Electrical Outlets

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mariOoO

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How many did you guys install and at what height did you put them?
I always feel like I never have enough of them!
 
In a shop or garage it is best to install outlates just above the workbench height. Install more than you need.
 
In one area of the shop, I only have them under the workbench - the mess left by the grinder, drill press, etc does not mix well with electricity.

--Bushytails
 
I highly recommend you sit down with a pad and paper and lay out your garage they way you want it set up, what you want in it ( freezers, tools, work area, workbench,storage and so on). You will find it won't be hard to figure out the placement of your plugs and switches.
 
Usually I go 44" to bottom of box as this will allow for a 36" bench top height and a 6" splash height and allow about 1" clearanced of trim plate to back splash height if flush mounted through drywall or peg board. 50" to center of box or even bottom of box would be good as well.
 
I mostly put it on a different height according to what will be the use of the outlet. So I plan first everything so the electrical outlets won't be that hard to figure out. I always make sure that I have more than the outlets that I need in case of some situation.
 
Don't forgett to put a few outlets in the ceiling. Even though I have 12' ceilings, I put six duplex outlets in the ceiling for drop cord's to drill presses and stuff you add as you go along, as far as the wall's go, I put four outlets per 6x6 pole spaced 8' OC. at 50" off the floor,although Bushytails example of chips in outlets does bring up a very good argument for placing outlets above the work bench.
 
I have a question. My garage has two electrical outlets, above both a sticker is displayed stating, "Outlets on this circuit not rated for appliances". I am wondering what exactly this means; is this common?
 
You either have lightweight circuit breakers or sub-par wiring. Why they did this, I'll never understand. My theory is do it right, or don't do it at all!
 
What it usually means by the newer (around 2003 and up) NEC code, is that these outlets are not dedicated outlets or a single outlet on one circut breaker. Usually, when I used to wire houses, I could put 13 or so devices on one circut breaker and around 10 outlets on one circut breaker. Back then bathroom GFIC's outlets, refridgerators, micorwaves, garbage disposals, and dish washers were wired with one outlet on one circut breaker each. Or dedicated outlets. Usually these were 20 amp outlets.
 
Thanks for clarification MRB! I guess if every plug was dedicated with its own breaker, your sub-panel would need to be about 6' long!
 
Thanks for clarification MRB! I guess if every plug was dedicated with its own breaker, your sub-panel would need to be about 6' long!

Probably larger than that:D

In kitchens now aside from the required dedicated outlets of the past you have to wire in 2 or 3 appliance outlets. The one that really gets me now is that the bedroom outlets have to be on GFIC breakers.
The bedroom thing with the GFIC breaker is absurd to me but it is current NEC code.
 
I just got a bunch of 10 gauge 3 strand wire from a pump change out. Will this meet code for a 30 amp RV outlet. I do plan on putting it in conduit back to my main breaker box.

Would also like to put in a dedicated 20 amp to be used by my air compressor, is this wire over doing it, should I just use #12?
 
Probably larger than that:D

In kitchens now aside from the required dedicated outlets of the past you have to wire in 2 or 3 appliance outlets. The one that really gets me now is that the bedroom outlets have to be on GFIC breakers.
The bedroom thing with the GFIC breaker is absurd to me but it is current NEC code.

So even a GFCI outlet (first outlet from the panel) doesnt cut it?????
 
So even a GFCI outlet (first outlet from the panel) doesnt cut it?????

Yeah it does cut it but for new construction bedrooms have to have GFIC breakers according to the latest NEC code. I mean you can multiple outlets past a GFIC outlet and be safe according to code. The problem with a GFIC breaker in the main panel and outlets with distance past these breakers is just even a small load that usually wouldn't cause a regular breaker to trip will cause a GFIC breaker to trip. It really sucks and isn't necessary for safety. GFIC potection was originally intended for outlets being close to wet conditions.
 
It depends where and what you need them for. I've got an unfinished garage so the wiring is an issue, and to keep it up to code I had a San Jose electrician buddy of mine wire it. Basically, just ran the cables along the framing and closely hugging the studs and ceiling joists; not spanning stud or joist spaces with wires. I've got 4 along 2 horizontal ceiling boards, 2 4ft. up where I have a work station, and 4 along the garage about 6 in up.
 
I've used MC and metal boxes for wireing garages that were unfinished or "bare stud". A bit of commercial wireing overkill but eliminates romex wired to open studs.
 
How many did you guys install and at what height did you put them?
I always feel like I never have enough of them!

I like to run outlets about every 6' along the wall. Closer if you are above a bench. You have to run wire anyways, so extra boxes and outlets are cheap. If you mount your boxes at 4' high, you only have to cut the edge of one sheet of drywall. It's just a little more work compounding around a box on a beveled edge.

Add some outlets in the ceiling and add some up high on a wall. On my garage, I added outlets in the corners, I added an outlet at each garage door for an opener, and I added an outlet up high between my two garage doors for a TV on a shelf, and up high on another wall for a stereo on a shelf.

You also want to run any telephone line, cable for TV, and wires for speakers, before the drywall goes up.
 
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