AdrianeS
Well-Known Member
I found this:
I think I could use it to go from the new PEX to the inlet of the existing tee?
Patching a Large Hole in Plaster Wall
- Thread starter AdrianeS
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Help Support House Repair Talk:
I think I could use it to go from the new PEX to the inlet of the existing tee?
AdrianeS
Well-Known Member
The reason I suggested using the other type of valve is because they go from 1/2" to 1/2" push fitting whereas the other style has 3/8" on one side so I'd need to find another adapter to connect it to the PEX. I called Sharkbite and they said it's okay to use the type I suggested.
The plan I came up with is to cutout the exisiting stop valve and remove the copper that runs up to the tee. I'll install the new valve down low, then run PEX up to the existing tee, and use one of these adapters to attach the PEX to the tee. Is this a good enough plan?
Again, I can't thank you enough for walking me through this!
EDIT: Found these valves on Amazon. They go from also have 1/2 x 1/2 push to connect on both sides so I could use them instead of the lever style. They have good reviews.
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Yes, that system will work, however using this valve; Brass Push Dual Shut-off Valve, for the hot water supply to the sink faucet, AND, the DW, allows you to, INDIVIDUALLY, shut off either, in the event repairs are required.
It, a step in the KISS principle.
AdrianeS
Well-Known Member
Yes, I figured that. I was thinking that if I used that valve I'd have to then buy a new, longer supply line to the faucet and then buy a new Sharkbite tee plus adapters for the supply lines and it was starting to get more complicated and expensive. But I wouldn't have to replace the tee; the shut off valve you posted would essentially take the place of the tee, and I could install it up higher than it is now. I'm sorry, I guess my brain is going to mush over this crash course I've had in plumbing the last couple days!
mabloodhound
Restoration & Renovations
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And to answer your question about male and female threads, it is just like you would imagine....male fittings/threads go into female fittings/threads.
Ron Van
Well-Known Member
The absolute easiest would be to cut (or un-solder) your old valve and just insert the Sharkbite Push to connect valve in it's place. Put the existing copper pipe with all the existing tees and fittings back into the top of the Sharkbite valve. Forget about converting to PEX and then adapting back to your old tee fitting.
But.... If it we me, to make it look cleaner, I would cut (probably I'd un-solder) the valve, add the Push-to-connect Sharkbite valve with the 3/8" fitting and the double one on the hot (for the dishwasher) and get longer stainless steel braided supply lines.
But.... If it we me, to make it look cleaner, I would cut (probably I'd un-solder) the valve, add the Push-to-connect Sharkbite valve with the 3/8" fitting and the double one on the hot (for the dishwasher) and get longer stainless steel braided supply lines.
Ron Van
Well-Known Member
Ron Van
Well-Known Member
Your next question should be...How do I properly cut a copper pipe and prepare it for a Sharkbite (push-to-connect) fitting?
And....
Shouldn't I turn off the water supply before cutting the valve out? How do I do that?
And....
Shouldn't I turn off the water supply before cutting the valve out? How do I do that?
AdrianeS
Well-Known Member
Well I do know how to turn off the main water supply coming into my house. I had to replace the seals and springs in my faucet. That's when I learned the shutoff valves below the sink don't work.
As far as cutting copper pipe, I looked that up and it would appear an autocutter would be the easiest way? Then I'd need to deburr the pipe. Am I missing anything else?
I went out to Home Depot last night and got all the parts for the new P trap. Will probably put them on tomorrow. Wow am I lucky that I've got a 1/4" slope there! I think the length is a little over a foot but this is the best I can do without having to cut into the cast iron pipe.
I'll buy the rest of the parts next week when I get paid. Those Sharkbite valves are pricey!
Can't thank you enough for your help! This saved me some money and I'll get the satisfaction of having done it myself.
Ron Van
Well-Known Member
Excellent!
An AutoCut cutter for 1/2" will work or a Close quarters cutter is cheaper and usable on multiple size tubing. . .in case you want to become a plumber after this!
Yes they are! The most expensive of all fitting types!
The only problem is that your original issue is still there...
AdrianeS
Well-Known Member
Oh yes! The not-to-code outlet box and giant hole in the plaster? I got so carried away with the plumbing issue I "plumb" forgot about that!Excellent!
An AutoCut cutter for 1/2" will work or a Close quarters cutter is cheaper and usable on multiple size tubing. . .in case you want to become a plumber after this!
View attachment 30052
Yes they are! The most expensive of all fitting types!
The only problem is that your original issue is still there...
One last (hopefully) question. Instead of buying the pipe cutter, could I do this with my oscillating tool and a metal cutting blade?
The specific difference between using the RIGID cutter and an abrasive cutter, is the systemic requirement to flush the system after.
You see, the debris can accumulate in the faucet and aireater affecting operation and cleaning.
You see, the debris can accumulate in the faucet and aireater affecting operation and cleaning.
