What can I do ? Window pane starting to rot, on top of kitchen sink tap.

[MelbourneMe]

Hi Guys,

I'd like to ask for some advise about my window pane that sits on top of the kitchen sink.
While its elevated, its still comes close to some water splashes when using the tap. And the paint is starting to get off, and the wood getting a bit of damage or rot.
I'd like to know if there is something i can do to fix this ? Or do I need someone to come and check it for me ?
Thanks again for reading.

 

[Snoonyb]

Welcome.
Were it I, I would sand the loose material off, use a dryer and dry the area, several times, prime with a good oil-based primer and repaint making sure the paint penetrates the edge where the tile meets the wood, then after the paint has set and dried run a bead of tub & tile caulk, all the way across the tile to wood intersection.

 

[Steve123]

That is probably mdf, which can not tolerate water at all.

Another option, is to first sand it down to pretty much bare wood and then apply a few coats of penetrating epoxy, then paint. They show a brush, but you might get better (smoother) results by wiping it on.

And the ultimate would be to replace that casing with PVC or urethane casing. Not too common but they do make it. Probably a special order, even at a good supplier.

 

[MelbourneMe]

Welcome.
Were it I, I would sand the loose material off, use a dryer and dry the area, several times, prime with a good oil-based primer and repaint making sure the paint penetrates the edge where the tile meets the wood, then after the paint has set and dried run a bead of tub & tile caulk, all the way across the tile to wood intersection.

Thanks Snoony and sorry for the late reply. I thought I might go down that path of sanding and putting in some water proof primer.
Well thanks for the idea and will certainly update this thread once ive done it !

 

[MelbourneMe]

That is probably mdf, which can not tolerate water at all.

Another option, is to first sand it down to pretty much bare wood and then apply a few coats of penetrating epoxy, then paint. They show a brush, but you might get better (smoother) results by wiping it on.

And the ultimate would be to replace that casing with PVC or urethane casing. Not too common but they do make it. Probably a special order, even at a good supplier.

Hi Steve, Thanks. Ill check if we have those urethane casing where i am from. Appreciate it and will get back to everyone after.

 

[Snoonyb]

Thank you
Lifes distraction.
Please post some progress photos, as you go.

 

[PJB12]

If I'm not too late finding this question...

I've had great success with PC Wood Petrifier- even on mdf. The wood will become waterproof forever and rock solid. (Waterproofs cardboard & cloth too, but makes them stiff.)

The PC Wood Petrifier has very low VOCs unlike the Minwax version or homemade, so no brain or lung cells will get wrecked. It's water clean up for tools and spills.

It's a thin liquid and will wick up from the bottom where the paint is gone. (But it's better to remove the paint as Steve 123 mentioned & do the face too.) Sometimes I inject it with a drugstore syringe having an 18 ga needle. That works great on vertical and upside down surfaces.

Get the wood dry. Paint, spray, wipe or inject. Wait 2 - 3 minutes for it to absorb. Repeat until no more will absorb. Then wait 16 or so hours before paint.

For caulking in wet areas, I like PPG Top Gun 300xi or Top Gun 400. They adhere tenaciously so no water will wick behind. Both have large movement stretch, stay glossy and last forever.

Enjoy Your Project!
Paul

PS: If your Melbourne is the Australia one:
The PC Petrifier might have to be by mail (Amazon, Home Depot, etc.). Perhaps someone at PCEpoxy.com can tell you if it's locally available.
The PPG caulk is most likely available, but under different branding. They change product names by region. Contact Us people at ppgpaints.com will tell you for sure.)