Bad honeywell valve?

Discussion in 'HVAC' started by skid2964, Jan 8, 2007.

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  1. Feb 20, 2009 #21

    w geeslin

    w geeslin

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    Well, the job is done and it cost me $1.50 for a T15 Torx Tamper Proof Bit to remove the two screws holding the platic cowling on. After we got the housing off, under illuminated magnifcation on the work bench I found a burned and fractured joint on the PCB where the relay coil gets power. I cleaned the joint with alcohol and then reflowed the solder...checked for any other bad joints..found none. Carefully reassembled the PCB to the housing and back onto the valve using the T15 Torx bit....restored power, turned up the thermostat and we were back in business. Wish I done this years ago...would have saved a lot of anxiety and cold nights as well.
     
  2. Feb 21, 2009 #22

    dmwli

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    George, what was the build date on the gas valve? (Four 1/4" high numbers ink-stamped on the bottom edge of the main casting. First two are the year and the last two are week in that year.)
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2009
  3. Mar 8, 2009 #23

    portillos

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    Well, I was able to bring a standard torx bit into work (where we have a model shop) and I had a guy burn a hole in the middle of the bit so that it would fit the screw on the valve housing. I didn't even bother checking hardware stores for the part; it looked too specialized.

    Anyway I pulled the circuit board out and found 4 bad solder joints! 3 on the ignitor connector (probably at least partly from my habit of sticking something in there to get it to fire up) and one on a relay on the opposite end of the pcb. The broken connector joints had pulled the copper rings away from the board, so I had to cut & strip the wires, and hard-wire to an adjacent location on the pcb.

    Put everything back together and it's been working for about 3 weeks now. btw, when the furnace fires up, now there is no loud "click." I think it must have been arcing inside from those intermittent connections. Glad I was able to save some serious money!
     
  4. Apr 10, 2009 #24

    MikeInPDX

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    I've evidently got the same problem. I've got the cover off the valve, but I'm not sure how the PCB can be removed easily. It looks like it's attached to the solenoids below. How did you do it?

    As an FYI, I just used some solvent to clean the contacts and the board (it was extremely dirty) and it seems to be working fine. At least for now. I noticed that the board is supposed to be coated, but the coating is really inconsistent. I'd still like to pull the board out and check the solder connections, but I'm not ready to cause a major gas leak trying to figure it out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2009
  5. Oct 4, 2009 #25

    lgdatsme2

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    We just purchased this unit. It will not ignite. First problem is that it was rigged for LP gas. I am not certain what that entails. It would make sense to me if the gas volume were higher with the Propane, and the spark lower in density. If I have that backwards please enlighten me. Secondly if the conversion WAS made would I need to completely change out the entire structure from feeds to igniter. Need help would appreciate a post.
     
  6. Oct 24, 2009 #26

    jeffjeep

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    Great thread guys and thanks to you all , my Keeprite furnace 12 years old would not stat up yesterday after coming home from work . Found these posts , pulled out board and dropped a little solder on the bad area and now shes back pumping out the BTU's . Wife and kids are warm again
     
  7. Jan 6, 2010 #27

    Leddy

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    The PCB slides out of the housing once the cover is removed and the connections are unplugged. I just removed mine a few minutes ago. This is an awesome site.
     
  8. Mar 27, 2010 #28

    shailupreti

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    Thanks man, this was amazing, in fact I'm riding in the same cab as everyone else. Would love to see the smart valve pics you have talked about. I would want to go for repairing it myself,,,,,please send them at shailupreti@gmail.com
     
  9. Apr 30, 2010 #29

    rogden

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    I had to puzzle a bit to figure out how to remove the circuit board, too. On my SV9500 valve, the board itself does not slide out--the board and the remainder of the attached housing all slide out together. As I am facing the valve with the igniter knob towards me, I push the board and housing away from me toward the furnace. It should easily slide out of the metal supporting frame.

    I couldn't find the tamper resistant T-15 torx screwdriver at Lowes or Home Depot or my local Ace Hardware, but AutoZone had a set of tamper resistant torx bits for $10.

    When I pulled out my circuit board, it was obvious that the four solder connections for the igniter harness were cracked. What I didn't see right away was another failed solder at another spot on the board. Once I re-soldered that fifth one, the furnace lit up like a charm. Makes sense to check all the solder points and touch them up as necessary.

    After 3 days of 55 degrees in the home, this warm air sure feels great! Thanks for the help!
     
  10. Oct 7, 2010 #30

    rcashon

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    Great site and information:
    I also have fought with my valve for over 2 years. I have soldered mine many times. Has anyone found a replacement board? Or has anyone just changed the valve out? If so , did you use the same type or a different valve. I would love to have a schematic on the valve.
     
  11. Oct 27, 2010 #31

    stibbits

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    I have had the same problem on my Comfortmaker gas furnace. After re-soldering the bad connection on the board relay pin, the furnace works good. However, I am sure the problem will re-emerge at some point, but thanks to all who made this repair a possibility. I found a replacement valve on this website: https://keithspecialty.com/k/67-394.htm for $155. If anyone tries it please post your narrative here so I can see if I should replace my valve.
     
