farmerjohn1324
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Cut the drywall in the center of the stud on the right, measure to the stud on the left, add 3/4" and cut the drywall there, on the bottom insert a piece of at least 1X3 as backing. Screw both the existing and patch piece of drywall to the backing.
You do not need to attach the 1X too the studs, the drywall is rigid enough.
Yes, tape on these and all similar joints.
Using the self-adhesive tape does not eliminate the 1st coat.
A bazooka simplifies the process.
That "box" along with a corner box will speed the process.
Keeping the moisture content of the mud consistent, as well as adjusting to that variation will also help.
There is a learning curve to all speed products.
Here is a link to some of professional tools; http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Automatic-Taping-Tools/
Stilts are a suggestion, though illegal in some locals.
If the pole came with it.
Look at the nfg's site to find replacement blades.
Here, this should help; TOP VALUE- Cinta Tools 10" Drywall Flat Finishing Box
Features exclusive adjustable pressure plate spring allows you to customize the pressure required to operate the flat box. Wheels mounted inside of side plates for true tracking. Durable extruded aluminum body construction and adjustable stainless steel blade provide top quality finish and reliability. Cinta 10" drywall flatbox finisher is ideally suited for base coats on flat seams, butt joints or cornerbead.
Adjustable pressure plate tension spring
Wheels mounted inside of side plates for true tracking.
Durable anodized aluminum body
High quality, top value
Adjustable stainless steel blade
Mfr: Cinta Tools
MPN: CN25
If you feel there is a depression in the tape joint after the 2nd coat you can do a pass on either side of center.
Like I said, there is a learning curve and although the box is recommended for the base coat, trial and error will be the test of you talent.
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