Masonry Drill Bits - Application and Lifespan

[Tumbleweed]

I expect there is a wide quality range for masonry drill bits. Some brands are listed as carbide, others as carbide tipped, some as carbide hammer bits.
As a homeowner - and not a tradesmen, I will be drilling four or six holes into CMU blocks (probably cement filled when the block wall was built) to install anchor inserts for attaching a trellis to the wall. Later on I need to drill into some recently lay'd driveway pavers for a gate cane bolt.
1. Is the basic carbide tipped bits a suitable and decent choice ?
2. Should I be adding water in the hole to lubricate the drill tip or are these a dry-cut item ?
3. Should I expect these 'generic' bits to last for a few future endeavors, or are they intended as a use-and-discard item ?
Appreciate all helpful feedback,

 

[Snoonyb]

I expect there is a wide quality range for masonry drill bits. Some brands are listed as carbide, others as carbide tipped, some as carbide hammer bits.
As a homeowner - and not a tradesmen, I will be drilling four or six holes into CMU blocks (probably cement filled when the block wall was built) to install anchor inserts for attaching a trellis to the wall. Later on I need to drill into some recently lay'd driveway pavers for a gate cane bolt.
1. Is the basic carbide tipped bits a suitable and decent choice ?
2. Should I be adding water in the hole to lubricate the drill tip or are these a dry-cut item ?
3. Should I expect these 'generic' bits to last for a few future endeavors, or are they intended as a use-and-discard item ?
Appreciate all helpful feedback,

Most CMU, garden and property line defining walls, are only solid grouted were, by design, vertical rebar occurs and the BOND BEAM. So, if you can, drill on the mastic ends and in the center of the block, or you'll likely hit a void and require and anchoring device.

LINKS; TYPICAL SIZES AND SHAPES OF CONCRETE MASONRY UNITS - NCMA
https://www.buildingincalifornia.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/CMUBlockWallDetail.pdf

Rent a hammer drill and the appropriate masonry bit.

For the cane bolt I drill to the depth, insert a drinking straw, close my eyes, and blow. KISS PRINCIPAL!

A shop-vac also works.

 

[Tumbleweed]

OK, I have learned a lot about CMU block walls thanks to Snoonyb.

Going back to my questions for masonry drill bits;
1. Is the basic carbide tipped bits a suitable and decent choice for drilling a limited number of holes ?
2. Should I be adding water in the hole to lubricate the drill tip or are these a dry-cut item ?
3. Should I expect these 'generic' bits to last for a few future endeavors, or are they intended as a use-and-discard item ?

Remember, I'm not trying to break into the trades, just doing two one-off project here at my home.
Appreciate all helpful feedback,

 

[Snoonyb]

Most masonry bits are for multiple, over time, use, and they can be sharpened.

Water is not needed, and the use of can create another time consuming process.

"For the cane bolt I drill to the depth, insert a drinking straw, close my eyes, and blow. KISS PRINCIPAL!

A shop-vac also works."

 

[Tumbleweed]

Most masonry bits are for multiple, over time, use, and they can be sharpened.

Water is not needed, and the use of can create another time consuming process.

"For the cane bolt I drill to the depth, insert a drinking straw, close my eyes, and blow. KISS PRINCIPAL!

A shop-vac also works."

I appreciate the information on the masonry bits. For clearing out the cane bolt hole, I used a length of 1/4" vinyl Drip Line tubing. I found it worked great and can be stored with the masonry bit for future use.

 

[Snoonyb]

A rinse will prevent coughing and choking, on the 1st breath.

 

[PJB12]

Job One: Eye, Hearing and Lung Protection!!

The blocks will drill easily. The pavers, not so much easy.
Hammer-Drill & carbide tipped drill bit is far faster than rotation only- especially on the paving bricks.
Go slowly and use moderate pressure. If a large hole, water helps keep the silica dust under control.
The tip for hammer-drilling should be carbide or diamond. A steel tip will mushroom quickly on the paving bricks.
For a glossy surface, like ceramic tile, start in Rotation Only Mode until through the glazing, Then switch to Hammer Drill Mode. The tip won't wander & the glaze won't spider-web

If you don't think you will drill much masonry, perhaps you will prefer to rent a SDS+ drill & bits instead of buying drills you won't use again.

Hint:
Unlike metal, in masonry don't drill a small pilot hole and step up in size. Bits bind. Always!

Hint 2:
A drill sharpener that does masonry bits will be handy. Drill Doctor makes a couple of models that make it take less than 30 seconds to touch up a masonry drill. I use the XP & a 500X on the job sites.

Carbide masonry drills are really carbide tipped only. (There are pure carbide drills, boring bars & end and face mills, but not for this use.)
Look for tips that are brazed on instead of glued. (You'll see gold or bronze color under the tip.)
Bosch makes very good bits. Hilti are also good, but more money.

I Hope This Helps & Doesn't Add Confusion!
Paul
PS:
These are just my opinions. Other people do things differently.
I worked industrial electrical for many decades, so a bunch of holes were drilled or cored every day- in block, concrete, water cured concrete, retort materials.