Improper plumbing & trying to remodel bathroom/laundry

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As a complete aside, I found a light I want to get for my kitchen to replace a crappy fluorescent one that burned out above the sink. Found a damp rated hardwired 5k color 1800 lumens 24" LED strip one. I already have a remote switch setup thingy so that can be used to add a light switch for it.
Also, the wood under the sliding glass door looks terrible.
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I can hardly wait to get my pump replaced and water running again. Oh yeah, and in the pic you can see where the old freezer hit the siding on its way out.
 
It doesn’t look like that wood was ever flashed correctly. I wonder if you can cut that wood out with your sawzall and replace it with pressure treated wood.
I plan to have the entire door replaced and will see if I can find professional installers who can do proper flashing and want to use PVC instead of wood in that spot, if possible. I know it will be expensive, but it needs to be done.

I don't think that wood is supporting anything, but am not sure. I think it is some sort of trim, but again, I really don't know. Won't know until I have a pro look at it.
 
Any water that hits that glass will just drop down and get absorbed under the slider. It looks like a half arsed glazing tried on the bottom of the slider when in fact, there should have been silicone and a piece of aluminum edge flashing to protect from water intrusion.
 
Do you have any pics of what it should look like? I know I can look but not sure if what I see will match what you are describing. Pretty sure there was no weather wrap into the doorways or windows. There is about a 2' overhang of the eaves, but the wind here blows the rain sideways in all directions so it hits that door.

I should get up closer and get better pics of under the door and behind that rotted wood.
 
Looks just like what is on the right side of the glass.
 
My brain isn't working. LOL. Can you circle what you're talking about in the picture?

As an aside, I'm tired of the stupid lever for the liquid level switch getting jammed/not responding and am looking in to other options.

Seriously considering this now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D2PYF4W6/
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I'm leaning toward the 1 level control but I'm not sure if "max" triggers a pump down or not. The 01 version of this relay only has 2 levels. The 02 version can be either.
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Any ideas or thoughts?
 
My brain isn't working. LOL. Can you circle what you're talking about in the picture?

As an aside, I'm tired of the stupid lever for the liquid level switch getting jammed/not responding and am looking in to other options.

Seriously considering this now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D2PYF4W6/
View attachment 32865
I'm leaning toward the 1 level control but I'm not sure if "max" triggers a pump down or not. The 01 version of this relay only has 2 levels. The 02 version can be either.
View attachment 32866
Any ideas or thoughts?
This GRL8-02 controller seems like it would work but wouldn't you want to use the two level feature on the controller? the lower sensor starts your pump and fills the cistern until it gets to the higher sensor that shuts the pump off.

Also, I don't remember if you mentioned what size pump you have but a 3/4hp pump would draw 2.3amps continuous (750w * .75 = 562.5 amps; 562.5A / 240volts = 2.3A), however Terry Love says a 3/4hp pump draws 6 to 8amps continuous. That seems high. The controller is rated for 10A, however during start-up the pump could take more amps. It's an inexpensive controller so I say, Give it a try!
 
Z, to save you time and more headaches, walk to nearby houses and ask to see their float set ups?
Seems you are trying to build a better mousetrap and the big question is, why?
 
Because the cats have named the mice, as pets, and they keep stealing the nut-butter-P.
 
Ron, the belt driven pump's specs say it is 1HP 230VAC / 6.1A. Not sure how many watts. But it has 2 hots instead of hot and neutral. It is connected via 10awg wire though and that cheap relay can only fit 12awg. I was asking a question on Amazon and it's AI popped up an answer saying I should look for SPST (single pole single throw) 230VAC 20A contactor. Anyway, that contactor said it would stop pumping at a certain level, but I've ruled that one out due to not being able to fit the wire size.

Havasu, I'm not in walking distance of other houses in my area except for the neighbors 1/4 mile away that are criminals. A lot of the people out here don't want anyone coming over though. I know of maybe three people in the general area who won't shoot someone for coming over. I might talk to the owner of the local hardware store and see what he knows or if he knows anyone who could help out.

