Can I fix this?
- Thread starter Taneshia D.
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
Welcome.
Well, you have a couple of issues, uneven risers, which to correct would require removal and starting over. However, to repair both would likely require them both to be acid washed, so the repair materials would adhere, and there are likely some thin repair materials, locally available.
Well, you have a couple of issues, uneven risers, which to correct would require removal and starting over. However, to repair both would likely require them both to be acid washed, so the repair materials would adhere, and there are likely some thin repair materials, locally available.
Hello Taneshia,
If you don't mind the look of concrete, perhaps Vinyl Patching Cement would provide a relatively easy repair.
You'd prep as Snoonyb mentioned above to remove all of the moss, mildew and dirt. Then neutralize with a baking soda scrub & rinse. Next comes the patching cement. Be sure to lightly broom it left-ro-right a bit for a no-skid surface.
Deep craters should be built up in layers. Check the package for maximum thickness. You can even use a stick or screwdriver to make lines to give your repair the individual block look. You can dye the powder if you want color.
Instead of patching, you could even get outdoor tiles and mortar to give a new, fresh look of your own design. Use the thinset mortar that adheres the tiles to level things & fill craters.
This won't correct the uneven riser* problem that Snoonyb mentioned, but if that isn't a problem for you...
*Uneven riser means it is not the same height from tread to tread.
Whatever you choose to do, you'll do a great job and have some fun doing it!
Paul
If you don't mind the look of concrete, perhaps Vinyl Patching Cement would provide a relatively easy repair.
You'd prep as Snoonyb mentioned above to remove all of the moss, mildew and dirt. Then neutralize with a baking soda scrub & rinse. Next comes the patching cement. Be sure to lightly broom it left-ro-right a bit for a no-skid surface.
Deep craters should be built up in layers. Check the package for maximum thickness. You can even use a stick or screwdriver to make lines to give your repair the individual block look. You can dye the powder if you want color.
Instead of patching, you could even get outdoor tiles and mortar to give a new, fresh look of your own design. Use the thinset mortar that adheres the tiles to level things & fill craters.
This won't correct the uneven riser* problem that Snoonyb mentioned, but if that isn't a problem for you...
*Uneven riser means it is not the same height from tread to tread.
Whatever you choose to do, you'll do a great job and have some fun doing it!
Paul
slownsteady
Well-Known Member
Hi Taneshia.
It looks like the steps have pulled away from the building. If they're moving, things will probably just crack again. Stabilizing the steps would be the best place to start, but depending on what's underneath, it could be complicated. These steps have been repaired before; you can see the cement patches on the top step. You have to get all that loose debris off before you start to repair. There's no sense getting good cement to stick on a loose surface.
You've got to mortar between the stones before repairing the surface, and the surface needs to be as spotless as possible (that's why the acid wash. Power washing will help, but it's not as good).
And use a bonding primer ( https://www.homedepot.com/s/concrete bonding primer?NCNI-5 ) before you patch the surface.
It looks like the steps have pulled away from the building. If they're moving, things will probably just crack again. Stabilizing the steps would be the best place to start, but depending on what's underneath, it could be complicated. These steps have been repaired before; you can see the cement patches on the top step. You have to get all that loose debris off before you start to repair. There's no sense getting good cement to stick on a loose surface.
You've got to mortar between the stones before repairing the surface, and the surface needs to be as spotless as possible (that's why the acid wash. Power washing will help, but it's not as good).
And use a bonding primer ( https://www.homedepot.com/s/concrete bonding primer?NCNI-5 ) before you patch the surface.
Taneshia D.
Member
Thank you so much!!!!
Taneshia D.
Member
Thank you so much!!!
Taneshia D.
Member
Thank you so much!!!
Taneshia D.
