Mobile home floor sag beam size?

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
SpartanEpoxies
House Repair Talk

Help Support House Repair Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Gary said:
It looks like Neal is talking about nailing 2 -2''x's together, not a lam beam.
Click to expand...
Same for LVLs. I have bolted one LVL beam together and it was a four ply 19"x 22 ft. He wanted it bolted because the load would only be landing on 2 on one side.
 
Sparky617 said:
The bigger the beam the wider spacing you can have on your posts.
Click to expand...

Well since that's out of the way, thanks everyone for there help and input,

How could I go about removing some dirt from under there?.
I'm looking at about 1,100 cu/ft.

I wonder.how.hard a conveyor system would cost to build.
 
You said you already had 5', how much more do you need?
 
Snoonyb said:
You said you already had 5', how much more do you need?
Click to expand...

5 ft. In most of the space. But about 40' of dirt 2' high was left on one end.

I'd like to have it all flat and use a 12mm Polly to make the area a dry space for worrie free storage
 
Thanks.

The general rule for excavating in the area of a foundation is 1:1, 1' deep, 1' away, or a 45 degree angle away from the top of the foundation.

Here on the truly left coast, we'd raise the house, excavate, form and pour, wait 28days, set the posts and header, then drop the house.

Concrete doesn't reach full compressive strength until 28days dry.
 
Snoonyb said:
Thanks.

The general rule for excavating in the area of a foundation is 1:1, 1' deep, 1' away, or a 45 degree angle away from the top of the foundation.

Here on the truly left coast, we'd raise the house, excavate, form and pour, wait 28days, set the posts and header, then drop the house.

Concrete doesn't reach full compressive strength until 28days dry.
Click to expand...

I would love to do this but I don't have 15,000$ to put in the house.
 
When I was a lot younger, and a lot thinner, it was my job to be the "topos" IE, groundhog. I got to excavate when we were doing what your project is, raising and leveling post and girder raised foundation dwellings, only we had usually 12" to work in, so the excavation amounted to enough space to squeeze under a 6" girder, and a pocket for a 5ton bottle jack.
 
Snoonyb said:
When I was a lot younger, and a lot thinner, it was my job to be the "topos" IE, groundhog. I got to excavate when we were doing what your project is, raising and leveling post and girder raised foundation dwellings, only we had usually 12" to work in, so the excavation amounted to enough space to squeeze under a 6" girder, and a pocket for a 5ton bottle jack.
Click to expand...

feel like popping over for a beer? il get some pizza too
 
Thanks guys.
Turned out I can just call a struss company. There engineer did all the math for me and said I would good with tripple 2x10's posts at 10' intervals.

Thanks for all the input.
 
UlyssesSign said:
By supporting the floor joists down the center of the building,
3 ply 2x10 by 65'
Click to expand...
It sags over years and you can't expect to lift that up quickly. You put some pressure up and increase the height over days and sometimes weeks until the floor is level.
Lifting and leveling is different than just supporting in place.
And we had not discussed that earlier.
 
UlyssesSign said:
By supporting the floor joists down the center of the building,
3 ply 2x10 by 65'
Click to expand...

In the example I provided earlier, we were under contract, and it wasn't a time and material contract.

3 to 5 bottle jacks were set and the house was lifted until the door molding miters were closed and the doors the hadn't been altered fit. The miters were the criteria.

Doors that had been altered were squared, hinged and filled, or replaced in kind.

The 4x4 post under the girder were replaced, the jacks and blocks were pulled and we were paid.

All in a days work.

Your case will be slightly different.

Complete you excavation, form and pour your pads, set your anchors.

Here begin your options; House movers use cribbing, jacks and beams to lift a house. You can build a simple series of platforms to support you header material during assembly, just keep in mind you do not want any joints within 4' of each other, use blocking to raise the assembled header into place, then use jacks and 4x4 post to raise and level the floor, then set the 4x6 or 6x6.

The 4x4's are sacrificial.
 
Snoonyb said:
In the example I provided earlier, we were under contract, and it wasn't a time and material contract.

3 to 5 bottle jacks were set and the house was lifted until the door molding miters were closed and the doors the hadn't been altered fit. The miters were the criteria.

Doors that had been altered were squared, hinged and filled, or replaced in kind.

The 4x4 post under the girder were replaced, the jacks and blocks were pulled and we were paid.

All in a days work.

Your case will be slightly different.

Complete you excavation, form and pour your pads, set your anchors.

Here begin your options; House movers use cribbing, jacks and beams to lift a house. You can build a simple series of platforms to support you header material during assembly, just keep in mind you do not want any joints within 4' of each other, use blocking to raise the assembled header into place, then use jacks and 4x4 post to raise and level the floor, then set the 4x6 or 6x6.

The 4x4's are sacrificial.
Click to expand...
Our engineers want all beam joints are over the post with Simpson straps tying them together and to the post.
 
nealtw said:
It sags over years and you can't expect to lift that up quickly. You put some pressure up and increase the height over days and sometimes weeks until the floor is level.
Lifting and leveling is different than just supporting in place.
And we had not discussed that earlier.
Click to expand...
What he said.........:thbup:
 
nealtw said:
It sags over years and you can't expect to lift that up quickly. You put some pressure up and increase the height over days and sometimes weeks until the floor is level.
Lifting and leveling is different than just supporting in place.
And we had not discussed that earlier.
Click to expand...

O ic what your getting at now.
The question seemed a little retorical.
I plan on slowly raising the floor the required amount over time.
I'm just going to snug it up then crank it up a couple turns on the jacks and wait a week or so.

The beam is more to take the bounce out of the floor rather then risk of the floor caving in.
 
UlyssesSign said:
O ic what your getting at now.
The question seemed a little retorical.
I plan on slowly raising the floor the required amount over time.
I'm just going to snug it up then crank it up a couple turns on the jacks and wait a week or so.

The beam is more to take the bounce out of the floor rather then risk of the floor caving in.
Click to expand...
Go to fast and you can lift an outside wall, it's not like lifting a center beam in a rancher.:trophy:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top