Mold between kitchen and bathrrom

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shan2themax

shan2themax

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So, I got a better pic of the drywall situation. I put my endoscope in the wall trying to see how far I could see mold and how high up it went. However..... that thing is hard to wrangle in there lol.
Anyways, this pic is from my phone, I stuck it in the hole and took a pic. From what I could discern, it goes up about 2 feet (although very sparing after about 12 inches) and is about 5.5 feet into the length of the kitchen. I emptied all the cabinets out and my daughter is going to move everything that I boxed up into my moms old room.


The question.... would it be safe for me to remove the drywall myself? I know I would need to wear an N95 and goggles and a suit if I can find one big enough for my rump (lol), and I can buy one of those zippered plastic wall things and put fans in the window.

The part I'm very unsure of is the floor. The underneath has been sprayed with bactronix professionally. Can I get buy with doing the same thing with RMR-141? The bottle say non-porous but the website says it can be used on wood.
I will have to pull up vinyl roll linoleum (not glued down) and Luan that I put down 14ish years ago. I was thinking that if the wood had any integrity, I could put that black roofing paper down over top of the old once it was treated and dried, and then put 1/2 plywood or maybe OSB down (I know OSB isn't a great choice for the kitchen).

What would you do? Truthfully? I don't care to pay someone to do it if that is absolutely best, however if they are just going to do what I mentioned then why pay them for that?

I should add that the leak was fixed about 6 years ago. So the mold has been there that long.


Also..... should i mist vinegar on what i can get to? Or leave it undisturbed?
20230227_184337.jpg
 
If it is dry, I'd leave it unless you need to replace the other walls drywall.
 
havasu said:
If it is dry, I'd leave it unless you need to replace the other walls drywall.
Click to expand...
It is dry, the other side of this wall is cabinets, which is also dry. In beginning of 2021, I replaced my sink base cabinet and could see mold on the kitchen side then, I cleaned what I could get to off with an appropriate medium, and then I painted over that area. I couldn't get to all of it because the cabinets where in front of it.
 
I wonder if you can just spray killz in there somehow. LOL. I'm not sure what I'd do in this situation. If you can reach any of the mold to take a swab you can find out what kind it is and then see if it is a dangerous type or something that is safe for you to remove.
 
Well, that wall has to go bye bye and then you figure out from there what is going on. The mold didn't stop at a certain point, it is all the way up the wall if it's been 6 years. You'll see when you remove the bathroom wall how much of the other wall you have to remove.

When you have nothing but studs left with a little mold, you can spray peroxide on it and wipe it off, spray peroxide again and let it dry.

Then the fun part of drywall, which everybody seems to hate.
 
Probably would be good to replace it with mold resistant sheets if you can find any.
 
@zannej Didn't know that was a thing lol


The mold is on the kitchen wall, shower is on the moldy side.

The flooring in the kitchen has been treated on the underneath part, but I am clueless as to what it looks like under the linoleum.... if I remember correctly I put the black paper down either between the original floor and Luan or Luan and roll linoleum. I am going to pull up the dining room end and see what I can see as far as that.

I need to get cabinet prices, and then decide if I am going to try to remedy it myself or what.

I am afraid of being screwed over by a contractor again.... I think that's where the mental block is coming from.
 
It's perfectly understandable. If you've been burned once you don't want to repeat the mistake.

This is mold resistant: USG Sheetrock Brand 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. UltraLight Mold Tough Drywall 14302111708 - The Home Depot

and so is this: Gold Bond PURPLE XP 1/2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Mold-Resistant Moisture-Resistant Drywall Sheet 50001464 - The Home Depot

The purple is also water resistant. It's what my friend put up in his laundry room.

Were you able to find a Barton's Home Store (sometimes just called Home Store) in your area? Used to be called Surplus Warehouse. They have those oak cabinets I mentioned. They may run a bit higher than big box store crap, but they are worth it. https://www.homeoutlet.com/product/unfinished-oak-cabinets
 
Because the estimate did not include the flooring, it was all covered up by cabinets and linoleum and luann. And $3k already. So it has been treated, and in the morning it will be re addressed. The floor felt solid, which was a surprise to me.
 
Oh boy, you got taken advantage of bigtime. All the flooring has to go as well as all the drywall. They should be under investigation by the Attorney General if they recommended paying $$$$ for spraying instead of replacing drywall at $18 a sheet or something like that.
 
Spicoli43 said:
Oh boy, you got taken advantage of bigtime. All the flooring has to go as well as all the drywall. They should be under investigation by the Attorney General if they recommended paying $$$$ for spraying instead of replacing drywall at $18 a sheet or something like that.
Click to expand...
Drywall is gone, possibly removing 2 more feet on living room wall tomorrow. Estimate tomorrow for removal of flooring now that it can be seen.
 
Oh, the first pic Red part is the Shower / Tub?

That you are keeping?
 
Yikes! Looks like you had a major moisture leak - for years - from the adjoining bath / shower. Did you check the studs, floor plates and subfloor as well to make sure they are not infected with rot? Poke the wood with a knife or screwdriver, and see if it is soft. If so, the rotted pieces must be replaced. You don't need to tear out and replace an entire stud; cut off the rotted piece with a multitool, then attach a new piece of 2x4 to the side of the stud with screws. I would be most concerned about the floor plate, however - which may need to be completely replaced, and this would be some work.

I would also prioritize fixing the source of the problem, in the bath. The walls and floor pan should be completely waterproof, which is easy with modern materials, e.g. Schluter under tile and KBRS. See, for example: Shower Waterproofing Materials | KBRS
 
@BvilleBound those.pics were of the floor wet after spraying it down. The leak was fixed 6+ years ago.

new pics this morning with it dry. The floor is in great shape, i had put luan down years ago when i put new cheap base cabinets down, because i didnt want to try to get all the glue up off the floor. Turns out that saved my butt this time.

yesterday the floor was sprayed again after a lot of the glue was chipped up. There was only about 10 square INCHES that were bad. They poked at both the inside and in the crawl space.

I forgot to take pics of the entire kitchen before I reattached all the plumbing this morning, but here is where we are.... now, to decide colors, flooring, cabinets 🤔🫣

Total cost $2800

20230407_124940.jpg20230408_172847.jpg20230408_172854.jpg
 
It looks much better dry. My bathroom floor looked very similar with the stuff stuck to the surface like that after water leaked under the linoleum. I hope you can find some good cabinets that are good quality but not too expensive.
 
I forgot to mention that in the meantime you might want to get some Killz and roll it on all over to get rid of any stains/mold/odors.
 
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