Member
Hi they are not moving but I believe it is unstabled I will send you a picture of what’s under too, it’s molded and rusted I do believe I have to get it redone but I am unsure about what is the name of someone who can repair it, I am new with homeownership
Here is the product I would suggest. It is called rapid set Cement-All and can be found in the big apron and vest stores. On the web page there are some videos to watch that show what it is like to work with. I would as suggested clean it all up and get rid of the stuff not attached and then work at it in smaller sections doing say one step at a time.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rapid-S...pose-Construction-Material-02010055/202188447
If you are looking for a tradesman to do the job most concrete companies will not want to mess around with it as they wont guarantee what is below and will likely tell you it all needs to go and be replaced. You might find a handyman to do it but then you need to find one that understands these products and has the skill set to do a good job. It is something that is DIY friendly and that would be the least expensive way. I know we all don’t have the same skill sets but for the price of one bag of material and a trowel and 5 gallon bucket you can see if you have them.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rapid-S...pose-Construction-Material-02010055/202188447
If you are looking for a tradesman to do the job most concrete companies will not want to mess around with it as they wont guarantee what is below and will likely tell you it all needs to go and be replaced. You might find a handyman to do it but then you need to find one that understands these products and has the skill set to do a good job. It is something that is DIY friendly and that would be the least expensive way. I know we all don’t have the same skill sets but for the price of one bag of material and a trowel and 5 gallon bucket you can see if you have them.
A Decade or so ago, HOME DESPERADO purchased WHITE CAP, and this is a product we used often, for quick turnarounds; https://www.whitecap.com/catalog/Co...d25-vo-repair-mortar-dayton-superior-25067458
While a lot of products offer lengthy dry time, this product, does not, it's walkable in about 30min.
While a lot of products offer lengthy dry time, this product, does not, it's walkable in about 30min.
These won't look as decorative as your block stairs do now, or will when you finish, but something to check out is called "Pre-Cast" or "Precast" steps.
With proper bonding materials and grout, you can tile over the square edge kind with outdoor tile, stone, slate, etc.
(Pre-cast come with rounded noses or square edge noses for tiling.) I like epoxy thinset mortar & grout for outdoors so water won't penetrate, freeze and pop a tile.
Tiling them might be a fun project on a nice, spring day!
Pre-Cast steps usually come in sections:
The length from front-to-back is long for the bottom one, then the one that goes on top is a little shorter front-to-back, etc. until you're at the top step. In the attached photo of someone's steps, you can see what my words are not well explaining.
Or Individual Same-Size plus Risers
There are other pre-cast where you install the risers and then set equal width steps on them. (Photo of the risers is attached)
And:
You can get custom ones with all manner of decorative patterns, finishes, colors & stones. These come from the factory as a unit and are expensive. A crane lifts them into place.
To Note-
Note that porous surfaces, including pre-cast steps, spall if de-icing compounds are used. (I use birdseed and/or sand on all outdoor surfaces instead.)
Also note that they are heavy, so perhaps there is handy-person your know or can find in an ad in the bulletint from your House of Worship.
With proper bonding materials and grout, you can tile over the square edge kind with outdoor tile, stone, slate, etc.
(Pre-cast come with rounded noses or square edge noses for tiling.) I like epoxy thinset mortar & grout for outdoors so water won't penetrate, freeze and pop a tile.
Tiling them might be a fun project on a nice, spring day!
Pre-Cast steps usually come in sections:
The length from front-to-back is long for the bottom one, then the one that goes on top is a little shorter front-to-back, etc. until you're at the top step. In the attached photo of someone's steps, you can see what my words are not well explaining.
Or Individual Same-Size plus Risers
There are other pre-cast where you install the risers and then set equal width steps on them. (Photo of the risers is attached)
And:
You can get custom ones with all manner of decorative patterns, finishes, colors & stones. These come from the factory as a unit and are expensive. A crane lifts them into place.
To Note-
Note that porous surfaces, including pre-cast steps, spall if de-icing compounds are used. (I use birdseed and/or sand on all outdoor surfaces instead.)
Also note that they are heavy, so perhaps there is handy-person your know or can find in an ad in the bulletint from your House of Worship.
Attachments
Last edited:
I had to replace my front concrete steps last year because of spalling. I did seal the new steps with three coats of concrete sealer. Can't hurt, might help.
