Insulating a shed

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paulf615

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So I work out of a 8x10 shed that is framed with 2x4s and its gotten to be pretty messy and with the cold months rolling around and projects not slowing down i want to be able to work during the winter, so I plan on cleaning it out and redoing the inside. The main concern I have is insulation and space. Some walls I want to cover with peg board and my work table will be covering the lower half of another wall so in those spaces I can use a fiberglass insulation. But in all the other spots i want to try to keep as much of the wall cavity as I can for more space so I'm thinking of using a foam board insulation. I'm not too familiar with installing insulation and I was concerned about rats getting into the fiberglass insulation through holes on the outside of the shed. Also how well the heat will hold or what R-rating i should be looking for. Also I'm concerned about the double doors that will most likely be the area for most of the cold air coming in. I don't know where to start or if its even worth it.
 
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beachguy005 said:
What are you planning to use for heating the space?
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Probably a little space heater, haven't really thought of it too much. I probably wouldn't want to spend more than 100 bucks on it so maybe a propane heater. Idk what would be best for the situation though.
 
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Sounds like open framing inside. I don't know what you use the space between the framing for, but i bet it will be better used for insulation. 2x4 framing should fit fiberglass rated for R-11. So that should be your reference point. If you can insulate to a higher R value with something else, then go for it. A key part of keeping the shed warm will be putting up interior walls...drywall, plywood or something else solid. Pegboard is handy, but does little to stop a draft.
 
slownsteady said:
Sounds like open framing inside. I don't know what you use the space between the framing for, but i bet it will be better used for insulation. 2x4 framing should fit fiberglass rated for R-11. So that should be your reference point. If you can insulate to a higher R value with something else, then go for it. A key part of keeping the shed warm will be putting up interior walls...drywall, plywood or something else solid. Pegboard is handy, but does little to stop a draft.
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I did see R-13 rated insulation for 2x4 walls so i could use that. I don't really mind if I loose the voids but I would prefer to keep them to store things sort of set back in the wall or even to make very shallow cabinets but if the insulation is more valuable ill give it up. What about other places like the roof and the doors? I also have a small window about 2'x3' that has a removable plexiglass pane in it, should I cover it for the winter?
 
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T&G wood is gonna have a very low R value. Your best bet is doing whatever you can to stop the draft around the edges. But I haven't found anything that I can highly recommend. The foam strips at HD are okay as long as they stick in place, but they usually don't. V-seal strips are somewhat effective, and a door sweep at the bottom will probably help, but you'll probably have to rig it custom for those doors.
 
slownsteady said:
T&G wood is gonna have a very low R value. Your best bet is doing whatever you can to stop the draft around the edges. But I haven't found anything that I can highly recommend. The foam strips at HD are okay as long as they stick in place, but they usually don't. V-seal strips are somewhat effective, and a door sweep at the bottom will probably help, but you'll probably have to rig it custom for those doors.
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Got it
So what about the roof. Should I use a higher r value. I believe the roof rafters are also made from 2x4s so should I only use r13 or should I use higher?
 
nealtw said:
Do you have ceiling joists or just rafters and what is the heat source.
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Just rafters no joists. I'm not sure what the heating source should be i was thinking a space heater or propane heater but I'm sure you have a better recommendation as what would suffice.
 
Electric baseboard if you have enough power for it. When you insulate the ceiling you want air flow above it. So it would be best to run ceiling joists and insulate that with more than the walls. You will want air flow from the soffets to a vent at the peak.
For the door, like we did when I was a kid, hang an old quilt on the inside.
For the window, get another peice of plexy and make it double thick with a space between.
I would line the placew with something cheap like drywall or a thin fibreboard. I line a garage one time with a 1/8 fibreboard of some type that came painted white. Just some strips of 1x2 and space out the pegboard so it will be usable.
 
The question is how much time are you going to be spending in the space when you'll need the heat on? If you're only going to be out there for short periods of time I wouldn't spend the time and money to insulate it. Just get an IR heater and use that. Even insulated, the space won't hold heat for long after the heater is turned off.
 
beachguy005 said:
The question is how much time are you going to be spending in the space when you'll need the heat on? If you're only going to be out there for short periods of time I wouldn't spend the time and money to insulate it. Just get an IR heater and use that. Even insulated, the space won't hold heat for long after the heater is turned off.
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I would probably use it for long periods on the weekends and for short periods during the weekdays
 
Do you plan on heating it 24-7 thru the winter months or only when you use it? How many hours per day will you use it?

Any type heating that burns will require make up air. If it will only be heated for a few hours at a time insulation is less important than drafts. I would suggest electric heat if the usage is not full time and some type of heater that transmits infrared heat. That type heat will heat what it is pointing at not the building or the air as much.
 
bud16415 said:
Do you plan on heating it 24-7 thru the winter months or only when you use it? How many hours per day will you use it?

Any type heating that burns will require make up air. If it will only be heated for a few hours at a time insulation is less important than drafts. I would suggest electric heat if the usage is not full time and some type of heater that transmits infrared heat. That type heat will heat what it is pointing at not the building or the air as much.
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I would probably rarely use it for the week days but the weekend I might use it for maybe 7 hours a day. The reason I don't want electric heating is the cost and the fact that the shed is powered by one electrical cord from the house. Instead of having my parents pay the electrical bill from those baseboard heaters i would prefer something I could refill with my own money like a propane tank and or gas. I doubt I would need 24 hour heating the only time I would ever do that is for the weekend but that doesn't sound cheap. I guess it would be best to find a way to block the drafts and maybe use a heater that I can turn on when I work and maybe have it just warm up the area I'm working. Also by inferred heating do you mean something like this? View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Repair1444337693.387984.jpg
Can you give me an example of the type of heater you are talking about.
 
Propane will emit a lot of moisture which will migrate to any cool surface, cause tools to rust and be a problem. I'd advise any unvented heat source.
 
oldognewtrick said:
Propane will emit a lot of moisture which will migrate to any cool surface, cause tools to rust and be a problem. I'd advise any unvented heat source.
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Well the one i posted a picture of is vent free and can be run off gas or liquid propane. Will this give off the moisture you talk about.
 
I roofed a new construction house in the winter one time, we didn't have the ridge vent cut in yet. They were running two propane heaters in the house so the tile guys could set tile in the baths. There was an inch of ice on the bottom of the roof deck, the outside temps were below freezing. Will you have a problem, I don't know, just sharing my experience with propane heaters and confined spaces.
 
oldognewtrick said:
I roofed a new construction house in the winter one time, we didn't have the ridge vent cut in yet. They were running two propane heaters in the house so the tile guys could set tile in the baths. There was an inch of ice on the bottom of the roof deck, the outside temps were below freezing. Will you have a problem, I don't know, just sharing my experience with propane heaters and confined spaces.
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I think if it is vented outside it is fine.
The new house had lot's of moisture in the air that was leaking out at the roof and the moisture condences out and freezes, not a surprise as they were tiling on wet morter, using a tile saw and then there was likely wet paint or drywall filler too.
 
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