L flashing used on new roof ok?

Discussion in 'Roofing and Siding' started by willingtolearn, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. Dec 1, 2011 #1

    willingtolearn

    willingtolearn

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    I recently enlarged my existing covered patio. My contractor demoed my existing one. My new patio is 16 x 24. It has a gable roof. I noticed he did not use step flashing. He chalked a line 3in from the roof line and then used a grinder with diamond blade and cut through the hardie plank/board. He then used 2 pieces of L flashing (4 total) and a top piece. He then slid the L flashing up behind the hardie siding. I do have a attic ladder into the roof and I don't see any felt paper under the flashing. There is felt on the roof sheathing though. Obviously I'm not happy with his work. How much more protection would step flashing have been. It seems to me he took the easier route.

    Thanks

    willing
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2011
  2. Dec 1, 2011 #2

    oldognewtrick

    oldognewtrick

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    Welcome to House Repair Talk.

    Could you post a pic of the area you are referring to? Attaching pics is easy, scroll down from the reply box and click on "Manage Attachments".
     
  3. Dec 2, 2011 #3

    willingtolearn

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    I will try to take pics tommorrow.

    Thanks
     
  4. Dec 2, 2011 #4

    willingtolearn

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    Here is some pics. Aside from the top piece looks like he used 2 long pieces. On the right side its caulked with geocel as well as the left. I'm assuming the L flashing must be 6in.

    IMG_0263.JPG

    IMG_0254.JPG

    IMG_0256.JPG

    IMG_0257.JPG

    IMG_0260.JPG
     
  5. Dec 2, 2011 #5

    oldognewtrick

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    At first it looked like a pretty good install till I got to the last couple pics. Shingles should be step flashed in a wall not installed with what looks like track flashing. This will not work. Flashing is a two part equation, you have step flashing on each shingle course then counter flashing that covers the top edge of the step flashing. This really isn't rocket science, they print the instructions on the wrappers of the shingle bundles. If they try and tell you this is the way to flash a wall, tell them they are sadly mistaken.
     
  6. Dec 3, 2011 #6

    nealtw

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    Yes to what Oldog said.
    On a side note. Does your main roof have any soffit vents? I see solid blocking between rafters and there should be a vent in every forth one.
     
  7. Dec 3, 2011 #7

    willingtolearn

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    Yes the soffit has vent holes in everyone.
    What will happen if they leave the track flashing? Should kickout flashing be used also? Also there is no sheathing behind the hardieplank, that is how all the new homes in hawaii are made. A home like this goes just short of a million bucks; ridiculous. Also is no step flashing a building code violation. I was hoping the building inspector could help out.

    Thanks Willing
     
  8. Dec 3, 2011 #8

    oldognewtrick

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    Yes, kick out flashing should be used at the bottom. This keeps water from being channeled behind the siding. I'm not sure what codes require where you live, but shingle MFGs require step flashing. Non compliance to installation specs can void any material warranties.
     
  9. Dec 4, 2011 #9

    JTGP

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    Willingtolearn, What is going to be done to solve this?
     
  10. Dec 4, 2011 #10

    Perry525

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    I suggest you take a walk and look at other homes and check out their flashing, then go on-line and learn how it should have been done.
     
  11. Dec 5, 2011 #11

    willingtolearn

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    I agree with all of you 100%. I'm just trying to figure out a solution. This contractor was highly recomended by a good friend of mine. Turns out this contractor knows people I know.(Thats what happens when you live on an island.) The original contract called for him to build to plan. The plan just calls for flashing, it does not call for what kind. I called and asked him why he didn't use step; his response was it would be real hard to get step inbetween the hardieboard and frame. He said I will not have problems. Yes all the other homes have step flashing and most have kickouts where the roof terminates on a wall.
    If worse comes to be and I call another roofer to do the job right, do they have to tear up the whole roof, or can they just remove the tabs of shingles closest to the wall?
    This has been one very stressful job.
    Thanks
    Willing
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2011
  12. Dec 5, 2011 #12

    oldognewtrick

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    What shingle mfg did you use?
     
  13. Dec 5, 2011 #13

    willingtolearn

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    certainteed.
     
  14. Dec 5, 2011 #14

    inspectorD

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    Bottom line...he is giving you a line of garbage.
    Step flashing is easy to do on that wall. The existing flashing will be used as a counter flashing that covers over the top of the new step flashing you install. Give him the chance to come back and fix the problem, after you explain that " bad press on a small island" is more expensive than them doing the job correctly.
     
  15. Dec 5, 2011 #15

    joecaption

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    Installing Hardee planks need sheathing and Tyvek under it, (Download the install manual on the James Hardee web site) also any cuts he made needed to have the cut areas resealed with latex paint before the caulking took place, exposted cuts will cause the material near the cut to flake off.
    In the last picture it looks like he ended the counter flashing right where there's a butt seam and is counting on the caulking to keep water out.
    I would have continued it out about 1" at least passed the shingles so water would drop into the gutters.
    Hardee board never lays perfectly flat againt the piece below it so without the sheathing and Tyvek under it water and wind can get behind the siding, if anything hits the siding with no support behind it it's going to blow a hole in it.
     
  16. Dec 5, 2011 #16

    willingtolearn

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    Joe caption your right. Also thats not counter flashing, that IS the flashing. Thousands of these half to 1 million homes are made with no sheathing behind the hardie plank, hardie board.

    Also If I do have hire someone else to finish the job correctly, does the whole roof need to come off?

    Willing
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2011
  17. Dec 5, 2011 #17

    oldognewtrick

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    Without being on the roof to say for sure, you SHOULD only have to remove the shingle near the wall from the sofit to the ridge.
     
  18. Dec 6, 2011 #18

    joecaption

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    There's just a few I see that were left short for some reason that may need replacing.
     
  19. Dec 6, 2011 #19

    willingtolearn

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    I talked to him today. He said the reason he did not use step is the tight space and also there is no blocking behind. He used the metal studs as blocking. He said the previous roof had blocking built into the studs as new construction. I told him maybe we can step flash over the continuous using it as blocking. I'm assuming the metal studs are 16 oc. Remember there is no sheathing behind the hardie only studs. He told me he will put kick outs in.

    He's not sure about putting step over continuous. This might be a bad idea also, but I'm willing to try anything. He says he stands behind his work and I can call him even 15 years down the road. He laughed and said maybe not 20 years.

    Willing
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2011
  20. Dec 6, 2011 #20

    oldognewtrick

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    If it was there before, where did it go? Why if blocking was removed was it not replaced?
     

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