2 / 15amp Breakers Joined..

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It is a bad breaker. If it is flipping back and forth without the contact pressure it is a mechanical failure inside it. Trip one of the other ones on and off if that one has a free feel compared to the others it is 100% bad IMO.


:beer: Update and Thanks for the Comebacks.. Switched Out the Breaker, All is Good .. Wife is Happy we're back in Business..
 
This explains it. The 2 breakers have a link os if one kicks they both kick.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po2P-TC9gug


Yep.. That's To Code here... Using 14/3 Wire... Considering as mentioned the Brand Name of Panel & Breakers is Now Defunct and Cross Referenced to Eaton Products now.. And the actual true age of Blown Breaker, It just outright popped completely..

@nealtw.. Sorry I'm still learning Tech Savey (Copy / Paste) and all that stuff..lol.. Along that one wall starting from the left is the Fridge on it's own plug, the 2 Plugs about 8' apart (Breaker for them Blew) between them is a 3 level Hood Fan / Light (To No Where)..lol.. In our Quest to Fight Back against Wynn and her Band of Cronnies (Hydro One) we disconnected the Stove Top Incert and now use 2 Salton Brand Induction Touch Screen Hot Plates.. Sorry for the Drivel ..lol.. Hence needed both Hot Plates On, one was plugged into Left Plug other into Right Plug.. Shortly thereafter Breaker Popped.. As I said it must have been time for the Breaker to Give Up..lol.. Cheers Thanks. :beer:
 
Its just a multi wire branch circuit and doesn’t have to be done to the same outlet like the video shows with breaking out the connection tab.

I have never used them as it’s not a big deal in my mind to run two cables but I guess it has it’s place. For the pros a question. When you run one to a kitchen and the first outlet has to be a GFCI how do you handle that? Do you go into a double box and have two GFCI’s in the same Jbox?
 
Its just a multi wire branch circuit and doesn’t have to be done to the same outlet like the video shows with breaking out the connection tab.

I have never used them as it’s not a big deal in my mind to run two cables but I guess it has it’s place. For the pros a question. When you run one to a kitchen and the first outlet has to be a GFCI how do you handle that? Do you go into a double box and have two GFCI’s in the same Jbox?

That's true when you are using the recep. to protect the downstream recep., however in his case the breaker is protecting both the top and bottom recep. and there are the tags indicating the protection exists.

Were it I, I would not have replaced the breaker in kind, and instead employed 2 separate GFCI breakers, which in the future, would afford you continued power, relieving the "immediacy" of the happy wife-happy life syndrome.
 
That's true when you are using the recep. to protect the downstream recep., however in his case the breaker is protecting both the top and bottom recep. and there are the tags indicating the protection exists.

Were it I, I would not have replaced the breaker in kind, and instead employed 2 separate GFCI breakers, which in the future, would afford you continued power, relieving the "immediacy" of the happy wife-happy life syndrome.

So it’s to code to have 2 independent GFI breakers feeding one outlet. I would think that could be a danger as you would see one tripped or trip one to do a repair and the other half would be hot. I thought in all cases the trip handle to both breakers had to be joined. I have seen copper wire joining them but I don’t think that’s to code also.

If I was doing a multi wire branch to a kitchen I would think I would go to a double box first and two GFCI first then to other outlets as required. I don’t think there is a multi wire GFCI outlet but I don’t know.
 
2 independent GFCI will not work with MWBC. You must use a double pole GFCI.

You must remember the OP is from Ontario. We have different rules for kitchen receptacles.
Direct from the ESASAFE site (ontario code authourity)

Question
I understand the Code requires GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) protection of receptacles next to my kitchen sink. Can I install a 15 amp GFCI type receptacle at these outlets?
Answer

No. The Code requires either a 5-15R split (15 amp multi-wire circuit with 15 amp split receptacles) or a 5-20R (20 amp circuit with T-slot) receptacles for kitchen counter outlets. A 15 amp rated GFCI receptacle cannot be installed in compliance with either of these requirements. Code compliant GFCI protection of the split circuit and receptacle option can be achieved by installing a 2 pole 15 amp GFCI circuit breaker at the panelboard. Code compliant GFCI protection for the 20 amp non-split circuit option can be achieved by either installing a 20 amp GFCI circuit breaker at the panelboard or by installing a T-slot GFCI type receptacle at the outlet.

Rules 26-700, 26-712, 26-722.

Ontario Electrical Safety Code 25th Edition/2012.
 
So it’s to code to have 2 independent GFI breakers feeding one outlet. I would think that could be a danger as you would see one tripped or trip one to do a repair and the other half would be hot. I thought in all cases the trip handle to both breakers had to be joined. I have seen copper wire joining them but I don’t think that’s to code also.

True, and while instead of using that method I would have had 2 separate circuits feeding 2 individual banks of receptacles.

With the breaker off, I still use my meter.

However, as JOE D points out, there code takes care of that. I think the practicality is in the initial cost.

The copper wire tie suffices, while not applauded.

If I was doing a multi wire branch to a kitchen I would think I would go to a double box first and two GFCI first then to other outlets as required. I don’t think there is a multi wire GFCI outlet but I don’t know.

Square D offers multi circuit GFCI breakers in both plug in and bolt on, However I imagine the recep. would be too cumbersome.

While I'd caution any DIY from working behind the dead front panel, this one was cautious enough to be successful.
 
