patio cover flashing

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Stucco is known to be a weather resistant building finish, but it is part of a system. In order for the wall to resist water penetration effectively, the system must be properly designed and detailed, then built according to plans.

The main purpose of building paper is to keep water from contacting the substrate and structural support members—very commonly sheathing like plywood or oriented strand board (OSB and wood or metal studs—so that these materials stay dry. Metal can rust and wood can rot. Also, wood is prone to expand and contract with changes in moisture, so it’s essential to keep sheathing dry to provide the plaster with a sound substrate. Minimizing the changes in moisture minimizes the stresses that might be placed on plaster from behind. In addition to structural considerations, excess moisture within a wall creates a potential for mold or mildew inside buildings.

Building paper prevents moisture-related problems in stucco walls. Several industry documents, such as PCA’s Portland Cement Plaster/Stucco Manual, EB049, ACI’s Guide to Portland Cement-Based Plaster, and building codes across the country, recommend two layers of paper. During construction, paper can be damaged. Two layers of paper provide greater assurance that water won’t get to the sheathing or support members. Paper should be lapped like siding, meaning that upper layers are placed over lower layers. This facilitates drainage toward the outside. Where the edges of paper-backed lath meet, connections should be lath-to-lath and paper-to-paper.

Building paper should comply with the current requirements of UU-B-790a, Federal Specifications for Building Paper, Vegetable Fiber (Kraft, Waterproofed, Water Repellent, and Fire Resistant). This specification differentiates weather resistive Kraft papers by types, grades, and styles. Grade D is a water-vapor permeable paper. Grade D paper with a water resistance of 60 minutes (or more) works well for stucco applications, and is often preferred to Grade D paper having the minimum 10-minute resistance required by UU-B-790a.


This argument is just nonsense that takes the discussion away from the fact that there are now holes in the last line of defense (the paper)

None of which is you point of contention.
 
The product has evolved from tex-a-coat to tex coat and is no longer advertised as waterproof, just a lifetime warranty.
 
The product has evolved from tex-a-coat to tex coat and is no longer advertised as waterproof, just a lifetime warranty.

We had a problem here that the news called leaky condo, hundreds of buildings built with waterproof stucco, the cost to repair these buildings was often more than a condo was worth and many people lost a lot of money. All the home warranty companies just went broke and left people on their own.
 
We had a problem here that the news called leaky condo, hundreds of buildings built with waterproof stucco, the cost to repair these buildings was often more than a condo was worth and many people lost a lot of money. All the home warranty companies just went broke and left people on their own.
so i talked to a sherwin williams rep and he recommended loxon for wind driven rains and it has a 10 yr warranty Im getting a painter out next week for a quote..
 
so i talked to a sherwin williams rep and he recommended loxon for wind driven rains and it has a 10 yr warranty Im getting a painter out next week for a quote..

It's good, then you will at least know where the water is coming from if you still get leaks. Have your painter check caulking around the windows.
If you get flashing, it wants to be treated like a solid surface deck.
In a heavy rain water can build up and be sitting against the wall so you need a flexible flashing that is glued to the wall and the roof.

Then if you see any problem after that get after it sooner better than later.
 
so i talked to a sherwin williams rep and he recommended loxon for wind driven rains and it has a 10 yr warranty Im getting a painter out next week for a quote..

Which of the numerous LOXON products?
 
Loxon XP is the name of it. Any buddy ever use this? Recommended way to apply it or prep before applying?

The first sentence will be an indicator of the area you'll need to cover and the specifications should give you a yardstick to the products durability when applied to stucco; http://www.buildsite.com/pdf/sherwi...ng-System-A24-Series-Product-Data-1340290.pdf

Is this paint contractor a referral from Sherwin Williams?

If so, obtain other estimates from independent commercial paint contractors, as well as from masonry contractors, whom by the way, also waterproof their products.
 
The first sentence will be an indicator of the area you'll need to cover and the specifications should give you a yardstick to the products durability when applied to stucco; http://www.buildsite.com/pdf/sherwi...ng-System-A24-Series-Product-Data-1340290.pdf

Is this paint contractor a referral from Sherwin Williams?

If so, obtain other estimates from independent commercial paint contractors, as well as from masonry contractors, whom by the way, also waterproof their products.
I got referred to him by the painting company because they didn't know what to recommend. I will get 3 buds.
 
Good Idea.

The referral could be a general referral, or it could be a friend or relative. It's how the system works, or you could have been referred to the yellow pages, a friend or neighbor.

This is a resource that I use for specialty I don't do myself;http://www.thebluebook.com/search.h...archTerm=Waterproofing+Contractors&class=4660

They are self policing.

You can change the search terms to Commercial Painting, or Masonry or call DUNN EDWARDS, or KELLEY MOORE.

Be practical with what you are asking. Because LOXON is a high-build product, if there are pin holes will my wall appear spotty when wet. Do you really need to do the whole wall both above and below the cover, or just the 2" area above the flashing.

Back to what both Neal and I have mentioned, the potential leaking of water into the wall cavity from a failure of the windows to have been properly caulked and sealed.

This would be the responsibility of the builder to correct, and needs to be ascertained and addressed before you attempt to take any steps which may void any warranty.
 
Good Idea.

The referral could be a general referral, or it could be a friend or relative. It's how the system works, or you could have been referred to the yellow pages, a friend or neighbor.

This is a resource that I use for specialty I don't do myself;http://www.thebluebook.com/search.h...archTerm=Waterproofing+Contractors&class=4660

They are self policing.

You can change the search terms to Commercial Painting, or Masonry or call DUNN EDWARDS, or KELLEY MOORE.

Be practical with what you are asking. Because LOXON is a high-build product, if there are pin holes will my wall appear spotty when wet. Do you really need to do the whole wall both above and below the cover, or just the 2" area above the flashing.

Back to what both Neal and I have mentioned, the potential leaking of water into the wall cavity from a failure of the windows to have been properly caulked and sealed.

This would be the responsibility of the builder to correct, and needs to be ascertained and addressed before you attempt to take any steps which may void any warranty.

good question does the entire wall above the patio cover need to be sealed all the way to the roof?
the patio cover installer is coming on Tuesday to do some water tests because there is water getting inside the wall where they ran their electrical for my light switch to the flood lights since I didn't not want them to run hot. They may have done some caulking but I don't think they did the proper water proof job of it nor apply any paper flashing to insure if water comes down the wall it doesn't get behind the paper flashing installed by builder. when it rains hard the water actually drips inside the light switch.
 
I think you know my opinion of aftermarket waterproofing stucco. If not, it's a waste of money and will affect the side-to-side aesthetics of the house, besides not solve the other issues, IE. one wall displays wet and an adjacent wall displays dry.

Have the contractor address your growing list of concerns, install the flashing and agree to return to do a water test after a reasonable caulk set time of no more than a week.
 
I'm late to this thread but your plan AND detailed description of the flashing installation should solve your problem. No matter the country location, flashing should ALWAYS be installed at a joint like this. Just caulking is not the answer. And any good contractor knows this.
 
There is no doubt in my mind that this is the contractors fault. Surely its not the first time he has ever run into this.No amount of caulking would ever fix your problem. Not in the long run anyways. There hardly looks like there is any pitch on the roof and someone has tried to silicone the seams.
 
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