Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

[zannej]

Thanks so much, Frodo!
One minor revision because of the location of the main line in terms of where it goes out to the septic tank:

Does that look ok?

I think pretty much everything else would be the same.

In the 2nd to last post, that is a 2x 1-1/2 bushing for #6 right? For the 1-1/2" lav drain transitioning to 2"?

Is there a difference between a sanitary cross and a double sanitary tee?
I found this at home depot. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-in-PVC-DWV-All-Hub-Double-Sanitary-Tee-C4835HD3/100343532

Also, would the cross restrict the flow of the water? I want to make sure I don't get clogs. Especially from the toilet. Or would that only be a problem if both toilets were flushing at the same time?

 

[frodo]

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[frodo]

charlotte pipe 3'' double fixture fitting with 2'' vent

 

[zannej]

Ahhh! Ok. Now I get it. I didn't realize the overflow and such would be 1-1/2. I assumed it would be 2" for some reason.

I thought the double tee I found looked too small, but I couldn't seem to find the right one in PVC. I'll have to look for the charlotte one. would that be a 2x3x3? I'm trying to remember the order. top, bottom, middle? Or would it start with 3"?

Found Spears P500 Series PVC DWV Pipe Fitting, Double Fixture Wye, 3" x 2" x 3" x 3" Hub on Amazon. Looks like the image you linked.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ALMRFOQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 (but the 3x2 option instead of the 2x1.5)

Edit: I just remembered that the lavs are currently S-traps-- and one of them has metal pipe. So those will need to be gutted and I'll have to punch holes in walls to fit the pipes. I wonder if I could do it with just busting the wall under the sinks and at the crown/top where I would need to access the attic part. One of the lavs is under a window, so I would have to route the vent around it (or maybe turn the arm at a 45 angle (probably do the same with whole trap) and put it into the wall south of the window and then have the vent up so it won't hit the window). I can look at the seams for the panels to get a general idea of where the studs are.

Trying to come up with my total parts list for the DWV for kitchen, laundry, and bathrooms.
1-1/2 P-trap x3 (for all 3 bathrooms),
1-1/2 adapter thingy to go from the twist-on PVC to the sch40 glued type x4 (bathrooms plus kitchen sink-- maybe have one that goes from 1-1/2 to 2"?)
1-1/2 to 2" s-tees x4? (for all sinks)
Should I have a bushing to increase the size to 2" and have 2" tees or stay 1-1/2 until the tee?
2" to 3" bushings x?
3" combo wyes x?

I just had brain freeze. LOL. I need to figure out the fittings for the washing machine and junk as well. And I need to figure out what sort of hoses to use to hook up the water-- rather than running PVC, I'm thinking of using braided hoses specifically for them and maybe getting little inline filters (and having an access panel for the hoses on the other side of the interior wall) because my water turns my white clothes orange and yellow. I really just need to get the whole house water softener installed. I have one in a shed, but need to find a spot for it in the pump house and figure out how to hook it up.

 

[frodo]

....material list for under the house

 

[frodo]

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[zannej]

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Sadly, AAVs are prohibited here. That is why I need to make plans for proper vents.

and I think the hubs that I marked as 1/8 bends might have been 22.5 bends, but I'm not sure. But, that crap will get pulled out and replaced so it doesn't matter too much what is there now. I did make a note that when I fix the vent for the kitchen sink, I need to use 22.5 bends for the vent going in to and out the wall. I might have to look at the floor there to see if moving the drain in to the wall would be feasible though.

The more I thought about it, I realized that the vents for the tub are supposed to be AFTER the p-traps. So, it is unlikely that those are vented at all. I plan to be opening up walls, so I should be able to access stuff. I hope I won't need to look at things from the opposite side of the wall because the linen closet there has shelves and would be a pain to get into.

Edit: I forgot to mention that the shower/tubs are both right-hand drains. So, my tub has a closet on one side and my mother's has a bedroom wall. I admit that I am tempted to switch Mom's to be a left-hand drain instead. There would still be a closet in between, but at least if we had to take down shelves and tear out walls in the closet, it wouldn't be as much of a pain as trying to not damage bedroom walls and trim and such. Doesn't really matter if the closet looks ugly inside.

It would involve moving the water supply lines for Mom's shower though. I plan to replace her entire fugly avocado green fiberglass one piece shower/tub unit (with cracked tub floor) and eliminate the above-the-floor drain. It will have more support and be easier to access the plumbing if it's below the floor.

The real fun will be figuring out how to vent those fixtures all properly to the exterior of the house. I don't trust anyone around here to cut holes in my roof, so we may have to punch a hole in the wall and route around a soffit on the exterior. Right now the existing venting is a joke.

