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jcorbin121

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I am finishing a basement the family room is 16' 9" wide by 31' long. Any ideas on things I could do to take that 9" out of play as fas as drywalling the ceiling? I have done drywall/tape/mud but am not in love with having a 9" wide strip all the way down one side of the room.

Thanks in advance

John
 
Just like doing ceiling tile etc you can start with a sheet bridging the center line of the room or you can start with a joint at the centerline. Cut your starter sheet down 15” will make the last sheet 24”. Etc. We don’t know how your studs are laid out or what on center you are using. But you want to do a little math and figure out if the strip on that end should be 16” or 24” and cut that and start there and then trim the other sheet at the other end. The cut edges are much easier to deal with in the corners than mid wall.
 
A real drywall supply house will have wider drywall in stock.
 
joecaption said:
A real drywall supply house will have wider drywall in stock.
Click to expand...

4.5' and 5' wide drywall are pretty common for 9' and 10' high ceilings, you won't find it at a big box store, you'll need to go to a drywall supplier. Definitely rent a lift though, a 5x12 sheet of drywall isn't light.

Are your joists running perpendicular to the direction you want to run the sheetrock?
 
Ahhh very good ideas all. Thanks so much. The floor joists are 16" oc and run the 16' 9" width. I was planning on running 12' x 4' sheets but had'nt thought of the 54" sheets.

Thanks!!
 
I don't think I would install it so it's all on one side. Alternate the sheets so it's on one side of the room then on the other.
 
beachguy005 said:
I don't think I would install it so it's all on one side. Alternate the sheets so it's on one side of the room then on the other.
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His concern was getting the 16'9" dimension covered without having a long skinny piece. Going to wider drywall will allow him to do it with 4 sheets across the 16'9" dimension.

ON the 31' dimension he will definitely need to stagger the joints on the butt edges so he doesn't wind up with long seams every 12' or 8' if he goes with 8' wide sheets. I would do it with 2 12's and 1 8' cut down for to 7' assuming all the framing lines up, but he'd have a foot of wiggle room to make sure his butts all wind up on a floor joist. Then for the next row put the 7' piece on the other end of the run and your butt joints won't line up across the ceiling.
 
I hope he has a couple helpers and a wide shallow stair case coming into his basement with a straight shot. Getting 12 footers down in a basement not to mention 12X5 can be quite the project.
 
bud16415 said:
I hope he has a couple helpers and a wide shallow stair case coming into his basement with a straight shot. Getting 12 footers down in a basement not to mention 12X5 can be quite the project.
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No doubt. If you can get them in the benefits of using the larger sheets is fewer seams. Fortunately for me, my basement is a walkout. I have 10' ceilings so I will definitely want the wider sheets when I do my walls. Longer sheets on the walls can usually eliminate butt joints as most rooms are less than 12' before there is an opening for a window or door.
 
I am buying all the drywall from a local drywall supply, they will deliver and carry down for 1$ extra per sheet. The stairwell is 5' wide and about 16' high - Not sure if a 12' will go down the stairs. I HAVE carried 10' x 4' down there as a test and it will go easily. The guy at the drywall supply said an option would be to bring the 12' sheets around the back, where I have 4' x 4' windows, I could then score and gently snap the sheets in half and not break the front side of the paper to get thru the window. What are thoughts about that method?

Thanks for all the replies and advice!

John
:beer:
 
Seen some pros do that but don't think it for the diyer, you have to know all the tricks for handling a split sheet.
I would try to go with a 54" sheets, build a frame out of 2x4s and try fitting it down the stairs.
In new construction, they just pull the whole window, depending on how your window is installed, you can look at that.
 
Snapping the sheets and getting them up will be a nightmare IMO. It is something I would do as a last ditch effort.

My house would have benefited if I had went with 12’ sheets as far as mudding but I went 4x8 because unless you have handled anything that large much it is overwhelming. Taping and doing seams I don’t find that much work so for me 4x8 was big enough for a one man DIY show. Everyone is different though and if you have a couple strong helpers and a lift go for it.
 
Can you pull the sash out of your 4x4 windows? If so, corner to corner it should be able to handle a 54" wide sheet. It should be over 5' wide measuring from corner to corner. A buck a sheet is worth it.
 
@Sparky - With the sliding window side pulled out it's 42" corner to corner - I have been searching for HOW TO on removing the stationary side, but not having much luck. I called the company who installed the windows and they wouldn't just come out and remove the stationary side, even for $$.. I believe the 54" sheet WOULD fit if I could get the stationary side out...I may just have to be satisfied with the 10' sheets

@Nealtw - I looked at pulling the window - it would mean having to take some of the siding off, might still be an option tho

@bud - When you say build a frame out of 2x4, can you expand on that?
 
2 2x4s 12 ft long 2 2x4s 54" long nailed together to make a frame that is 54" x 12 ft and see if that fits down the stairs.
 
You could build the test dummy out of anything you have handy as long as it is 12'x54". And is not so flexible as to fool you when you try it. If you do use 2x, remember that the drywall is a lot thinner, and a tight turn may be determined by just a little thickness.
 
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