My friend is also looking into stuff. He's already asked BigHead (a co-worker) who has a well system, but he has low voltage sump pump style setup.

Still debating whether to use sensors or a float switch. Friend is concerned that sediment might mess up contact sensors. I could try to find non-contact ones and put them inside some pvc pipes or some clear tubing or something. So long as water doesn't touch them and they can detect the levels. I'm wary of the float switches because I've seen that some of them can rupture and I need to make sure they are UL rated for potable water.

I've asked on the DIY chat forums in electrical section. Neal still hangs out on those forums I think. Maybe not in electrical section though.
 
I went and took some measurements where I could locate studs in the current laundry room. Couldn't really check behind the washer & dryer too much. But I do know that the lumber for the room is from 1946 or earlier because the 2x4s are 1-3/4" instead of 1-1/2". One or more of them may end up conflicting with where I want to put a recessed medicine cabinet mirror, but its not a load-bearing wall so I can move them if need be. I know the back door doesn't have a header so I fully expect to find that the windows don't have headers either. There will be a lot of re-framing to do. I've decided to eliminate the idea of a switch for the vanity light over near the vanity and just have the switch on the wall near the triple rocker for the vent/light/heat fixture in the ceiling. I'm hoping there will be enough head-room in the attic to be able to run wire to the vanity light.

My sketchup roughly marking the studs I was able to identify. The middle ones are 16" on center but they are oddly distanced from the side walls. One was 25-3/8" and the other was 21-1/2". There could be other studs that I couldn't identify in the walls-- I went by where the nails were for the panels. On the bright side, it looks like the AAV box will work (will do an AAV for the lavatory-- toilet and tub will use the roof vent). The vent through the roof isn't big enough to have too many fixtures on it.
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I updated the sketchup drawing to have a glass block window. I did not adjust the hole for the window though so it's a little wonky.
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There were no 24"x36" glass block windows in 3dwarehouse and there weren't any glass block windows with hopper windows so I had to make my own block by block. There are six 8"x6" blocks, six 8"x8" blocks, and two 4"x8" blocks plus the 16"x8" hopper. I did borrow textures from an existing glass block model, but I had to edit the textures a bit.
These screenshots were from before I tweaked the textures on the window a bit more.
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Outside view with screen (hard to see the screen texture)
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Inside view with latch
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Obviously its not perfect, but it's close enough. I'd say its not bad for being made from scratch. Measurements are not quite exact, but I'm OK with that.
 
I updated the sketchup drawing to have a glass block window. I did not adjust the hole for the window though so it's a little wonky.
View attachment 32959
There were no 24"x36" glass block windows in 3dwarehouse and there weren't any glass block windows with hopper windows so I had to make my own block by block. There are six 8"x6" blocks, six 8"x8" blocks, and two 4"x8" blocks plus the 16"x8" hopper. I did borrow textures from an existing glass block model, but I had to edit the textures a bit.
These screenshots were from before I tweaked the textures on the window a bit more.
View attachment 32960View attachment 32961
Outside view with screen (hard to see the screen texture)
View attachment 32962
Inside view with latch
View attachment 32963
Obviously its not perfect, but it's close enough. I'd say its not bad for being made from scratch. Measurements are not quite exact, but I'm OK with that.
You are really good with Sketchup! I don't have the patience to do the detail that you do.
 
You are really good with Sketchup! I don't have the patience to do the detail that you do.
I think it harkens back to my days of programming in BASIC where I had to plot things pixel by pixel before I learned you could do them in a line. I once made a box that flashed colors from the center on outward. May seem like nothing now, but I coded it with text. When I started learning graphics by using actual editing programs, I would change the color of things pixel by pixel. I can hyper focus on some things but then have trouble focusing on others.

As an aside, my sister had me do some of the tedious stuff in one of her Final Fantasy games for her because she found it too boring and I liked doing it because I found it relaxing. She was the first one of her friends to get the Golden Chocobo. I did the chocobo catching and breeding and she did the chocobo racing. I also spent 3hrs mugging the same enemy over and over while she took a nap. That probably doesn't make sense if you haven't played those games. LOL.
 

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