Cutting the cable is not going to happen.
the liquid-tite is bonded to the cabinet only because it is physically connected. I used a seperate ground wire to bond the mounting ring, the junction box and conduit, the cabinet and ground.
Pool Light will not stay on
- Thread starter Zomalaja
- Start date
Help Support House Repair Talk:
Cutting the cable is not going to happen.
the liquid-tite is bonded to the cabinet only because it is physically connected. I used a seperate ground wire to bond the mounting ring, the junction box and conduit, the cabinet and ground.
nealtw
Contractor retired
So does the lamp come with 50 cord attached to it?
That's unfortunate, because it's the way you'll separate the areas of the possible conductor damage.
nealtw
Contractor retired
Just found this, a self testing breaker. If the breaker trips it may be finding a fault in the breaker.
http://www.geindustrial.com/product...ound-fault-circuit-interrupter-self-test-gfci
http://www.geindustrial.com/product...ound-fault-circuit-interrupter-self-test-gfci
Yes it does. If I remember correctly they tell you never ever cut the cord except to make it shorter, use a separate wire to bond all grounded parts. Their actual spec calls for a #8 ground, the problem is that the hole in the ring that you are supposed to pass the wire through before tightening the compression screw is only big enough for a #14 wire and since it is plastered (white cement) in it would be quite impractical to try to enlarge it (Drain pool, build some scaffolding, chip out the ring, enlarge hole, plaster ring back and fill pool).
Dry it can only be energized for a minute or so. A 300W bulb sealed in a space scarcely larger than itself gets very hot very fast. Pool lights depend on the pool water for cooling.
Is that not the same as what I have ? Mine has a white button marked "TEST" that instantly trips the breaker when pressed.
looks like this one
Last edited by a moderator:
nealtw
Contractor retired
All I know by reading that is this thing trips, no hint of ground fault, overload or bad breaker and no explanation how to sort it out.
So, following "their" advice, it would be almost impossible for the liquid-tite to have, unbeknownst to you, been internally fractured, adversely affecting the conductors when pulled through? REALLY!
That's what wirenuts or kerney nuts are for.
The reason the manufacturer does not want the user to cut the cable is at least partially because the lamp may need to be changed. When you pull out enough cable to get the fixture in a place to change the bulb, the end could get submerged. The liquidtite run from the JBox to the panel is around 24" and almost all of the cable and ground was pushed through effortlessly. No marks or cuts are on the cable so I would say it is extremely unlikely that a fracture occurred right at the last few feet of feeding. I think it is much more likely that the second breaker I got is defective, which I was going to test today. Unfortunately my 4Runner decided that yesterday evening was a good time for the fan idler pulley bearing(s) to partially disintegrate and lock up. Just to make it fun, when I removed the bad idler, it took all the tension off the valve timing belt and both camshafts moved. Pretty much all day and still not 100% done. I did learn thanks to you that what I always called "split bolts" have a trade name. Oh, and I had to stop work for a few hours because a house barely 500 feet from me caught fire, nasty smoke.
Last edited:
Well I guess 1 out of 6or7 ain't bad/
When I pull a pool fixture to change the lamp I attach a #14 to the ground conductor, seal the cord end and pull the fixture, change the lamp and reinstall the fixture. With very little moisture intrusion and if any a little time with a heat gun cures that.
Depending upon your area there may be aftermarket breaker wholesalers/retailers who have the equipment to load test the breaker, if not, here is a resource; http://www.thebluebook.com
If the breaker is not found to be defective, there are very few test you can perform without removing the lamp from the fixture.
Are you up for them?
When I pull a pool fixture to change the lamp I attach a #14 to the ground conductor, seal the cord end and pull the fixture, change the lamp and reinstall the fixture. With very little moisture intrusion and if any a little time with a heat gun cures that.
Depending upon your area there may be aftermarket breaker wholesalers/retailers who have the equipment to load test the breaker, if not, here is a resource; http://www.thebluebook.com
If the breaker is not found to be defective, there are very few test you can perform without removing the lamp from the fixture.
Are you up for them?
Yes, certainly.
H
havasu
Guest
I understand every case is different but I recently had a problem with my 20 amp GFI breaker going to the pool light. It kept tripping but after hours of diagnosing, we found a break in the common (white) that was touching metal flex on a leg closeby. It had nothing to do with the pool light, but since it was in my backyard, it was all tied together.
Did I win the booby prize ? :beer:
