adding some kitchen cabinet and counter space...

Discussion in 'General Home Improvement Discussion' started by Christian, Mar 27, 2008.

  1. Mar 27, 2008 #1

    Christian

    Christian

    Christian

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    Hey everyone,

    Just bought my first home...it needs a whole new kitchen really, but for the time being, I want to paint what's there and add some new unfinished cabs and prime and paint to match. Good idea? I also want to see if I can build a "bar" type addition for more counter space next to the fridge (I can't put a base cabinet there b/c of a register that's in the way). And lastly, I need to do something about a kitchen drawer. Help me out!!

    First, please tell me if there are any holes in this idea: I want to buy a pre-made length of counter top, probably like 16-20 in or so, and attach it to the wall. I thought I could maybe just secure a board (2x2 or 2x4 maybe?) to the wall, then attach the countertop to it from underneath (up thru the board into the countertop). To prop it up in the front, I want to find some kind of "decorative post" or something to hold it up (any ideas??), leaving the area underneath the countertop open (perfect spot for a trash can maybe?). they sell patching kits to laminate the sides of the countertop and cover the bare wood. does anyone see any holes in this idea?

    Also, I really need to do something about the kitchen "silverware" drawer. it's old and doesn't have "tracks"...it just sits on wood and it's hard to slide. I really want to add some tracks to make the drawer seem new and easy to slide. I saw some at the store but they attached to the cabinet (excuse my coarse explanation) on the side. There is no "vertical" side wood in the space to the sides of the drawer to mount it. Could I maybe add a board there so I could have a space to mount this? How could I attach it? Would glue be strong enough? Or do they have tracks that could mount to the bottom?

    As you may have guessed, I'm still a rookie! Any tips or tricks anyone has would help!

    Thanks much.

    Christian
     
  2. Mar 27, 2008 #2

    Square Eye

    Square Eye

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    Hmmm... It sounds to me like you already have things figured out.
    If you can attach the extra wood in your drawer cabinet with screws and glue, you'd be better off. The screws will draw the pieces tight and the glue can do it's job much better. Measure up first though, Your opening needs to be an inch wider than the drawer. The tracks need 1/2" on each side.
    There are other alternatives if your drawer is too wide. There are bottom guides (sometimes called Delta Guides), rollers that mount directly in the cabinet for the drawer to glide on and there's old trusty beeswax. Beeswax has been used for centuries to make wood more cooperative :)
     
  3. Mar 28, 2008 #3

    handyguys

    handyguys

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    Sure - Painting cabs is hard to get a nice finish. There is something called cabinet coat designed for this but I have never used it. A professional sprayer will give you the best results. This was discussed on my podcast http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/17/episode-2
    No, not realy. If you WANT a base cabinet you can still do taht and then extend the duct into the toe kick of the cabinet. If its a return its easy, a supply is harder. If you want to go this route contact me and I'll add more details.

    As for the top - You may want to just make the whole thing from scratch if you are up to it. Easiest way is to find some pre-made sections and work your layout based on what you can buy off the shelf. a 2x on the wall is fine if screwed into studs. As for a leg or a post you have a lot of options. Here is one http://www.tablelegs.com/ or you can just make one out of plywood and paint it to match the cabs. (Lots of detail left out, again ask if you want more details on making your own)


    As was said, glue and screws or glue and a few nails to build up to support your new slides. Yes they do make bottom mounted slides as well. Two companies I deal with regularly both have great selections. I would go LeeValley first. Order their catalog today. Great selection of knobs for your wife to pick from! http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/index.aspx?c=
    rockler is also good http://www.rockler.com/
     
  4. Mar 28, 2008 #4

    Christian

    Christian

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    Thanks for all the info.

    for the bar, I planned to buy a 4' pre-made section. I will use the extra to top the small base cabinets I want to install next to the stove. I read that you can cut this with a good hand-saw, and then they sell "patching kits" to cover the unfinished wood where the cuts were made. Was this what you had in mind (by building myself)? I think it would be much more expensive/time consuming to buy unfinished countertop and laminate myself, etc, unless there is a very good reason to do it that way.

    thanks for the suggestion for the leg.

    when you say bottom-mounted drawer slides, do they mount on the horizontal "shelf" of the cabinet and then on the bottom of the drawer? (The ones I saw at the store were bottom mount on the drawer, and then "side mount" on the cabinet...)

    Is the professional sprayer for the cabinet painting something I can do myself? I read you could do it with a brush and it would turn out ok, but I've never done it. Is it expensive to rent a sprayer, and would it be worth it? Is it easy to use?

    Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it.
     
  5. Mar 28, 2008 #5

    guyod

    guyod

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    A sprayer will cost 40+ a day. The problem with a brush is the brush marks. you can use a roller or painting pad if you dont want to rent a sprayer. Is it worth it to rent a sprayer? i guess it depends on how many cabenits and how many grooves you have that a roller will not paint.

    Keep in mind that a sprayer can cause you more problems with its over spray.
     
  6. Mar 28, 2008 #6

    Square Eye

    Square Eye

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    If you remove the doors and lay them down to paint them, the paint will level out better and will look better. The bad thing is, You can only do as many as you have room for at a time.


    Here's a bottom mount drawer guide,
    [​IMG]

    and a roller, It mounts under the drawer, on the back of the frame.
    [​IMG]


    Cut the countertops from the back with a Skilsaw. Use an edge guide if you can. A careful, slow cut without excessive correcting will get you a good cut line. Use a rasp or sandpaper to smooth the edge after the cut.
     
  7. Mar 29, 2008 #7

    triple D

    triple D

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    What is the register? In floor or in wall? If in floor you would be way better off just getting a cabinet and cutting toe kick open for vent extension. If wall type proceed with shelf plan. Good luck.....
     
  8. Mar 30, 2008 #8

    Christian

    Christian

    Christian

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    Yeah...the register is in the wall...I think it would be pretty hard to get an extension for that thing...very old and very big.

    I will definitely take all the cabinets off the wall and lay them out. plenty of room in the garage for that. The cabinets don't have that many grooves...would I be better off just cutting in and then using a roller? What kind of roller would you recommend? (thickness and material probably is important...) The other idea is would it be possible to just use spray paint? (I never thought of that...I don't know if they would sell a kind of paint that will look good...)

    Thanks everyone for all the info! Very helpful!
     
  9. Mar 30, 2008 #9

    Square Eye

    Square Eye

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    Spray paint in a can won't do well..
    The only way to spray the paint on cabinets is to use a powered spray setup.
    If you decide to use a roller, A tight nap or maybe even a foam roller will do best. You need thin coats and it will take several coats. Clean, sand and clean again, then prime first and paint, at least 2 coats. Lightly sand between coats if you use an oil base paint.
     
  10. Apr 4, 2008 #10

    Christian

    Christian

    Christian

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    i think i'm going to try and use a brush and a roller to do the cabinet painting, rather than renting a sprayer. i've never used one and i don't think i want to spend the money right now. plus, there aren't that many grooves or anything on the cheap cabs i'm using: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100495650. hopefully I can just paint around the door with a brush and then use a roller over that. should that work? can I prime with kilz II and get a decent finish?

    i do have a question about these...they feel pretty cheap (especially the drawers) when using them. would it be worthwhile to buy new slides (maybe the nice, self-closing kind) to make them "feel" nicer to the touch? (obviously, i want them to feel nice, but cost me next to nothing...).

    also, a couple of questions about the cleaning and sanding process: 1. what kind (grit) of sandpaper should i use? 2. what is a good product to use for the cleaning process (FYI, i'm not only painting these, but also the cabs that are already in the kitchen)? just spritz on and wipe off i suppose?

    any other tips for this process would be helpful!

    thanks,

    Christian
     
  11. Apr 5, 2008 #11

    Square Eye

    Square Eye

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    Clean them first with a good degreaser then 120-180 grit paper, sanded with the grain should be fine. You won't be able to sand between coats very well with a latex paint so you may be better off to get a good, smooth, clean surface before you start. Then one coat of kilz II and 2 coats of paint should do fine.
    I use wax on the backs of the doors where they close against the cabinets to keep them from sticking and ruining the paint. Make sure the paint is dry before you rub the wax on. It will feel dry to the touch within 6 hours and you can apply it then but it will take days for the paint to cure to a durable finish.
     
  12. Apr 6, 2008 #12

    guyod

    guyod

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    I was in walmart the other day looking for spray paint and they actually had cans that said for painting kitchen cabinets.... thats all i know about that....

    I have never seen the cost of the self closing hinges but i wouldnt be suprised to see an $100 a cabinet price tag.
     
  13. Apr 25, 2008 #13

    ayeshaa

    ayeshaa

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    It is necessary, that a kitchen countertop should be able to withstand constant contact with water. Otherwise cleaning the place would become a difficult job. There are several types of countertops you could use to fit inside the kitchen. You can use stone, laminates, and engineered stone or ceramic tiles. I found some good help at kitchencountertopspot(DOT)com
    do skim through and hope it is of some help to you
    Good luck
     
  14. Apr 28, 2008 #14

    ayeshaa

    ayeshaa

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    It is necessary, that a kitchen countertop should be able to withstand constant contact with water. Otherwise cleaning the place would become a difficult job. There are several types of countertops you could use to fit inside the kitchen. You can use stone, laminates, and engineered stone or ceramic tiles. I found some good help at kitchencountertopspot(DOT)com
    do skim through and hope it is of some help to you
    Good luck
     

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