Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

[nealtw]

I looked at the plumbing code for my state and it showed 2" as being sufficient for a toilet with a 3" drain. Not sure if that would change if I routed the vents for toilet, sink, tub, and washer to the same vent though. But it might be easier to just do the vent for toilet and sink out the exterior wall and around the soffit and then leave just the tub and washing machine on the existing one through the roof. Although, I might want to route through the attic because the vent on the exterior wall will come up near some powerlines and those damn crape mertle trees. I don't want to have leaves and flowers falling in to the vent pipe. I am going to be busy today/tomorrow so I will have to mess with drawings later.

OK you mentioned the vent going out and around before.
If you don't mind me saying, your redneck is showing.

 

[zannej]

I'm too lazy to multiquote. Thanks, Frodo! Sounds like the washing machine, sink, tub, and toilet all being on the 2" works. Does that pipe look like a 2"? I think those ceiling tiles are 12" squares.

OK you mentioned the vent going out and around before.
If you don't mind me saying, your redneck is showing.

LOL. How is my redneck showing? (I'm slow today).

I think I'll take some screencaps from sketchup and do some lame line sketches over them in MSPaint to get an idea of the pipe layout. I have different options. I'm going to have to cut off the vent pipe before it gets down to the tub because I think it would be in the way of the overflow AND there wouldn't be enough room for the P-trap to get the necessary 4" arm it will need. I'm just trying to decide if I should have the trap go toward the exterior wall and branch back or have it go toward the interior. I'm worried that the latter will interfere with the water supply lines though. I think I'm going to go for a single lever thingamabob that pivots and pulls out for pressure and temp settings. I'll need to pick the right height for that. Turns out, the shower walls are a bit shorter than I remembered so they will not even go up over the top of the window-- but I can use a waterproof type wall material above. I think the total height of the shower walls will be about 72".

I have to get up early so I will try to mess with this later when I'm not so exhausted.
http://www.houserepairtalk.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/

 

[nealtw]

I'm too lazy to multiquote. Thanks, Frodo! Sounds like the washing machine, sink, tub, and toilet all being on the 2" works. Does that pipe look like a 2"? I think those ceiling tiles are 12" squares.



LOL. How is my redneck showing? (I'm slow today).

I think I'll take some screencaps from sketchup and do some lame line sketches over them in MSPaint to get an idea of the pipe layout. I have different options. I'm going to have to cut off the vent pipe before it gets down to the tub because I think it would be in the way of the overflow AND there wouldn't be enough room for the P-trap to get the necessary 4" arm it will need. I'm just trying to decide if I should have the trap go toward the exterior wall and branch back or have it go toward the interior. I'm worried that the latter will interfere with the water supply lines though. I think I'm going to go for a single lever thingamabob that pivots and pulls out for pressure and temp settings. I'll need to pick the right height for that. Turns out, the shower walls are a bit shorter than I remembered so they will not even go up over the top of the window-- but I can use a waterproof type wall material above. I think the total height of the shower walls will be about 72".

I have to get up early so I will try to mess with this later when I'm not so exhausted.
http://www.houserepairtalk.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/

Just a vent sticking out the side of the house.:trophy:

 

[frodo]

zanne..just give me a simple, floor plan, i will draw your plumbing for you

wth correct pipe sizes marked on the page

 

[zannej]

zanne..just give me a simple, floor plan, i will draw your plumbing for you

wth correct pipe sizes marked on the page

Thanks! I'm hoping to work on it soon. Got a cat in my way. Have to be up early again tomorrow and some friends need help transporting a fridge.

Neal, ah yeah. Plumber did that so he wouldn't have to try to tie in to the main vent. He still left the S-traps though. Mind you, he was in his late 70s when he did the work. He was in his 80s last time he came out here.

 

[frodo]

.........................

 

[nealtw]

Frodo; nice work.

zannej If you want a bigger sink you could use a pocket door, either cut into that wall or just add another wall on the washer side,

 

[frodo]

.............

