, one to fan)
I had a beeatch of a time re-wiring with the NM and getting the box back into the wall. I did that back in Feb or so. So when the CB tripped after finishing installing the upstream fixtures, I figured all that tightness in the box something got loose. Backed out the box, Nope the cxs were ok.
But, now that I have a little e-learning under my belt: the switch just didn't look right -- But I know I left the existing wiring on the unit as I found it
All I did was detach the bx and sub in the NM (and mess with the (new) ground))
So, if you would take alook at this: its the box in the wall (my 12/2 on the left, the 14/2 heading to the outlets on the right). You can see the neuts all on the left of the recept and the hots on the right.
between the terminals (which are brass/silver per each side) are small connector/jumper wires. I didn't make them I just reattached them
Is this bats? This unit, on the back clearly marks "line" "load" "hot" & "white" but those wires don't match.
1) Could the use of old BX/cloth allow the unit to operate (but perhaps it was _never_ going to trip on a wet hand?)
2) My introduction (and lack of understanding) of the NM forced the bad wiring to be obvious by tripping the cb?
3) or I confused the bx lines somehow when I replace them with the NM white/black
4) Now that I've written this out and thought about it I wonder if i introduced some sort of hot loop? In the pic below you can see my wirenut --that was all black. so: NM12, silver,brass, NM14 all in one nut.
I think think, no I know, there'll be some learnin' about line, load, downstreams etc. and how to wire in my immediate future. but again, isn't the original wiring a bit bizarre?
Regardless I'm replacing the GFCI itself no matter what: its a 15amp on a 20circuit, old and I probably fried something too.
Very Curious, Thanks.
Here's the (hot) side of the unit:
I had a beeatch of a time re-wiring with the NM and getting the box back into the wall. I did that back in Feb or so. So when the CB tripped after finishing installing the upstream fixtures, I figured all that tightness in the box something got loose. Backed out the box, Nope the cxs were ok.
But, now that I have a little e-learning under my belt: the switch just didn't look right -- But I know I left the existing wiring on the unit as I found it
All I did was detach the bx and sub in the NM (and mess with the (new) ground))
So, if you would take alook at this: its the box in the wall (my 12/2 on the left, the 14/2 heading to the outlets on the right). You can see the neuts all on the left of the recept and the hots on the right.
between the terminals (which are brass/silver per each side) are small connector/jumper wires. I didn't make them I just reattached them
Is this bats? This unit, on the back clearly marks "line" "load" "hot" & "white" but those wires don't match.
1) Could the use of old BX/cloth allow the unit to operate (but perhaps it was _never_ going to trip on a wet hand?)
2) My introduction (and lack of understanding) of the NM forced the bad wiring to be obvious by tripping the cb?
3) or I confused the bx lines somehow when I replace them with the NM white/black
4) Now that I've written this out and thought about it I wonder if i introduced some sort of hot loop? In the pic below you can see my wirenut --that was all black. so: NM12, silver,brass, NM14 all in one nut.
I think think, no I know, there'll be some learnin' about line, load, downstreams etc. and how to wire in my immediate future. but again, isn't the original wiring a bit bizarre?
Regardless I'm replacing the GFCI itself no matter what: its a 15amp on a 20circuit, old and I probably fried something too.
Very Curious, Thanks.
Here's the (hot) side of the unit: