Leaking hot water heater - replace hot water out?

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gstout52

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After noticing some water on the floor around my hot water heater recently, I looked more closely at the water lines in and out and saw that the hot water out pipe is completely busted. My guess (not certain, not sure how to become certain) is that the water I see on the floor is from the water dripping through the cracked and corroded solder where the hot water out pipe connects to the water heater out fitting.

Is this something that I can fix by replacing just this fitting, or is it time for a new water heater?
 

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I would try fixing it before I replaced the tank.



You will have to shut the unit down and then shut off water pressure to the unit and then drain off a little pressure down stream .



They sell a Sharkbite water heater connector that has the bottom threads and a Sharkbite fitting to match the copper down pipe. Cut the copper tubing off with a tubing cutter and clean up the cut end. Work the old threaded fitting off and clean up the threads and then install the shark bite per the instructions.



There are videos on line that show the process also.



It looks like most of the gunk on the threads has came from the leak.



This method is much more DIY friendly than shouldering on a new adapter.
 
Thanks for the advice!

It looks like my repair is complete and successful. Beware of letting the fittings get too corroded - I had to get mine off with a reciprocating saw and a cold chisel!
 

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Your water heater is beginning to look a little rough. I'd budget for a new one soon.
 
Your water heater is beginning to look a little rough. I'd budget for a new one soon.
Indeed. My hope was to move in the spring, but then inflation and interest rates almost certainly doomed that plan!
 
Thanks for the advice!

It looks like my repair is complete and successful. Beware of letting the fittings get too corroded - I had to get mine off with a reciprocating saw and a cold chisel!
We moved into our house and the whole place needed a lot of repairs the water heater being one. I was replacing all the plumbing going to PEX and figured I would do a new heater at that time. Her grandfather was over and he said try hooking the old one back up who knows you might get a year out of it. It looked about like yours. Well it ran perfectly for 9 more years. I just replaced it a year ago. The only drawback is I was a lot stronger 9 years ago and it would have been a lot easier getting the new one to the basement. She saw the old one standing in the corner and asked when I was taking it out? I told her it can stay down there forever as much as I care. Maybe some day when I have a couple strong friends over if I remember I will get it out.



Glad to have helped. Looks good.

Good to see you did both sides the new one will be a snap now.
 
While on the subject of water heaters and corrosion, how often do you flush out the sediment from your water heater tank? How much do you take off and how often?

How often should the sacrificial electrode be replaced?

THanks
 
Water heaters are an interesting thing to question as the answer will vary so much.
Do you have hard water so that every time the water is heated a layer of calcium and limestone are added to the hot parts? Think of the inside of a tea kettle if nobody cleaned it?
If you have hard water and don't use a softener, you get lots more limestone buildup in the tank and the heating is often half wasted on heating the limestone before it heats the water, so changing more often can save a fair amount of money on fuel.

Also the heater will weigh about half a ton when you want to remove it!

One way to avoid or at least reduce the wasted fuel and added weight is to drain and flush the tank more often. That's the purpose of the valve at the bottom as it tends to get the stuff that settles more than a higher opening. Stick a hose on it and run it out to some place where it won't burn and kill the grass, etc. Look at the water coming out to see how much junk and minerals are coming out and adjust the flushing to fit what you see on how often to flush it.

On electric water heater, I look at the electrode and see how much is gone to decide if it is time to change. It is there as a metal that erodes quicker to keep the damage from the tank, so the idea is to keep enough there and not let it break off to be stuck in the tank, etc.
Kind of like bait in a mouse trap? You want the bait there to keep it working! Looking ugly is not a factor!

 
It will make the heating element last longer but won't save on fuel as any heat going into the calcium build up can't escape the tank w/o first heating the water.
 
The tea kettle is not a good example being uninsulated it's losing heat as you try to heat it. But you could run an experiment to see if there is a significant time difference.
 
There is little to discuss if you think a water heater is not also losing heat while it is being heated!
I am not interested in running experiments on things which experts have already decided.

I posted three articles from experienced people who say it is true. Do you have any references that say it is not true?

Meanwhile, here are three more references if you care to read them:
https://yellowbluetech.com/2015/01/20/improve-hot-water-heater-performance/
https://www.eemax.com/2015/11/5-ways-to-improve-hot-water-efficiency/
https://www.stanleylouis.com/4-simple-ways-to-improve-gas-water-heater-efficiency/
 
Maybe I can't get you to accept it but it's basic physics. So far no one has been able to overrule the laws of physics although those who sell the Edenpure heaters would have us think so.
 
Those who declare they understand basic physics often miss understanding the basic world we live in.

You seem to avoid the references I've given. Is there a reason for that?

But then, your agrument is not with me but most of the folks who do things
Show a reliable referrence and I will read and consider it!
 
"ll make it simple for you. A kettle on the stove has an open burner under it and no insulation on the kettle and one can feel the heat loss from the burner. An electric water heater has an element inside an insulated tank. The heat from the element cannot escape the tank until it has heated the water. Heat loss through the insulation does occur but not until the water temperature rises above room temperature and penetrates the insulation. At that point a heat loss gradient through the insulation has been established and the outer surface of the water heater remains essentially at a constant temperature (warm to the touch but never hot).

I know nothing about a gas water heater. Do they have a surface inside that has to be descaled for efficient heat, transfer?
 
My two cents on draining a tank. Ether do it from the beginning and do it on a set time period. Or forget about it and take your chances.

If you have an older tank that hasn't been bleed regular and you open the valve there is a good chance it wont seal right and then you are in trouble.

Old tanks IMO let a sleeping dog alone.
 
Or add a pipe cap if the faucet has a washer that has broken down?
Never flip the temp pressure valve as they are not that easy to fix!
 
I am going with Alfred E Newman. It was replaced 5 years ago, 3 years before we bought the house. I will pick up a sacrificial anode before I drain it. It's outside the house (San Diego) in a closet with a drain pan, so I am not worried if I need to cap the drain valve to prevent drips, if it doesn't seal after draining.

Thanks to everyone who sent answers. I didn't mean to start a debate or argument. There seems to be plenty to arguing going on elsewhere in the world.
 
The mention of leaking after the drain valve is opened is a frequent item but it also has a very cheap and easy fix. If there is a leak and you do decide it is not what you want, this cap is easy to screw on the drain.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...qb4u6aDRl2bTJXv7H4hoCAC4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Just make sure to get the type with hose threads, not normal pipe threads!
Of course...hose thread....they have 34 of them at my local HD and my local Ace has 6
 
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