 

[zannej]

Thanks, Frodo. I was hoping to have the laundry plumbing box on the side in an interior wall so it would be easier to access-- plus, I think the location of the vent in your drawing is inside a window.

Here is a revised floorplan.

I hope it is clear. I can reference measurements if you need. The center of the tub's drain should be about 14" from the studs. The main vent is about 12" give or take an inch or two from the studs-- I will have to measure later, but it is hard to reach.

The orange stars are only approximate locations. Currently, the one on the left should have ductwork hooked to it since it is a defunct vent/fan. There is a ceiling fan on the right. I will swap them out.

I considered a pocket door, but it would be a pain to frame out, is more expensive, and would make it more difficult to hang things on that wall. I would like to have a fold-down table on the right wall of the new laundry room.

Neal, I'm happy with the sink I have. It looks larger in person than it does in photos and drawings.

I modified Frodo's sketch to show the main soil pipe in purple.

(assuming I am getting the orientation and such right)

Edit: I could probably knock out more of the wall to the left of the washing machine and leave just a small strip with the existing light switches and then put the box behind the washer, but that would put the waterlines in the exterior wall.

here's a photo of that wall

 

[slownsteady]

I considered a pocket door, but it would be a pain to frame out, is more expensive, and would make it more difficult to hang things on that wall.

A bifold door may work if space is tight. You usually see them as louver doors but you can get one that is solid. The louver doors are great for ventilation in a steamy bathroom, but can create awkward situations when company is involved...if you catch my drift:hide:

 

[nealtw]

Is there room to have the bath door swing out, or is that to close to the bed door.

 

[zannej]

Neal, I had actually planned for the door to swing out in some of my plans. It would be about a 32" door so it would not interfere with bedroom door. Bedroom door swings in anyway.

I have bifold doors in the front room and hate them. LOL. They are quite old though. Maybe newer ones have better tracks though.

The reason the sink is not in the last image is because it had too many vertices or something and made the program incredibly slow. I need to fix it up in Milkshape and plug it back in to sketchup if I can.

 

[nealtw]

Bi-fold have not improved in 70 years.:rofl:I would still look at sliding door, the drop down ironing board would not be built in but could still be put on the wall, with a little modifying the door frame for the slider.

 

[zannej]

Bi-fold have not improved in 70 years.:rofl:I would still look at sliding door, the drop down ironing board would not be built in but could still be put on the wall, with a little modifying the door frame for the slider.

I did seriously consider a pocket door or sliding door early on in my design plans. I researched prices, how to install, pros and cons, etc. It was something included in my early drafts of the design for a long time.

I love the idea and look of pocket doors, but I worry about the sliding mechanism. My closet doors got off track and don't slide well. My sliding glass door is a total pain in the arse to open and close. I just haven't had a good track record (no pun intended) with doors on tracks.

With my luck, something would go horribly wrong with the mechanism and the door would get stuck and require opening up a wall to fix. Plus it intersects where I was thinking of putting a light switch (although, I could still keep the light switch on the load-bearing wall).

Other than the issue with the tracks-- including the possibility that stuff might be able to get in to the recessed area and block it, it was more expensive and required a higher level of skill for installation. I discussed it with my family and ultimately we decided that a traditional door would be the cheapest and easiest way to go.

Currently, the door is pretty much already framed out to about 34.5" wide. one part is almost flush against the load-bearing wall, so I would just need to build it out a couple of inches. Since the wall is currently made of crappy paneling, I could probably add a recessed space for the doorknob so it wouldn't hit the wall and bounce out.

I really appreciate the advice!

Frodo, what would you revise in the plumbing plan given the location and orientation of the main soil pipe? (I really appreciate the diagram you provided).
http://www.houserepairtalk.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/

 

[nealtw]

I did seriously consider a pocket door or sliding door early on in my design plans. I researched prices, how to install, pros and cons, etc. It was something included in my early drafts of the design for a long time.

