Adding a utility Sink

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum' started by ME87, Nov 9, 2011.

  1. Nov 9, 2011 #1

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    I've attached a few pictures explaining what I'd like to do. If someone else has a better method or better idea PLEASE speak up. I'm not really sure where to start on this one.

    Our laundry room is entered from the garage as shown by the door here
    [​IMG]

    There is a laundry drain and water (hot and cold) hookup right behind the washer shown in the above picture and this one
    [​IMG]

    I would like to add a utility sink in the garage right next to the door as shown here
    [​IMG]

    How do I make this happen? I'm not afraid of the drywall work, but how do I properly tap into this water and drain?
     
  2. Nov 9, 2011 #2

    BridgeMan

    BridgeMan

    BridgeMan

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2011
    Messages:
    744
    Likes Received:
    80
    It will be a challenge, especially if both the garage wall and the utility room wall are framed with just 2 x 4s. The sink will require a vent line as well as a drain, so getting everything (vent, drain, and supply lines) to fit inside of a 3-1/2" space without seriously weakening the wall studs will be almost impossible. And there's also electrical runs in both walls, so you'll need to work around that as well. Meaning you will need to "bump-out" both wall thicknesses, possibly by adding supplemental 2 x 2 framing (glued and screwed) to the studs after you've pulled the sheetrock.

    If it were mine, I'd have a few plumbers come in to give a free quote for the work, enabling you to pick their brains regarding what would work best. You might even consider using one of them to plumb everything, with you buttoning things up after, still saving a bunch of money. Your being in AZ means the house is on a concrete slab (right?), which will make the project that much more difficult. Not impossible, just not as easy as being on a crawl space or basement. Take a few pix and post them here, after you've removed the drywall. And practice up your sweat-soldering skills in the meantime if you plan to do all of the plumbing yourself.
     
  3. Nov 9, 2011 #3

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    The house is on a concrete slab and it is post tension concrete, so this means there are steel cables running through it as well. From what I understand in order to drill or cut the slab, it would need to be hit with an x-ray. I may call a plumber as recommended for a few ideas and yes the wall is framed with 2X4's so you're correct. I've looked at a few of the neighbors houses who had utility sinks installed as an option when the house was built. Most of them had dedicated lines and drains run during construction, something the previous owner of our home neglected. My house did come with a finished garage, which is nice, but also isn't so nice since it needs some plumbing and they only installed 1 (ONE!!!!) electrical outlet in the entire garage.
     
  4. Nov 9, 2011 #4

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,897
    Likes Received:
    3,118
    As the washer is sitting a few inches from the wall, why not just run the drain along that wall and into the pipe behind the washer lower than the washer trap. I believe you can run sum distance with out a vent. If you put the sink right behind that wall in the garage you will only be running about 4 ft.
     
  5. Nov 9, 2011 #5

    joecaption

    joecaption

    joecaption

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    Messages:
    2,046
    Likes Received:
    295
    I'd remove the baseboard and that drywall 48 1/2" up from the floor. I think what you will see is you can just run the drain over to the drain you have now and install a sanitary Y in that line low enough to get it to drain. If there's is a vent right in that area for just the washing machine then your good for venting.
    As far as for the supplys I'd use a Shark Grip to tee into the lines behind the washer, run Pex over to two Pex 1/2" stub outs. A stub out looks like a curved piece of copper tubing with a Pex barb on the bottom and a sq. plate attached to the copper tubing so it can be mounted to the studs.
    It's all sold in Lowes or Home Depot.
    I'd install nailing plates where the drain is run.
     
  6. Nov 9, 2011 #6

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    I think I will start by removing the drywall and seeing what I have to work with. Maybe I'll get lucky along the way somehow.
     
  7. Nov 9, 2011 #7

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Certified Lunatic

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    887
    Likes Received:
    0
    I'm not sure of your code requirements but there are some codes that require the washing machine drain to be a dedicated line until it reaches a 3" minimum line in some areas of this country.

    Really the only thing to do is open the wall and see what you have.
     
  8. Nov 9, 2011 #8

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    I can see this conversion now with the wife. Good thing she's supportive of my endeavors and so far they turn out nice.
     
  9. Nov 10, 2011 #9

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Anyone care to enlighten me as to what this is behind the washer?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Nov 10, 2011 #10

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Certified Lunatic

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    887
    Likes Received:
    0
    Might be a cleanout cover... Check it out and let us know...
     
  11. Nov 10, 2011 #11

    joecaption

    joecaption

    joecaption

    Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    Messages:
    2,046
    Likes Received:
    295
    Clean out cover would have been my guess also. Is it directly below where the drain is?
     
  12. Nov 10, 2011 #12

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,897
    Likes Received:
    3,118
    If that's a clean out cover, I want one.
     
  13. Nov 11, 2011 #13

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    It would appear to be a clean out cover?

    and it's about 12 (that's approx 30.5cm for our Canadian brethren above lol) to the right of where the drain is.

    [​IMG]





    Don't be offended I lived in Calgary for a few years so I'm almost part Canuck
     
  14. Nov 11, 2011 #14

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

    Contractor retired

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2010
    Messages:
    23,897
    Likes Received:
    3,118
    We only use metric when we have to. I would open the wall around the clean out so the plumbers can give instuctions.
     
  15. Nov 13, 2011 #15

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    So here is what we've learned

    [​IMG]

    Oh and there has been a change of plans.

    My wife told me I wanted the sink in the laundry room in the corner shown instead of in the garage so I just have to get to the corner with the sink now instead of through a wall. Funny how being married changes things. lol
     
  16. Nov 13, 2011 #16

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Certified Lunatic

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    887
    Likes Received:
    0
    I assume 2" drain all the way into the slab?
    Can't see it in the picture...
     
  17. Nov 13, 2011 #17

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Yes on the drain.

    So at this point it looks pretty straight forward to T into the PEX line, but I'm not sure about the drain and the vent, or even if a vent is necessary.
     
  18. Nov 13, 2011 #18

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Certified Lunatic

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    887
    Likes Received:
    0
    A vent is always necessary.

    At this point you should check your locally used plumbing code to make sure that a 2nd fixture can be added on a 2" washer drain.

    Are you looking at adding the sink to the right or, left of the washer?
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2011
  19. Nov 13, 2011 #19

    ME87

    ME87

    ME87

    Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2011
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    0
    Unfortunately, I'm looking to add it to the left, which I believe is going to make it harder.
     
  20. Nov 13, 2011 #20

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Redwood

    Certified Lunatic

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2009
    Messages:
    887
    Likes Received:
    0
    Not necessarily...

    How far over?
     

Share This Page