Looking at the drawing-- I want to make sure I'm clear on it..
1-1/2" vents for the fixtures until they merge to a 2" vent. Vent 90s on the corners. On the 1-1/2 tee-- it's just a regular T shape and not a sanitary tee, right? And the cross would be 1-1/2" to 2"... (with inlets being 1-1/2" while top and bottom are 2").

Do I have that about right?

 

[frodo]

Sorry Zannej, 2 names for the same thing, I used them interchangeably and confused you.

san tee , tee, dwv tee, pvc tee, are expressions used for them.

jut use a regular, pvc dwv tee.

1 1/2 vents on everything except toilets, they are 2''

the cross, would be 1 1/2 on the sides, 2'' in the middle

 

[zannej]

I haven't updated this in forever. There has been a code change this year. Louisiana no longer has it's own state code. It now goes by the 2012 version of IPC. I *think* that means that AAVs are back in-- unless there are local ordinances against it-- but honestly, since the inspector told me I wouldn't need permits to renovate out here, I don't think he would care. Besides, I think AAVs are preferable to S-traps. So, AAVs could be added to the existing fixtures and the new ones could be vented.

I admit that I still have some trouble visualizing things from line drawings. I do better with 3D stuff like sketchup. It's just the way my brain processes stuff.

Anyway, I was reading about drywells and stuff, and I *think* that my washing machine and the rough in for the laundry sink are going to some sort of dry well or french drain. I can't really see where the washing machine attaches because I'd have to climb under the house further to take a closer look, but I do know that the laundry sink drain went the opposite direction of the main sewer line and then embedded in the ground. I should dig around and see where it goes- and measure to see if it is at least 50' from the water well (which I suspect it is not).

To avoid messing up my septic tank, would it be feasible for me to just create some sort of drywell or large french drain just for the washing machine (and maybe water runoff from the roof)? Because my house has sort of an L shape, one of the roof valleys dumps tons of water (and leaves) in a certain spot that has almost formed a pit. See the attached rough sketch of the layout.

Does a dry well or graywater well have to be a certain distance from the water supply well?

I realize I would still have to vent the washing machine, but it might make some of the plumbing a little less of a headache & spare the septic tank from some of the heavy laundry loads.

What do you guys think?

 

[frodo]

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[frodo]

you want a removable top on your barrel's

 

[frodo]

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[zannej]

Thanks, Frodo!
I really do need gutters. One thing I've noticed is that when it rains hard, the water coming from the roof's valley tends to just pour over like a waterfall and I think it goes over a foot out from the roof's edge. I think it would shoot over a gutter. Are there special gutter things for situations like that?
The gutter will help in the other spots at least.

Is there a minimum/maximum size for the holes on the barrels? To clarify, the second barrel on top is open side down and the notch allows for it to be slid upward and off of the pipe, right?

Is there any rule about the distance of the drywell from the water supply well? The direction of the runoff in your sketch is straight toward the water well There is a fence in between the well and the yard and there is also a fence not too far from the outside of the house. I've included a sims3 mockup with some of the stuff labeled. It is not quite accurate, but it shows the general layout.

The terrain going east sort of slopes upward but it slopes down to the north (toward the barn)
I've also included google maps view of part of my yard to show the layout of the barnyard and the house and such.

The ground toward the barn tends to get mushy and muddy when it rains, but the higher ground remains solid.

So, sort of like the drywell in this guide: http://www.instructables.com/id/55-gallon-barrel-dry-well/ ?

Also, could this be used instead of perforated PVC? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOBN24/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[nealtw]

They put a splash guard on the front of the gutter to deflect the water, it's about 3" high by 16" wide

 

[zannej]

They put a splash guard on the front of the gutter to deflect the water, it's about 3" high by 16" wide

So, something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2K27O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[nealtw]

So, something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2K27O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Yeah, like that.

 

[frodo]

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[zannej]

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Thanks, Frodo! Wish I could do something that simple for the laundry water, but I understand why I can't have it just dump straight out-- volume of water all at once would be too high and would contain detergent.

One of these days I need to get a waterproof camera and film how the water pours over the end of that valley on the roof. I swear sometimes it looks like Niagra Falls.

I'm trying to figure where in the yard would benefit the most from the water. And I also need to try to figure out where the waterlines are so I don't intersect them. I know there are lines going down to the barn and workshop. I wish I still had my father's notes of where he put all of the waterlines, but he had a hard drive failure before his death and lost a lot of documents and such.

Perf pipe would be surrounded by rocks (the kind that doesn't have dust and is specifically for such applications) right? Same concept as a French drain in a sense?

I really appreciate the info!

 

[frodo]

maybe this wil help

,,,can you do a simple, plan view a blue print. instead of a cad

like this ?

 

[frodo]

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