vyacheslav
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Greetings,
I recently upgraded the outlets on my kitchen counter to GFCI outlets from standard, as they are near the sink and code requirement. It is the older "rope" style wiring with no grounding wire. I hooked up everything correctly as far as I know (see below). It's a double outlet box (a new plastic one, got rid of the old metal one) with 2 GFCI's next to each other. There is a third outlet down the line with newer Romex (with a ground) that feeds a standard outlet (non-GFCI). The standard outlet is for the refrigerator, so I purposely ran that line to it's own dedicated power so that regardless of the GFCI being tripped or not, the refrigerator would always have power. From the main power coming from the older wiring, it is feeding the jumper wire to the GFCI and the newer Romex feeding the refrigerator outlet (3 black wires nutted together and three white wires nutted together). I had to use a jumper wire to feed the GFCI because I moved the location of the outlet box about 10 inches and the original wiring wasn't long enough and was anchored down behind the kitchen cabinets, so I couldn't move it.
The GFCI's have the green light to show power, and blink red every 45 seconds or so to show that they are self-testing. The outlet for the refrigerator is in the original metal wall box, so I took a grounding wire and connected one to the outlet and to back of the metal box. When I use my outlet tester (with the three lights to show if it's correct, Hot/Neutral reversed etc.) on the two GFCI's, it reads "Open Ground", which makes sense because there isn't a grounding wire. When I test the refrigerator outlet, it reads "Correct". When I press the "short" button on the tester to make the GFCI's trip, it doesn't trip them, but different lights light up that say "HOT/NEU REVERSED". I only get this reading when I try to press the "short" button on the tester. When I let go of the "short" button, the reading returns to "Open Ground". I am able to trip and reset the GFCI's manually by pressing the buttons on the outlets with no issues. They are functioning correctly, when I trip GFCI # 1, it shuts off both # 1 and #2. When I trip # 2, it shuts off #2; #1 is unaffected.
The paper instructions/manual that came with the GFCI's said that if they are lighting up green and are able to be tripped/reset that they are correctly wired and functioning normally. When pressing the "short" button on the tester has no effect (except for giving me a different reading), is it because there is no ground wire? I am sure I have everything hooked up correctly at the source; otherwise I wouldn't be getting a "Correct" reading on the refrigerator outlet, which is feeing from the same main line as the GFCI's. I also know that I double checked my GFCI connections, and Hot (Black) and Neutral (White) are in the correct positions, and I have used the "Line" area for GFCI #1 (incoming power) and I have fed from the "Load" area to feed GFCI #2, which I have going to "Line" on GFCI #2. And again, the GFCI's wouldn't be lit green and be able to be tripped manually if there were something wrong.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks,
V
I recently upgraded the outlets on my kitchen counter to GFCI outlets from standard, as they are near the sink and code requirement. It is the older "rope" style wiring with no grounding wire. I hooked up everything correctly as far as I know (see below). It's a double outlet box (a new plastic one, got rid of the old metal one) with 2 GFCI's next to each other. There is a third outlet down the line with newer Romex (with a ground) that feeds a standard outlet (non-GFCI). The standard outlet is for the refrigerator, so I purposely ran that line to it's own dedicated power so that regardless of the GFCI being tripped or not, the refrigerator would always have power. From the main power coming from the older wiring, it is feeding the jumper wire to the GFCI and the newer Romex feeding the refrigerator outlet (3 black wires nutted together and three white wires nutted together). I had to use a jumper wire to feed the GFCI because I moved the location of the outlet box about 10 inches and the original wiring wasn't long enough and was anchored down behind the kitchen cabinets, so I couldn't move it.
The GFCI's have the green light to show power, and blink red every 45 seconds or so to show that they are self-testing. The outlet for the refrigerator is in the original metal wall box, so I took a grounding wire and connected one to the outlet and to back of the metal box. When I use my outlet tester (with the three lights to show if it's correct, Hot/Neutral reversed etc.) on the two GFCI's, it reads "Open Ground", which makes sense because there isn't a grounding wire. When I test the refrigerator outlet, it reads "Correct". When I press the "short" button on the tester to make the GFCI's trip, it doesn't trip them, but different lights light up that say "HOT/NEU REVERSED". I only get this reading when I try to press the "short" button on the tester. When I let go of the "short" button, the reading returns to "Open Ground". I am able to trip and reset the GFCI's manually by pressing the buttons on the outlets with no issues. They are functioning correctly, when I trip GFCI # 1, it shuts off both # 1 and #2. When I trip # 2, it shuts off #2; #1 is unaffected.
The paper instructions/manual that came with the GFCI's said that if they are lighting up green and are able to be tripped/reset that they are correctly wired and functioning normally. When pressing the "short" button on the tester has no effect (except for giving me a different reading), is it because there is no ground wire? I am sure I have everything hooked up correctly at the source; otherwise I wouldn't be getting a "Correct" reading on the refrigerator outlet, which is feeing from the same main line as the GFCI's. I also know that I double checked my GFCI connections, and Hot (Black) and Neutral (White) are in the correct positions, and I have used the "Line" area for GFCI #1 (incoming power) and I have fed from the "Load" area to feed GFCI #2, which I have going to "Line" on GFCI #2. And again, the GFCI's wouldn't be lit green and be able to be tripped manually if there were something wrong.
Anyone have any advice?
Thanks,
V
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