Putting drywall for the garage

Discussion in 'General Home Improvement Discussion' started by tractng, Jan 8, 2012.

  1. Jan 8, 2012 #1

    tractng

    tractng

    tractng

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    Just bought 1/2" drywall sheets for my garage project. I have a simple question. My back wall has two vents near the bottom of the wall. When there is a heavy rain my garage would get some water. The back of the garage has a slope so over the years dirt slided down (elevation of the slope is higher than my garage). I plan to dig holes around the area where the vents are and put gravel.

    For the drywall, my plan is to put plastic underlayment on that wall before I put up the drywall. Any drawback as to my method?

    Btw, I am in socal.

    TIA,
    tntrac
     
  2. Jan 9, 2012 #2

    BridgeMan

    BridgeMan

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    You have our deepest sympathy (for being in socal)--I visited there a few times, but vowed to never do it again. Too many fruits and nuts.

    But to answer your question, you should consider fixing the exterior landscaping to minimize the chance of water getting into the garage. Such things as adding downspout extensions, sloping the lot more positively away from the building, and even adding a layer of bentonite or heavy plastic under the topsoil come to mind. Simply adding a layer of plastic on the interior walls may keep the garage a bit drier, but it will almost guaranty that you will have future mold and rot problems inside of the walls. Not fun, or cheap, to fix later.

    You also might want to check with your local building department--many local codes require a minimum drywall thickness of 5/8" in a garage (for sure in ceiling and common wall) as a fire-stop measure. You are getting a building permit, right?
     
  3. Jan 19, 2012 #3

    tractng

    tractng

    tractng

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    Thanks for your advice. My garage is detached so 1/2" is ok :)
     
  4. Jan 21, 2012 #4

    joecaption

    joecaption

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    Any moisture and your spending money for nothing.
    How about some pictures inside and outside.
    Trying to figure out why there's vents there.
    At a min. it needs 5/8 on the ceiling.
    Is all your wiring and insulation already done?
     
  5. Jan 22, 2012 #5

    tractng

    tractng

    tractng

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    I will get pictures tomorrow. Wiring is almost done :). No insulation. I am not doing drywall on the ceiling. I visited a few neighbors and they only covered up the wall.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2012
  6. Jan 29, 2012 #6

    tractng

    tractng

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    Finally had a chance to get the pictures. It rained early in the week plus I was really busy at work.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Jan 31, 2012 #7

    joecaption

    joecaption

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    Ok I see a picture of a pump sprayer and two hoses and nothing else.
    At least 50% of heating lost is through the ceiling, also it's againt code to have exposted paper faced insulation.
    The ceiling is always hung first then the walls. The walls help hold up the outside edges of the ceiling drywall.
    Your going about this a** backwards.
     
  8. Jan 31, 2012 #8

    nealtw

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    The only reason you do not have a mold and rot problem now is because this area is allowed to dry out after getting wet. Adding drywall before fixing the water problem is, as said before a waiste of time and money. If the ceiling joists are 24" on center 1/2" drywall will sag.
     
  9. Jan 31, 2012 #9

    tractng

    tractng

    tractng

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    Guys,

    i am not doing the ceiling. I don't care for the ceiling plus the way the ceiling is setup, I don't have enough rafters going across. Many homes here have drywall on walls only not on ceiling for their garage. This house is built in 1956. I am going to do the drywall for just the wall. I am going to fix the water issue first, but looking for suggestion.
     
  10. Jan 31, 2012 #10

    joecaption

    joecaption

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    Not willing to do it right then I'm sure some first time posters will be along to help you with this.
     
  11. Jan 31, 2012 #11

    nealtw

    nealtw

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    You should have 6 " of concrete showing at the bottom of the stucco and the land should slope away from the building. The vents could be closed up waterproof unless you plan on working inside with engines running.
     

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