While I'd caution any DIY from working behind the dead front panel, this one was cautious enough to be successful.

There are all levels of DIYers and that is something we all have to be careful in giving advice to assure we know the skill level of who we are advising. There are quite a few people coming here that shouldn’t even be changing an outlet and others capable of rewiring a house. Last year I added a 50 amp breaker and ran a service to a dual breaker GFCI panel and on to my hot tub. I didn’t have any concerns doing that as a DIYer / homeowner but there are quite a few I wouldn’t recommend doing it.

Some members you get to know and have an idea they will safely do the job others if you don’t know or cant figure out you just have to do your best and suggest they get some help. You can get electrocuted just as easily at one end of the wire as the other.
 
There are all levels of DIYers and that is something we all have to be careful in giving advice to assure we know the skill level of who we are advising. There are quite a few people coming here that shouldn’t even be changing an outlet and others capable of rewiring a house. Last year I added a 50 amp breaker and ran a service to a dual breaker GFCI panel and on to my hot tub. I didn’t have any concerns doing that as a DIYer / homeowner but there are quite a few I wouldn’t recommend doing it.

Some members you get to know and have an idea they will safely do the job others if you don’t know or cant figure out you just have to do your best and suggest they get some help. You can get electrocuted just as easily at one end of the wire as the other.

So, you wouldn't recommend testing with your tongue, as you would a 9v battery, or consolidating a 19 conductor #4, like threading a shoe lace?

How droll and unimaginative.
 
There are all levels of DIYers and that is something we all have to be careful in giving advice to assure we know the skill level of who we are advising. There are quite a few people coming here that shouldn’t even be changing an outlet and others capable of rewiring a house. Last year I added a 50 amp breaker and ran a service to a dual breaker GFCI panel and on to my hot tub. I didn’t have any concerns doing that as a DIYer / homeowner but there are quite a few I wouldn’t recommend doing it.

Some members you get to know and have an idea they will safely do the job others if you don’t know or cant figure out you just have to do your best and suggest they get some help. You can get electrocuted just as easily at one end of the wire as the other.


:agree: @bud16415.. Absolutely , While I could only Pass On from Related Experience should I catch someone's Query.. I Appreciate The Comebacks to my Own Situations.. Back in the mid 80's we had purchased a home we'd class as a Handyman's Special , it came with a 60 Amp Service.. Longtime Family Friend and Electrical Engineer by Trade got me started and gave me a Book by F.W.Knight.. The objective was to Replace with 200 Amp Service.. He walked me through your Basic Rewire / ReRoot , Stove , Clothes Dryer, and Kitchen ..

Fast Forward to the Millium Times ..lol... Codes & Methods have changed and Management wants me to stay alive so someone can pay the Bills..lol.. Our present home The Panel is Neat & Tidy, it took me all of 14 minutes to swap out the 2 Pole Breaker.. Just unscrewed the 2 pole Breaker from the Bar , Unscrewed the Black & Red Wires.. Placed them in their Respective Slots in New 2 pole Breaker screwing all back in Place.. Existing Wiring was all good..:trophy:
 
How many watts do the hot plates take? that"s been replaced here with 20 gfci on 12 wire

:welcome: The Induction Hot Plates are from Salton Products .. Touch Screen (C' / F') Settings .. 120Volt / 60Hz / 1800Watt... Canadian Tire Regular Price $89.00 ea Cdn... As I mentioned when both Hot Plates are being used they are each plugged into a Separate Plug Receptacle alone..
 
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:welcome: The Induction Hot Plates are from Salton Products .. Touch Screen (C' / F') Settings .. 120Volt / 60Hz / 1800Watt... Canadian Tire Regular Price $89.00 ea Cdn... As I mentioned when both Hot Plates are being used they are each plugged into a Separate Plug Receptacle alone..

One up and one down I hope. I think 1800 watts equall about 15 amps so you are pushing the limit, nothing else plugged into these circuits?
 
Now you see an example of why split wired 15 amp counter receptacles are in the code. You could plug both of them into one receptacle without any problems. Same thing happens with toaster and microwave on the same counter.
 
One up and one down I hope. I think 1800 watts equall about 15 amps so you are pushing the limit, nothing else plugged into these circuits?


10-4.. We figured considering the Maximum Draw from these Hot Plates If & When turned up to their full potential, Best to be plugged in alone.. Just the layout of available Wall Recepticals , cord wouldn't reach from 2nd Hot Plate to Same Wall Receptical when Needed..lol.. (Wall Receptical each side of where Stove Top Incert used tobe)... Cheers Thanks for your Comebacks.. :beer:
 
10-4.. We figured considering the Maximum Draw from these Hot Plates If & When turned up to their full potential, Best to be plugged in alone.. Just the layout of available Wall Recepticals , cord wouldn't reach from 2nd Hot Plate to Same Wall Receptical when Needed..lol.. (Wall Receptical each side of where Stove Top Incert used tobe)... Cheers Thanks for your Comebacks.. :beer:

So you have a stove outlet sitting there?
 
So you have a stove outlet sitting there?

:). There is a Junction Box on the Backwall (under the counter), Wiring from the Stove Top lead to.. The Wire for the Stove Top has been Marretted and Turned Off at the Panel with a "This Stays Off" note over the switch..lol.. We are exploring a few Options / Angles as to make this Estedically Pleasing ... And should we decide to Sell down the road it will be a simple and easy task to install Stove Top back in place..
 
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