I love the idea and look of pocket doors, but I worry about the sliding mechanism. My closet doors got off track and don't slide well. My sliding glass door is a total pain in the arse to open and close. I just haven't had a good track record (no pun intended) with doors on tracks.

With my luck, something would go horribly wrong with the mechanism and the door would get stuck and require opening up a wall to fix. Plus it intersects where I was thinking of putting a light switch (although, I could still keep the light switch on the load-bearing wall).

Other than the issue with the tracks-- including the possibility that stuff might be able to get in to the recessed area and block it, it was more expensive and required a higher level of skill for installation. I discussed it with my family and ultimately we decided that a traditional door would be the cheapest and easiest way to go.

Currently, the door is pretty much already framed out to about 34.5" wide. one part is almost flush against the load-bearing wall, so I would just need to build it out a couple of inches. Since the wall is currently made of crappy paneling, I could probably add a recessed space for the doorknob so it wouldn't hit the wall and bounce out.

You would like to have the rough opening start at 3" from the other wall to give you room for door trim. You want your opening to be 2" wider than the the door slab so 30" door 32 " rough or 32" door 34" rough.
I would bring yours down to 32" and you get the trim space when done.

On those sliders that don't work, you don't have to take a wall apart.
There is a 1 1/4 x 1/4 trim on each side of the door, remove them on one side and you can remove the door and work on the rollers, usually the problem is just loose screws.

 

[zannej]

You would like to have the rough opening start at 3" from the other wall to give you room for door trim. You want your opening to be 2" wider than the the door slab so 30" door 32 " rough or 32" door 34" rough.
I would bring yours down to 32" and you get the trim space when done.

On those sliders that don't work, you don't have to take a wall apart.
There is a 1 1/4 x 1/4 trim on each side of the door, remove them on one side and you can remove the door and work on the rollers, usually the problem is just loose screws.

I didn't even think about door trim! D'oh! It had crossed my mind what style I would like to get but I didn't plan for it or think about how much space I would need for it. Thank you!

Also, thanks for the info on the sliding door. Was that for fixing things on an exterior slider or on a pocket door?

For just a standard door, I have one or two down at the barn if they can be salvaged. I'll have to see if I can extract them safely and measure them. I also have several hundred board feet of lumber lying around (needs to be planed) so I could build one.

I'm considering something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01719ZC64/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (if I go with 30")

I was confused about the in-swing direction thing so I had to google it. LOL.

I wonder if I can just make my own door trim and have the side closer to the load bearing wall be slimmer... Or I can just suck it up and reframe at a larger size and go with the 32" or 36" door instead. The 36" door for sale has free shipping and is only a few dollars more. Although, keeping it smaller allows me to have a longer murphy table for folding laundry. But I don't think a few inches of table will make that much of a difference.

 

[nealtw]

This what gets people in trouble, they show a pre hung door and the width and height are just the slab and left side from where.


Hand Orientation Left Handed
Item Weight 73 pounds
Overall Height 80.0 inches
Overall Width 30.0 inches
Thickness 1.38 inches

 

[nealtw]

That was for pocket doors the outside sliders are just windows from the open position they can be lifted out and you can get parts for most.

 

[zannej]

This what gets people in trouble, they show a pre hung door and the width and height are just the slab and left side from where.


Hand Orientation Left Handed
Item Weight 73 pounds
Overall Height 80.0 inches
Overall Width 30.0 inches
Thickness 1.38 inches

Maybe it's because I'm a little braindead, but I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

Is it because it includes the doorjamb? (I didn't notice that in the picture the first time and just see it now). Ah, so maybe the door itself is not a full 30" wide?
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What about this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN...rehung-Interior-Door-THDJW137000610/202273376

It shows that the 30" is for the width of the door itself I think. Is that what you were asking about?

 

[nealtw]

At least Home depot didn't say full height. But they both need rough to be 32 x 82 1/2
No it isn't just smaller because the 1 3/8" is just the door, they are just not smart enough to measure it and get it right. That is how the industry talks about doors but the store should be making it clear to the customer.