  12. Nov 6, 2010 #32

    jimbo_97

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    I too am having the same problem with my pilot not lighting. I tested the electrical wiring. I am getting the 24V into the gas valve and I am getting roughly 20V going out to my ignitor but the ignitor still will not fire up. Is it likely that I still have a problem with the circuit board even though I am getting voltage to the terminals?
     
  13. Nov 8, 2010 #33

    lw39042

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    I too have had problems with my SV9500M for about 3 years. The ignitor just would not heat. I first replaced the ignitor, that worked for a while. I then tied the wires, that worked for a while. I then solder connections on the PCB and that worked for a while. Well this year the wire ties just were not getting the job done. I could move the wires and it would start working but any movement and it quit again. I took the valve apart again and found that the pads for the solenoids were oxidized. You can only see them after removing the PCB assembly. I used a piece of scotch brite and I used a pair of forceps and scrubbed these pads. I also removed the pcb from the plastic housing and also cleaned the 4 fingers that are the contacts for the pads. Reassembled and it works EVERY time. When tying the wires, I was just moving the entire PCB assembly so that the finger contacts would make connection to the pads for the solenoids.
     
  14. Nov 8, 2010 #34

    rcashon

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    jimbo and Iw, I figure you will both see your problems again. I have resoldered my board quite a bit and I finally got it working again. The solder connections and pads are very thin and pull off the main board with hairline cracks. I had to inspect all of them under magnifying glass to finally find the one that pulled up. It starts with the 4 pin connector in the middle of the board. I have wound up hard wire soldering from point to point to resolve some connections. jimbo on yours where you are getting the voltages I would still say you have a trace not making contact. That board was cheaply made. I tried contacting honeywell and they did respond, but always pushed me away to third party vendors to replace the valve. They know its bad but wont take responsibility for it. Oh well...
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2010
  15. Nov 22, 2010 #35

    doninfosys

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    If anyone has the pictures of this Gas Valve, as referenced above, please
    send them to don-mgmt5@sbcglobal.net
     
  16. Nov 23, 2010 #36

    helpme

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    I had the same problem with my 9500M 2682 - igniter wouldnt work on a regular basis with out wiggling the wires. We took it apart and found a cracked solder joint at the relay connection on board. Soldered it up and works fine. Also cleaned contacts for the solinoid coils - they were a little loose so we bent them to make a tighter connection. So far so good!
     
  17. Dec 1, 2010 #37

    ecasares

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    I replaced the ignitor but it still did not lit nor did gas come out. I removed the cover to the smart valve and looked at the circuit board and it had an obvious tiny discolored part and I assumed it was fried. I replaced the smart valve and everything lit up. Furnace turns on , everything works now except the inducer motor would not turn off. I measured the voltage coming from the control module located on the fan to the smart valve and it measured 28 Volts. I assume it should only read 24 volts on a 24 volt system. I guess i will replace the control module and go from there. Tempstar models are a pain. What a waste of money and time. Next time , i will go with Goodman or Payne.
     
  18. Dec 6, 2010 #38

    SteelBlueNJ

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    First remove the wires where they plug into the unit , then uses a T-10 (tamper free Torx allen key) to remove the casing, then disconnect the ground coming from the board, it's on the left next to the gas pressure adjustment screw. I had to use my needle nose to pull the ground off.
    Next you should be able to push or slide the board toward the furnace to get it free.

    [​IMG]
    B]remove the circuit board from the casing[/B][​IMG]
    locate the shorts on the BACK of the board. you may need a magnifying piece to see the hair line fractures on the controller plug joints. The snap plug connection should have been made like the igniter plug connection, with screws fastening it to the board. This supports the solder joints from damage when servicing your furnace.
    white arrow shows the snap plug solder joints that I had to re-solder. The yellow arrow is a solder joint I also had to touch up. I don't know what is was but it looked over heated.

    [​IMG]
    sorry for the shabby pictures, was in a hurry to get my heat back on and used my phone for pictures. To solder this up i used the pen style soldering tool. It was 11 bucks at Auto Zone where I also found the tamper proof Torx bit set also about 10 bucks. Not bad considering the service schmucks wanted 800 to replace the entire valve! I googled the valve after they left loose screws, no new filter and bad feeling about their shotty service call. It was about $300 but located it for half that if I needed to replace the whole thing. Still where he came up with an $800 job is beond me. I had already paid a $75 service call charge and another $70 for them to vacume the rail out and tinker a bit. He ended up bending the piolet suply line and left loose screws and clip on the thermo cuppler. Riduclous if you ask me... for anyone who wants to get screwed, heres their link - A.A. Richards Heating & Cooling, LLC - 1-866-915-HEAT
    [​IMG]
    Anyhow, clean up your board with circuit board cleaner and a q-tip if you like. I also cleaned the contacts on the coil and on the board where they meet. just don't use anything that's not going to dry up of cause a fire. common sense here
     
    mcooke likes this.
  19. Jan 5, 2011 #39

    Tikoman

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    Thanks for all the great info, thats the same problem I had. There was six cracked conections. Took it to work and fixed it. They sure are hard to see.
     
  20. Jan 6, 2011 #40

    SteelBlueNJ

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    Thank you:trophy:
     

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