Installing drywall over "skewed" studs

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Jan 30, 2023
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Hi, there. This is a DIY project and I am planning to install drywall in our basement laundry. There are a few issues I will be discussing in different forums, and one of them is a couple of
studs "skewed" at the top end, about a foot+
Such that, when a sheetrock is installed, it will not by touching side of this part of the stud completely, but just the prominent edge.
I wanted to see what are my option(s) with regards to this situation?
Well, there are a couple that I've used and one is to, successfully hit the hung drywall with a hammer which will cause the head of the hex-drive to be recessed into the drywall, and another is to replace the screw with a truss-head screw.
one is to, successfully hit the hung drywall with a hammer which will cause the head of the hex-drive to be recessed into the drywall, and another is to replace the screw with a truss-head screw.
Oh, I think you mean the prominent screw? I am sorry for not explaining it in details and keeping it on the image. I am planning to unscrew that, move the pipe half inch away from the wall, insert the drywall in between and then screw again over the drywall. It will be a separate question I will ask as I need to provide more details.
In this specific case I am concerned about this vertical wooden stud. It may not be visible very well, but this stud is "skewed" or twisted such that the left edge is below the other studs front surface and the right edge is above. So if I install a drywall, it will be hitting this right edge and not laying flat. Only the top foot+ is twisted that way.
What you have is a stud with a twist in it and depending on how far it is sticking out and if it will be a stud where one piece of drywall ends and the next starts may or may not be noticeable. Also a basement laundry I might not worry as much as in the middle of a living room wall.

You can remove the stud and put a straight one in or you can shave the area down to flush. I would take my 4” angle grinder with a sanding disk and smooth the top foot or so. Don’t worry about having full contact, just knock off the high spot.
I would replace the stud in order to ensure drywall support.
When we built my nephews home we had a lot of twisted studs he wanted to use. He had a giant pair of channel lock pliers and we would nail one end in and then one of us would twist the stud straight and the other shoot a couple nails in. I used to tell him he would be sleeping some night 20 years in the future and hearing gunshots and it will be those studs he was too cheap to toss snapping.
Thank you everyone. My first thought was to either shave the high spot with a plane (grinder would work much faster and easier though and I was planning to buy a grinder anyway so it may be a good opportunity) or twist the stud. Upon checking, I do not see any horizontal noggins so replacement does not seem too much difficult. If I go this route, I still need to figure out how to remove the old ones. I can only see two locations where it could be nailed: to the top and the bottom plates. If this is correct, what would be the best way to remove the old ones? I think if the top nails are removed, I can tilt the stud and just pull or pry out the lower part up? Does it sound safe to temporarily remove and replace the studs (one by one)?
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If you want to take a stud out just saw it in the middle and then twist, pry and hammer the two pieces out. If the nails stay in the plate and can’t be pulled because the heads are from the other side then just cut them off.

In your case I wouldn’t worry about replacing it just trim it flat.

Harbor Freight has some great 4” grinders that sell for about 10 bucks. They also have a Sawz-all type saw that is really inexpensive and mine has held up to a lot over the 10 years I have had it. I bought it to use on one job and figured I would toss it when it broke after that. It just keeps going. They sell assorted blade packs and for 10 bucks you get 10 blades and they hold up well also.